Hi again,

While working on the Jaguar I went out to take a look under the hood and noticed the latch came all the way out and that there was no click. I pulled on the cord and it came out more and so indicates that it came loose under the hood on drivers side latch 1.

Can someone take a look at the latch and see if I need to push or pull on a level ( perhaps a hook or rod from the grill) to get it unlatched? I see some guys on an older Jaguar figuring out how to release the switch and can see it pretty clearly but I'm not entirely sure where to push or pull. A simple snapshot of the latch and then "push that tab" toward the wheel well will suffice. I hope to get a visual on the moving part or if anyone has advice from experience here. I'm currently working on another issue and my correct solenoid will show up today and can't wait to clear the codes and get emissions but I'm doubly stuck while still new! I need to feel this cat purr with the fully functional VVT timing and no codes asap and don't want to take the "jaws of life" to the front end in desperation

 

See if these help:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-cable-175675/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-s-type-65618/

 

Thanks, it helps. Unfortunately JagV8 had my same issue but more luck getting the mesh grill off and a line still attached.

I thought someone would say to push the lever the wire pulls but maybe it doesn't work that way? I'll go out and try it with a hanger.

 

I have the passenger side done and now need to do the drivers side but it looks like the switch is reversed and I will need to push vs pull and it could be tricky with leverage. There is a spring so I put as much pressure as possible on it but it just came off and didn't trip anything. The wire is clearly detached and I may have to go through the grill and buy a new one if all else fails after a couple of days.

 

Have a look at the photos and comments below. The problem with the STR front grille is that the mesh only allows small objects to slide through. I used the smallest electrical connector strip I could find and cut it out of its insulation with a bent nail and stiff 240 volt electrical wire I had in the garage.
If you want to avoid future breaks of the cast alloy cable ends, don't do what I did and leave the bonnet catches covered in old grease and grime. Then the cable will then definitely have its work cut out for it and break on the cast alloy ends.
Probably re-grease with dry lube.
Stiff electrical cable with smallest size electrical connector strip and a bent nail. Can try and fit the nail head in the connector depending on the nail.

Clean the bonnet catches.

The one on the right is open and the one on the left is closed but I don't think all bonnet catches were the same. The end of the cable usually sits in the hole on the bottom. If its broken and fallen out the hole will be free to latch something on to. So you need to hook that hole or around the hole on the bottom and pull.

 

Great pictures and explanation. This one hits the nail on the head for me with the exception of some minor changes to the mechanism. Our spring is on the other side and so pulling is near impossible now...

We're in!

 

I made a tool from 1/8" steel rod. Very strong. Short right angle on the end. Push or pull, no problem.

 

Thanks for the info. I opened my LHS catch going throung the grill within 10 secs. The cable between the catches had snapped at the end. Now I have a ss rod between them that works well.

 

Not a bad idea, grandhaze. I like the SS cable.
Not as easy to poke through the STR grille.

 

Actually a length of ss welding rod so very strong and cheap and wont corrode .... I might paint it black one day....

 

I am curious. Why do you have a set of lights blocking the airflow to your radiator?
Is it an ex-police car?

 

The led lights are there because standard lights are not adequate and because easy to mount and work well. Not a lot of choice to mount extra lights. I put them in 5 years ago and the temp needle has not moved any higher. Yes I agree the temp gauges are designed not to move unless significant temp changes occur. Most of the air flow gets through under the grill. No its not ex police. I recall some much earlier jag models used to have larger round lights mounted in the grill.

 

Ah interesting. Worth bearing in mind. I was thinking of putting modern canbus led bulbs in my existing lights. But if that doesn't cut the mustard, I may consider your mod.

 

They were removed when Jaguar changed the front and had to move some of the radiators (because they would not fit or get enough air cooling) to where the lights used to be. You don't want to be obstructing air flow!

 

Look great and work well. Them halogens seem so yellow next to them. Even our 2yo Grandson agrees!

 

Interesting that you have no leaper but a flat hood badge?
.
.
.

 

In Australia, like several other markets the 'Leaper' was not available, probably due to some stupid design rule we have here in this nanny country.
Many have been retrofitted here.
The stupid design rule makers here didn't of course have any issue with the Rolls Royce Spirit Of Ecstasy (pre pop down)..

 

Yes no leaper ... most likely because too many pedestrians were at risk of being injured like the risk issues with pop up headlights and bullbars and metal grills and glass headlights.... ADR are changed regularly to minimise harm which I agree with after years of building cars in UK and Aust and then working in rehabilitation services.

 

Goldfinger was released December, 1964. Hub "spinners" banned 1966 in the US. I guess it was a compliment to the film. Leapers later... though I can't think of a film association. Pink Panther?

 

And today the S Type cranks over fine and does not start for the first time in 10 years. I lifted the bonnet and found rat evidence... half eaten baits and bite marks in the front radiator hose and wiring. I have replaced one half chewed wire but guessing that a control wire that tells fuel / ignition to come on is bitten through... Any ideas where to look?