For a starters I would mount the injectors rails as close as possible and the right way up. This may not be simple because there is nothing on the later manifolds to mount to. I can't even see the mounting bracket on your existing set-up. Are the injector rails bracketed to the cam cover?

Then start piping to the right (hidden) bank of nozzles first. Choose the shortest route to the closest injector. Never mind the order for now, just concentrate on giving them the shortest run. After you have done that bank. Then repeat the same process with the remaining three injectors. Then you can think about changing electrical plugs to get the order right. By the way, I have seen a lot worse than your injector pipes. I've seen them before about 2 feet long!

Ultimately, there is no way of getting six perfectly equal lengths, unless you mount each injector individually and manufacture a custom intake manifold. So you just have to make the best bodge possible. Once your revised routing is done and injectors connected to the right wires you can get your LPG ECU to recalibrate each injector in turn and it will attempt to compensate for the different lengths. It should be perfectly adequate for road use. Any tiny loss in performance should be negligible.

 

yup they got a brackets right below them, going to the valvecover screws... they are very well fixed in place. i really like how they had them fixed there because i can wear the engine cover over them, but yeah, it has downsides.
now i got to find a way to get them to sit closer and at equal distances beacuse i bet the letght difference has a bad impact.
Plugs are ideed connected to the right mirroring channels, but i want to connect them so the LPG ecu cannels and the fire order are numbered the same. as my ecu is older, i guess these might have an impact.
do you happen to know a video on youtube or something where i can see practical manual calibration in regards to the fuel trims? i know the ideal target is 0% correction, but i want to see how the handle corrections in engine load.
Many thanks for all the help! Have you had any progress with your kit? How are you going to close the fuel return for coasting conditions (no pinj pulsation)?

 

I'm using an emulator. I have a fuel return kit but may not use it. This will be the first time I have ever needed either. All my previous conversions have been on older cars.
I don't remember the youtube calibration videos well. But I am sure you can find some information from Stag on there. But it is slow video. They talk too much before getting to the information you need. It will take patience. You may find it easier to read their installation instructions instead. I am told you can even ring Stag up for advice and they are quite helpful but I have never done so.

As for the length of the pipes, don't panic if you can't get them perfect. Just do the best you can. You can only do the possible, not the impossible. Basically, if the engine runs well and within acceptable parameters then you've succeeded.

 

thank you!
yup stag are cool, i saw the video now, i thought i watched all of them, but i found the one called practical/real issues where they calibrate it running.
i had an emulator but i had issues with it as starting on petrol would have my engine shake. and simon told me these cars have no valve in for the pump to let go of excess fuel. so yeah, dont want a bad pump/ controller.
btw, could you please look at my drawing below... i want to reconnect my feed hoses to the cylinders in a way that would have the hoses rather equal. could i connect them that way? - each ramp would fuel 2 cyl. from a bank and 1 from the other one.
of course i will connect the plugs to the correct injectors, but i need to correct this length issue since the bank that has shorter tubes runs richer on lpg.
many thanks! i will let you know my results.


the little snakes looking lines mean that i will leave a little more hose (with slight curls - not crimpled ) for the closest injectors to make them have a similar length

 

Your proposed routes look fine. Don't bother making the shorter pipes curled. Keep them as short as possible. These short piped "stronger" cylinders can help compensate for the longer weaker ones.

 

I am back!
thanks for all the help!
did you connect your lambda sensors?
is so, could you please confirm that i picked the correct signal wires?
many thanks!

 

Looks good to me! No I haven't connected any of the electrics yet. I had been waiting for the 40mm grommet I need to pass the wiring through. I now have ten of them. Weather permitting, I will start wiring this week. But Scotland isn't known for its dry climate. So we shall see.

I am still waiting for a replacement crankshaft pulley too. Rimmer bros. Claimed item was in stock. After 2 weeks I asked where my item was, then was told to wait for a month for supplier delays. They could have at least let me know. I certainly won't be using them again.

 

sorry about your pulley, when i read that i first thought you were supercharging it 😂.
This parts industry is crazy nowadays.

!!!!! Quick update !!!!!
Prefacelifts and facelifts am have wideband sensors as described on my other topic by a kind forum colleague.
so i decided not to connect my lambda probe.

i think non facelifts have regular (0 to 1 voltage) probes.

and #2:
i have removed my valvesaver. Thankfully before any residue was left there. But a friend of mine had his manifolds full of slush. Mine worked well tho, but i dont need not cat problems, you know.

there are still some good valvesaver kits that spray this oil so it lubricates nicely.
but i havent looked into those.

 

I would imagine that the sludge is due to over oiling and possibly an old engine breathing heavily. Lots of engines get some sludge from recycled oil breather fumes. Changing the oil regularly helps.

 

I have made some electrical progress today. Soldered all the injectors, both lambda sensors and camshaft sensor. Ran out of time to finish the electrics today. But, if the rain holds off tomorrow, I should wire in the emulator and other bits at the front end. Still waiting for the crankshaft pulley! I am seriously considering the liquid polyurethane option.

 

awesome! Im glad it comes out good. Im still struggling with calibration on mine.

btw, i have a Mitsubishi evo with stag qbox plus obd connected. Do you happen to know how do i reestablish the obd2 connection with a tester? Must be a way haha
This is for any car enev jaguars if they are linked via the obd plug

 

Do you mean, how do you wire the q-box to the obd system?
If I remember correctly there are a couple of different ways depending on which type your car has. It should be on the wiring diagram from Stag.

 

nope it already wired and works perfectly. but i dont know how to access the obd port with the scanner. it doesnt connect

 

What scanner are you using?
I can't help wondering if your fitter cut the wires when he connected the lpg system instead of splicing into them.

 

Latest update. Car now runs again. Lpg system installed, but one or two finishing touches needed. I need to make a heat shield/guard for the gas pipe under the back of the car, finish mounting the lpg ecu tidily (it sit in the passenger footwell at the moment), fill the tank, check for leaks, and calibrate the lpg system.

 

Amazing. Hows calibration going on?

 

Hit a snag. Recon alternator stopped charging. Waiting for a replacement.

 

Finally got her running on LPG today.
Had some difficulty with the software automatically changing to the Polish language but managed to get her running at least. Though she needs some more tuning. Once I work out how to get it back to English I will give her a more accurate tune.

 

nice hell yeah! I just made 20k on lpg today

 

You did? Must have been a great investment. Which shares did you buy?