Hot air right, and cold air passenger side..
#1
Hot air right, and cold air passenger side..
Jaguar 2005 S ype 3.o
Hi,'I just changed the DCCV valve, ($85 @ Part Train instead of $ 393 @ Jaguar dealer!).
1. However still blowing hot / cold. Tried setting on high, pressing auto several seconds.. etc...
Any suggestion welcome.
I read that the thermostat should be changed, is it a big thing to do? would it help?
Could it be sensors which are broken?
2. Also, how important is it to use "universal coolant" instead of Jaguar's: is this a short or long term problem? Should I change it again, I drove 11 miles with it with universal coolant, what can be damaged.
Thanks...
Hi,'I just changed the DCCV valve, ($85 @ Part Train instead of $ 393 @ Jaguar dealer!).
1. However still blowing hot / cold. Tried setting on high, pressing auto several seconds.. etc...
Any suggestion welcome.
I read that the thermostat should be changed, is it a big thing to do? would it help?
Could it be sensors which are broken?
2. Also, how important is it to use "universal coolant" instead of Jaguar's: is this a short or long term problem? Should I change it again, I drove 11 miles with it with universal coolant, what can be damaged.
Thanks...
#2
Search on DCCV (or try words relating to heat) for the answers.
If the "universal" is the same chemically and specification as the jag stuff (and thus bright orange) it should be OK. Otherwise, search about coolant and the answers are already there. But, in short: if not the same then you risk writing off your cooling system and engine, and you definitely want to read up about why.
If the "universal" is the same chemically and specification as the jag stuff (and thus bright orange) it should be OK. Otherwise, search about coolant and the answers are already there. But, in short: if not the same then you risk writing off your cooling system and engine, and you definitely want to read up about why.
#3
My Lincoln LS with these symptoms also required a temperature sensor replacement. There are several on the inside of the car. I recommend removing the one behind the small grille above the ignition key first. Clean or replace-they are pretty cheap at about $20 each. There are 3 to 5 sensors depending on the year. They are all the same. I have attached a picture to show what they look like.
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https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1274627754
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1274627800
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https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1274627754
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1274627800
#4
Try to diagnose a bit further before replacing any more parts.
Use a multimeter and take some measurements:
1. Run the engine.
2. Set the controls to max "Lo" for both driver and passenger sides.
3. Confirm that the air is still blowing hot (take note which vents blow).
4. Disconnect the plug from the coolant control valve and take voltage measurements at all 3 contacts in the plug. The middle contact should read 14v or so.
5. Take resistance measurements at the 2 outer contacts in the plug (measure between each contact and a chassis ground). The 2 outer contacts should read close to 0 ohms.
6. Jumper the middle contact in the plug to the middle contact at the valve. Jumper one outer contact in the plug to the corresponding outer contact at the valve using the multimeter to measure current. Be careful that you don't short anything with the middle contact in the plug (it's always hot +12v-14v). Repeat the measurement at the other outer contact after disconnecting the first outer contact (don't disconnect the middle contacts yet). Each measurement should read 0.6 to 1.1amps.
7. With the middle contacts still jumpered between the plug and valve, jumper an outer contact on the valve to a chassis ground, while using the multimeter to measure current. Check to see if any vents blow cooler air during this grounding process. Repeat the measurement at the other outer contact and check the vents again.
8. Reconnect the plug to the valve.
9. Shut off the engine.
10. Report the results.
Use a multimeter and take some measurements:
1. Run the engine.
2. Set the controls to max "Lo" for both driver and passenger sides.
3. Confirm that the air is still blowing hot (take note which vents blow).
4. Disconnect the plug from the coolant control valve and take voltage measurements at all 3 contacts in the plug. The middle contact should read 14v or so.
5. Take resistance measurements at the 2 outer contacts in the plug (measure between each contact and a chassis ground). The 2 outer contacts should read close to 0 ohms.
6. Jumper the middle contact in the plug to the middle contact at the valve. Jumper one outer contact in the plug to the corresponding outer contact at the valve using the multimeter to measure current. Be careful that you don't short anything with the middle contact in the plug (it's always hot +12v-14v). Repeat the measurement at the other outer contact after disconnecting the first outer contact (don't disconnect the middle contacts yet). Each measurement should read 0.6 to 1.1amps.
7. With the middle contacts still jumpered between the plug and valve, jumper an outer contact on the valve to a chassis ground, while using the multimeter to measure current. Check to see if any vents blow cooler air during this grounding process. Repeat the measurement at the other outer contact and check the vents again.
8. Reconnect the plug to the valve.
9. Shut off the engine.
10. Report the results.
#5
Jaguar 2005 S ype 3.o
Hi,'I just changed the DCCV valve, ($85 @ Part Train instead of $ 393 @ Jaguar dealer!).
1. However still blowing hot / cold. Tried setting on high, pressing auto several seconds.. etc...
Any suggestion welcome.
I read that the thermostat should be changed, is it a big thing to do? would it help?
Could it be sensors which are broken?
2. Also, how important is it to use "universal coolant" instead of Jaguar's: is this a short or long term problem? Should I change it again, I drove 11 miles with it with universal coolant, what can be damaged.
Thanks...
Hi,'I just changed the DCCV valve, ($85 @ Part Train instead of $ 393 @ Jaguar dealer!).
1. However still blowing hot / cold. Tried setting on high, pressing auto several seconds.. etc...
Any suggestion welcome.
I read that the thermostat should be changed, is it a big thing to do? would it help?
Could it be sensors which are broken?
2. Also, how important is it to use "universal coolant" instead of Jaguar's: is this a short or long term problem? Should I change it again, I drove 11 miles with it with universal coolant, what can be damaged.
Thanks...
http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
#6
I have the same problem since two years and now it's repair.
Now it's repair, the problem was the AC Control Module failure, this piece order to close the trap of the DCCV on both side left and right side, the problem is only one side receitp the command to close the right side.
My mecano cancel the dual climate control and now i have a standard climate , the passenger side could change the temperature but it's not in fuction, he fix the two electrical cables to one side only (the side who accept the command of the AC control Module), and everythig is Ok .
I have cold air in the four air dispaly in the car ,
WOW very good now.
Now it's repair, the problem was the AC Control Module failure, this piece order to close the trap of the DCCV on both side left and right side, the problem is only one side receitp the command to close the right side.
My mecano cancel the dual climate control and now i have a standard climate , the passenger side could change the temperature but it's not in fuction, he fix the two electrical cables to one side only (the side who accept the command of the AC control Module), and everythig is Ok .
I have cold air in the four air dispaly in the car ,
WOW very good now.
#7
If your mechanic knew the proper repair procedure that has been posted on this forum you would now have it all working PROPERLY. No need to half-*** a repair like that. You have a burned out wire trace. Either on the Remote Climate Control Module if the car has SAT-NAV. If no SAT-NAV then the climate control module will have the burned out trace. The repair is simple. Solder a wire across the burned up trace and your fixed. If you want to do it even better a guy on here has a business repairing and improving the modules. He is jaguarclimatecontrol and in his response below you can go to his web site to see all that he offers.
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