Has anyone much knowledge in lpg convertions on here?
I am going to convert my 2000 3.0 s-type to LPG. But I wanted to know a few things:-
1. Are the valve seats hard enough to do without a valve saver?
2. Are injector straws necessary?
3. Are there any other Jag peculiarities related to LPG installation?
4. Are orange BRC injectors the right size?
5. Does anyone have a copy of the ECM pin data or a wiring diagram for my car pls?

I have installed plenty of lpg systems before, just not on a Jag (all on older cars with EFI). I plan to fit a BRC kit with orange injectors.
Thanks for reading this post. Any help is much appreciated.

 

I have a 2003 3.0 stype with a working lpg kit.

if you have the prefacelift model, you are in luck, because I believe those come with a fuel return system.

1 you will need valve savers

2 I personally dont have them, mine has the new inlet since is a 2003

3 IF YOU DONT HAVE A PETROL RETURN SYSTEM, you need to install one.

4 i run a Stag kit, they are the best, they autocalibrate while driving. They are very affordable, easy to fix, lots of documentation, AC STAG has a YT channel, they teach via email... brc and other companies can call me when they do that.
i run a stag kit on a mitsu evo 8 and its faster on lpg. And those are very fast cars. V8 eaters if modded a bit.

5 If you need to do it yourself, ask the manufacturer. If they dont know the exact installing procedure for your car, dont do it with their kit.

6 good luck with the enginebay space and installing

 

Thanks for the info. Very helpful.

I used a Stag system on my last installation. It's ok and works reliably but I wasn't impressed with the quality or the software. The ECM casing is brittle plastic and the mounting lugs snap off very easily. The BRC software is much easier to use and the mounting lugs on the ECM are strong and don't snap off.

However, I have never thought of contacting the manufacturer. As they are Italian I guess it would be difficult communicating.

My car is a 2000 pre-facelift model so fuel return should be ok. That's good to know. I'm disappointed that Jaguar don't fit decent valve seats. I've never fitted a valve saver before, so that will be a new and interesting experience.

 

You mean the 2003 models have a different cylinder head? What are the differences?

 

the inlet manifold i meant, I don't really know how much of a difference there is engine wise

On the jag i have the stag 300 premium isa2 and its got an aluminum ecu.

on the evo, i have the qbox plus, thats plastic casing but it's plenty of space there to keep it safe.

if you haven't bought the lpg kit yet, you definitely need to check out STAG's website.
im not working for them, i just love their products lol.

where are you from? Lets see how common these kits are there

 

I'm in Airdrie, near Glasgow. I'm trying to convert to LPG on the cheap. So I might use some quality used parts instead of new poor quality stuff. I won't use valtek injectors, for example, as they don't last so long and are less accurate than BRC. I want to fit the whole kit for about £400. From past experience that should be doable.

 

Get something that continuously auto adapts while driving

 

Good idea. It looks like I may have a nearly new Stag system lined up.

 

Great man. Whatever brand its good as long as it has autocalibration or adaptation while driving.
not only the mapping, but constantly doing it.
it will copy exactly that the pinj (pentrol injectors) do. You want that.

good luck man and dont forget about the valve savers.

i am happy with qbox plus.

Dont get the cheap kits(i dont know their names) Those are for taxi and not for accuracy/ performance. Send them an email first and tell them your car and what they suggest.
stag engineers are very friendly and helpful.

 

I've just had a look. I can see what you mean. I think I have worked out where to put the reducer. My goal will be to move the evap purge valve on the l/h suspension turret and place it there.
On your recommendation I have decided to go with a Stag 300-8 Q-max Basic system. That way, if it doesn't work, I'll have someone to blame.
Would you have an idea where the best place to route the loom through is please? Where does it go in your car?
Thanks for your help and advice.

 

You are welcome and im glad i can be of help

I googled the kit's name and looks like its got auto adaptations. Thats nice. I usually run when i hear "base", "basic", "lite" or words of this matter, but this kit seems nice actually! Dont forget to email stag to ask for compatibility

(Lhd car)
I got my kit second hand so my installer had to use the length of the pipes as is.
They routed the pipe above the right hand side udershield, then by the side of the long lifting spot (not jacking, but lifting) and came up near the heat core (guess tou have the master cylinder there) and the vaporiser is near my abs module. Mind you i have the 2003 with the engine bay and interior facelift.
but i guess its mostly the same.

the pipes are 5cm (edit: i wanted to say inches) away from the catalyst where they enter the engine bay, never had issues and recently ive wrapped them in heat protector

you could move the evap and route your lpg pipe by the petrol pipe underneath the shield too, since you might have your master cylinder on the side where i have my heater core. I belive your car is RHD?

check out my engine bay and where the vaporiser is:

 

Yes mine is RHD. It looks quite a lot different under the bonnet. I'm not sure if there is room to put my reducer where yours is.
Five cm from the Cat! Crumbs! I hope your heat-wrap is good stuff. Please don't think I am being rude, but are you sure you want to be driving it like that? That's a potential car bomb.

A cat normally runs at 1200-1600 degrees Fahrenheit, but can reach as high as 2000 if it overheats. Seriously dude, I've only just met you but it would be a shame if our friendship was cut short because your car went bang. As an ex-technician and professional I feel duty-bound to stick my neck out here and recommend you see a different LPG installer than the one who installed yours and get them to fix the routing of your pipework. People have died because of poorly installed systems. I hope you don't think I am putting my nose where it doesn't belong, but I'd hate for anything terrible to happen because I failed to warn you.

I hope I can find a safer way of routing mine. They are supposed to be at least 12 inches away from the exhaust, if I remember correctly. I doubt 5cm would pass a safety inspection over here. I'll let you know if I can find a safer way to run the pipework when I get round to doing mine.

 

Nothing to add, just curious what are valve savers?

 

Oh no, i meant 5inch not cm sorry. I wanted to use imperial since the forum is english and wrote cm out of habit lol

anyways, dont worry. They are far enough from the exhaust
ill take a picture down there so you can see whats really going on. That route is common practice.

the pipe is solid copper and the signal wire that goes back to the lpg ecu is there too.

been driving like that for a while without the wrap, and even measured temperature at the lpg pipe and cable: Max reading ive got was around 50*C after heating up the car really good,

Now that ive added the bazat+fiberglass heat wrap over the pipe, the assembly is fire proof. You can literally wrap your hand in that and throw fire at it and you wont feel anything.

you can route it next to the petrol lines.

Worst case scenario if lpg manages to escape from a very rare crack near the exhausts, the gas will absorb the heat, as it freezes.
its the same risk as the fuel pipe could leak petrol on the exhaust manifold.

 

lpg lubrication or valve saving helps lower the wear of the valve seats. As the lpg burns hotter and dry, it might need some lube to protect them. The lube also contains some additives that help with performance and cleaning. They really contribute to a bit of efficiency and so the money saved by using lube, can buy the lube itself.

a lot of people say it helps this duratec engine.

ive had 4 cars on lpg, this is the only one ive got this system on

 

Ah I see. That's not quite so bad.

 

just curious. Do you use sodium filled stellite exhaust valves

 

i have no idea what the 2003 aj30 has. Its a stock engine regarding internals

 

Update on LPG parts.
I have ordered a new LPG Tech 328 ECU and partially fitted a new Atiker reducer on the left suspension turret after moving the petrol vent valve.

Once installed, I will add some pics.

Advice: don't get a 720mm gas tank. It does not fit the spare wheel well. I had to expand the wheel well using hydraulic jacks to squeeze it in. I would suggest a 690 is the biggest you can comfortably fit. Oh and don't drop the tank as it is easy to break the protruding gastight housing. I think you can guess how I know that...

 

awesome. im glad its catching shape. dont forget about the valve savers.