Highest Mileage S-type
#181
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Lifeson Fan (02-01-2022)
#182
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I have a 2003 S-type 3.0 with 82000 miles. I have the lurch I had the reflash and additive added.Ssome help but it's still there. The TSB for the steering wheel noise twice. Water pump and belts and tenchener. door/trunk lock's . Ac/heating issues that turned out to be the evap temp sensor after a week in the shop, and telling them to check that first. Shifter not going in gear TSB was out for it. Rear diff. bushings for thump in rear TSB for that. Still have rear end noise around 40 MPH. drive side rear wheel bearing. Cloonat tank had a crack in it. Power steering line leak. Trans output seal leak. I think also the valve body replace. Trans pan leak. A rattle coming form the front dash that has never been found. Adj. paddles stopped working 7 months ago, and not counting the issues I had when I got in my accident the wheels and front/rear subframe and control arms and shocks and some body parts. That are the problems I had so far with my car.
#183
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150,000 on mine, got it at 118,000
Had the lurch caused by a leak on a vacuum line. Got a bit of hose the right size off of a beemer from the scrappy for free.
Hunted at 30-40 on slight uphill gradients, reconditioned torque converter fixed that.
Bloody oil leak from camcover, new gaskets fixed that.
Had to replace the bushes, most of them tbh, bit of a job but made a huge difference.
Done the plugs and had to replace one coil.
Had a gearbox oil change in the early days of the lurch trying to fix it, it didnt touch it.
The Sills need a little welding unfortunately, a man is coming tomorrow to see how much needs to be done.
Other than that, she drives beautifully
Had the lurch caused by a leak on a vacuum line. Got a bit of hose the right size off of a beemer from the scrappy for free.
Hunted at 30-40 on slight uphill gradients, reconditioned torque converter fixed that.
Bloody oil leak from camcover, new gaskets fixed that.
Had to replace the bushes, most of them tbh, bit of a job but made a huge difference.
Done the plugs and had to replace one coil.
Had a gearbox oil change in the early days of the lurch trying to fix it, it didnt touch it.
The Sills need a little welding unfortunately, a man is coming tomorrow to see how much needs to be done.
Other than that, she drives beautifully
#184
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I am currently sitting at 305,000 km (189,500 Miles). Most of the issues with the car have been what you would expect of a car approaching 20 years old. For example the boot (trunk?) seal recently started to leak. The only thing that really hurt me, which was a gift of the previous owner, was that he had ignored a leak in the automatic transmission. I realised the fluid level was very low shortly after I bought the car at 186,000 km, but by then the damage was done. A transmission rebuild did a good job of fixing the problem, and also of emptying my bank account.
Speaking of lots of miles on the clock, I recently added up. I have three cars and between them they are 112 years old! And then if you count my three boats, they have clocked up 163 years between them. I am not a collector, I just keep using things I like, but where did that time go?
Speaking of lots of miles on the clock, I recently added up. I have three cars and between them they are 112 years old! And then if you count my three boats, they have clocked up 163 years between them. I am not a collector, I just keep using things I like, but where did that time go?
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S-Type Owner (11-30-2023)
#185
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I have 3 s types. The one with the highest miles is a 4.0 2002 v8 with 229000 miles/370000kms. All three have original engine and transmission. They do get pushed pretty hard yet run very well. The only major repair I’ve done is the rear subframe on the 02 after a drunk lady t-boned the rear left tire. S types are tanks and don’t cost that much to keep running if you’re handy with a wrench and are kid gloves with the paint.
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S-Type Owner (12-19-2023)
#186
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![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/1120x2000/img_20231128_142740480_cbd737c095f9a29fbb4dfe88ec5799ec50d247e6.jpg)
2003 s type r
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/1120x2000/img_20231202_161825104_b287da944c168b60415982d90e151c87a36e0592.jpg)
Starting reassemble
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/1120x2000/img_20231121_130709863_a69d994ed8a667984d672d3fc77a739c14c5ff4b.jpg)
Engine is back together , fresh
#187
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Mine is an S Type 2006 2.7 Diesel SE. It now has 177,000 miles. It runs like a dream as if it were new. And since I hear and read about lots of complaints and horror stoeies - let me say what I did recently for those that do not wish to read the rest. I did a compression test and it proved that compressin of all cylenders are in speck and very close to equal to each other which is perhaps the most important.
I am a retired engineer and this proves that if I continue to use Premium fuel and oil and filters, this engine will not die anytime soon and is likely to last 300K miles with ease.
How many miles an engine lasts is geared to the level of periodic maintenace which it receives. Primium Diesel !! and High Quality lubricants (engine oil) that is recommeded for DPF cars must be used. All periodic cosumption parts including brake pads (unless you want to end up replacing the disks) (and overheating the pad and overheating the hydrolic oil too which incidentally is what clogs the brake pipes) and the coolat, etc must be in conformance with speck ALL OFTHE TIME - which are not cheap to keep up with. I also replace the gearbox sump with built in filter and the oil including the diff oil every 50K miles.
Besides this the level of non conformance in after sales by some garages is also well know. So I read for example, one owner said, my cambelts LASTED 120K miles. So it seems that some do not even change he belts on time. Belts have an MTBF which is mean time before failure rate. So you are exceeding the MTBF by 20K miles and risking engie damage.
I replaced my cambelts at the recomeded 100K miles and not just the belts but everything that was recomened including the tensioners, some bolts that are recommended for replacemet , water pump, the lot includig the belt at the rear of the engine which drives the diesel pressure pump and it tensioner. Again not cheap but similar to what it costs to replace on my Merc E320.
AND who is going to do the job is just as important. We all heard of mechanics that did not even fit the oil filter correctly or compromised and used a similar one or whatever and ended up with serious engine damage after a few thousand miles.
And what about who owns these S Type Jaguars or Mercedes E class or BMW. These Second hand cars are often bought by people who do not realise that the Total Cost of Ownership TCO (Cost of Asset + Cost to keep it going) of these big cars is much higher. Suffice to say that to replace the tyres 204/55/18 and keep to Cotinental costed me over Euros 1000. And is this not the reason why these larger cars have a huge depreciation rate compared to smaller cars and why they become affordable for many that crave to drive a Jag or a Merc.
My advice is that if you are going to buy one of these larger cars (any make) make sure that it has a FULL service history. Take it to a garage which you can trust and that is known to be dependabe and seek their advice abut any rust issues too.
So assuming that all past maintenance was done professionally and on time, and any rust issues treated on time too; you need to continue to do the same. Suffice to say that one tiny rust spot which is neglected and left untreated will spread exponentially over 10 years and it could render the car beyond econmical repair if it reaches the A or B pillars.
I am a retired engineer and this proves that if I continue to use Premium fuel and oil and filters, this engine will not die anytime soon and is likely to last 300K miles with ease.
How many miles an engine lasts is geared to the level of periodic maintenace which it receives. Primium Diesel !! and High Quality lubricants (engine oil) that is recommeded for DPF cars must be used. All periodic cosumption parts including brake pads (unless you want to end up replacing the disks) (and overheating the pad and overheating the hydrolic oil too which incidentally is what clogs the brake pipes) and the coolat, etc must be in conformance with speck ALL OFTHE TIME - which are not cheap to keep up with. I also replace the gearbox sump with built in filter and the oil including the diff oil every 50K miles.
Besides this the level of non conformance in after sales by some garages is also well know. So I read for example, one owner said, my cambelts LASTED 120K miles. So it seems that some do not even change he belts on time. Belts have an MTBF which is mean time before failure rate. So you are exceeding the MTBF by 20K miles and risking engie damage.
I replaced my cambelts at the recomeded 100K miles and not just the belts but everything that was recomened including the tensioners, some bolts that are recommended for replacemet , water pump, the lot includig the belt at the rear of the engine which drives the diesel pressure pump and it tensioner. Again not cheap but similar to what it costs to replace on my Merc E320.
AND who is going to do the job is just as important. We all heard of mechanics that did not even fit the oil filter correctly or compromised and used a similar one or whatever and ended up with serious engine damage after a few thousand miles.
And what about who owns these S Type Jaguars or Mercedes E class or BMW. These Second hand cars are often bought by people who do not realise that the Total Cost of Ownership TCO (Cost of Asset + Cost to keep it going) of these big cars is much higher. Suffice to say that to replace the tyres 204/55/18 and keep to Cotinental costed me over Euros 1000. And is this not the reason why these larger cars have a huge depreciation rate compared to smaller cars and why they become affordable for many that crave to drive a Jag or a Merc.
My advice is that if you are going to buy one of these larger cars (any make) make sure that it has a FULL service history. Take it to a garage which you can trust and that is known to be dependabe and seek their advice abut any rust issues too.
So assuming that all past maintenance was done professionally and on time, and any rust issues treated on time too; you need to continue to do the same. Suffice to say that one tiny rust spot which is neglected and left untreated will spread exponentially over 10 years and it could render the car beyond econmical repair if it reaches the A or B pillars.
Last edited by JMBH; 08-18-2024 at 03:09 AM.
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