Hello and greetings from Bulgaria ! I’m sorry if this is the wrong thread, I’ve tried searching but this was as close as I could find. I’ve been having LPG problems as long as I’ve had it on my car. Turns out the installer didn’t fit a return line. Anyways he is not in the country anymore and I have to explain to another mechanic hot to do it.. Soo any advice ? I’ve already gotten the return line kit from some UK LPG online store. Thank you in advance !

 

Do you have an emulator?
I haven't fitted a return, yet. I have an emulator fitted. But I am told if you don't fit a return the fuel pump will die prematurely. So I am going to fit one, possibly during the next few days. It doesn't look too complicated, but I will let you know how I get on and take some pics.

 

Tried with an emulator, but to no avail. Still having problems. Works fine on petrol, then works fine on LPG, but after LPG doesn’t want to work on petrol.

 

See previous edited post. Perhaps you have fuel pump issues.

 

The pump is fine. I have to run a return line. Can anyone show me how they did it on their a type ?

 

So far as I am aware, only two of us on here have LPG installed in an s-type.
I'm the only one who has installed the system myself. If you look at the previous comments in this thread you will see the other guy. He might have a fuel return fitted, but his system was installed by an indie. He might be able to tell you how his is fitted. Or wait a few days and I will show you how I have done mine. I'm not an LPG specialist, but I am an ex-technician.

 

Thank you very much ! I have read a lot and have an idea how to do it. If it works I’ll post the DIY. Cheers !

 

Cool. It's very simple in principle. The hardest part I anticipate being drilling and fitting the pipe and nozzle in the top of the tank. The fuel pipe under the bonnet is easily accessible to fit the flow valve. I plan to route the pipe beside the LPG pipe going through behind the left wheel arch liner. Don't forget, wherever you route the pipe, it must not be close to the exhaust.keep it 12" away. Or protected behind a metal heat shield where that isn't possible. The pipe should be fixed at maximum of 12" intervals with non-chafing p-clips. Best of luck.

 

Today I replaced the used BRC LPG injectors with a new set of Barracudas (the number 4 injector had stopped working). Then I started the fuel return installation. I didn't get far before rain stopped play. I did learn that it will be necessary to replace the original rubber covered plastic fuel pipe to fit the T-piece. It isn't soft enough to stretch over the tee. I went out and bought a metre of 8mm high-pressure fuel pipe. Tomorrow if it doesn't rain, I'll fit it.

 

hey bro, yes you need a retun if you dont have one. Emulators will destroy your pump/pump controller.
+40740596499.
hit me on whatsapp to send a voice message as i am very busy to write.
but i will also post a link to the logforums uk where i described the operation on mine.
works well.

sportson. Im glad yours is working.
im in africa i havent drove mine in 2 mths

 

Update: I've fitted the fuel return. It was quite simple. I took some pics, but can't get my new phone to upload them. iPhones are not intuitive. Nggrrhh! However, I learnt how to do it.

You will need a new section of 8mm high pressure fuel pipe, in addition to the fuel return kit. This is to replace the fuel pipe that runs to the fuel rail under the bonnet/hood. The Jag pipe is rubber covered plastic and cannot easily be cut and joined to the tee.

Fit the tee beside the airbox. The return fuel pipe supplied by Tinleytech (now renamed and found at lpgautosupplies.co.uk) is a very tight fit on the tee. You'll need to soften it by dipping the end in a mug of boiling water. The teeny weeny return pipe clips are barely fit for purpose, you may find it worth investing in a few better quality ones. The wiring is easy, simply tap into the wires for the LPG valve actuator. I found the best place to mount the return valve is on the on the left suspension turret, beside the evap. purge valve.

I ran the pipe back from there by following the course of the petrol pipes towards the tank (to do this you will need to remove the left wheel arch liner for access. Make sure there is no chance of chaffing when you route your pipe (careful placement of the insulated p-clips will help with this). I ran the pipework underneath the car in parallel with the petrol and LPG pipes.

I removed the rear seat squab and popped out the left round black rubber inspection cover to gain access to the top of the fuel level sender. I poked the pipe up following the petrol pipework to the top of the tank. After viewing parts diagrams and pictures of parts on ebay, I deduced there was an area between the pipe connections that would be ideal to drill and tap with a 6mm thread. This was right beside a black cross someone from Jaguar had already placed there. Do not mistake this for the green cross on the other side of the fuel level sender top (if you drilled there you would not be able to fit the inspection cover back on!).

Warning! I found the thickness of the plastic to be a bit less than I would have liked (about only 3mm). If I knew how thick the fuel tank walls are, I might have been tempted to drill into the tank instead. I was unable to deduce this, so I didn't risk ruining and replacing the fuel tank. I used a nice big gob of petrol resistant 2-stroke motorcycle crankcase sealant on the thread of the brass nozzle and screwed it in gently. You may be able to use JB-weld instead, but that will be my plan-B if I get a leak. After heating the end of the fuel return pipe in boiling water again it slid onto the brass nozzle and I clamped it using a spring clip. Recommendation: allow the semi-hardening sealant to set before filling your petrol tank.

I am hoping this will not leak, but I will monitor the situation and report if there are any problems. So far, so good. We drove about 30 miles today and not a whiff of petrol, but the tank was only a third full.

My thoughts after drilling the hole in the top of the sender, are that it might have been better drilled into the tank. However, I did not have a tool to remove the sender and ascertain the wall thickness of the plastic tank. If it is 5 or 6mm thick this would be a much better place to screw into (at a near 45 degree angle due to drill access). The only way to secure the pipe would then be a spring clip as you would not be able to get a driver onto a jubilee clip.

When I figure out how to reply to threads on my new phone I will add pictures. Currently, I have too much to do and not enough time and patience to play with phones.

I also found out today that I needn't have replaced my injectors at the cost of £110. I think I may have kinked one of the injector pipes with the fuel rail. So the inlet manifold is going to come off again and I will have to re-site the injector nozzle. Blast! Every day is a school day, at least I am slowly getting there.

 

I’m stuck …. If someone could upload some pictures as how they did it I would consider naming my second born after him

 

bro sent me a message on whatsapp my number is in my prevoius message.
im sorry im too busy to write all the instructions as its easier as a voice message.

 

Finally managed to get new phone to log in! Here are the pics I have so far. I forgot to take any of the rear end, but will do so when I check for leaks at a later date.


New Barracuda LPG injectors fitted

Location of reducer, filters etc.

Valve saver location

Modified plastic cover and re-sited evap valve.

Petrol return valve location after cover fitted


Location of Tee in new 8mm fuel pipe.

Zoomed in pic of Tee


Fuel return valve without cover.


Aerial view

 

Latest update. After considerable effort trying to tune in the LPG system, it was finally deduced that I didn’t need to replace the injectors. One of the delivery pipes from the injectors is kinked, restricting flow. I will have to re-site one of the nozzles as it is slightly too close to the petrol fuel rail, thereby causing the kink. Whoops! The inlet manifold will need to be removed again😣🙄.

 

Hi!
how are your petrol return lines doing?
i had to get hi press and heat petrol hose from japan due to european hoses cracking from heat (even tho they were rated as heat resistant too)

 

My petrol pipe is fine thanks, but I didn’t route it anywhere near the exhaust or another heat source. I would guess that would be the cause of your problem. Maybe you need a heat shield or to reroute your pipework.

 

i route it like you did, from the alu pipe to the rail mushroom connection.
its just EU trash hoses.
the english one i received with the tinley kit is perfectly fine.

 

Oh. Ok. Must just be poor QC on behalf of the parts manufacturer then. That’s a jolly poor show considering the raft of EU regulations to supposedly avoid situations like this. I wonder who looked the wrong way and for how much.