How does the A/C System Work?
#1
How does the A/C System Work?
I know that is a vague question but I'm just curious if somebody could tell me the components of the HVAC system and how it works.
I have a 2001 S Type 4.0 and the A/C does not blow cold. I have recharged it but even when I recharge it the air still does not blow COLD...it gets a lil cool right after recharge but if the weather gets above 85 degrees I can't feel it at all. After about a month the air doesn't even blow cool anymore as if it was never recharged at all. The Heat works great and blows HOT!
A shop told me that there is a way to check codes in the HVAC system but they wouldn't tell me how to do it. They just said it would be $200 to test everything and $1300 to change the compressor if that is what it is.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
I have a 2001 S Type 4.0 and the A/C does not blow cold. I have recharged it but even when I recharge it the air still does not blow COLD...it gets a lil cool right after recharge but if the weather gets above 85 degrees I can't feel it at all. After about a month the air doesn't even blow cool anymore as if it was never recharged at all. The Heat works great and blows HOT!
A shop told me that there is a way to check codes in the HVAC system but they wouldn't tell me how to do it. They just said it would be $200 to test everything and $1300 to change the compressor if that is what it is.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Last edited by mikchek; 03-26-2015 at 07:27 PM.
#3
The first page of problem solving is finding somebody else who has had the same problem as you which brought me here.
#4
I know that is a vague question but I'm just curious if somebody could tell me the components of the HVAC system and how it works.
I have a 2001 S Type 4.0 and the A/C does not blow cold. I have recharged it but even when I recharge it the air still does not blow COLD...it gets a lil cool right after recharge but if the weather gets above 85 degrees I can't feel it at all. After about a month the air doesn't even blow cool anymore as if it was never recharged at all. The Heat works great and blows HOT!
A shop told me that there is a way to check codes in the HVAC system but they wouldn't tell me how to do it. They just said it would be $200 to test everything and $1300 to change the compressor if that is what it is.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
I have a 2001 S Type 4.0 and the A/C does not blow cold. I have recharged it but even when I recharge it the air still does not blow COLD...it gets a lil cool right after recharge but if the weather gets above 85 degrees I can't feel it at all. After about a month the air doesn't even blow cool anymore as if it was never recharged at all. The Heat works great and blows HOT!
A shop told me that there is a way to check codes in the HVAC system but they wouldn't tell me how to do it. They just said it would be $200 to test everything and $1300 to change the compressor if that is what it is.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Those self service Freon cans are just the worst and do more harm than good. Takes a lot of learning and tools to properly diagnose and service an auto ac system
Just my $0.02
#5
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Hi mikchek,
You mention that you recharged the system, which implies you thought the refrigerant was low. If it was indeed low, you have a leak somewhere in the system. Leaks are usually not too difficult to locate using the UV dye method, unless the leak is in the evaporator coil inside the dash. Often they're at hose joints and you just need to replace a green O-ring seal.
If your system has a leak, simply adding refrigerant will rarely provide optimum cooling, because after the refrigerant has leaked, air enters the system via the leak point when the system is turned off. "Recharging" the system mixes refrigerant with air, leading to suboptimum performance.
The only real solution to a leak is to locate it and repair it, then have the system evacutated with a vacuum pump to remove the residual air, then have the proper amount of refrigerant and compressor oil added to provide proper system performance and to preserve the life of the compressor.
But it's possible that your problem is something else entirely, for example, a problem with the air temperature sensor, solar sensor, ambient air temperature sensor or climate control module (CCM or HVAC ECM). You can check and clean the electrical connectors and look for any obvious signs of damage, but beyond those sorts of basic DIY efforts you probably will need the help of a good automotive A/C expert, as abonano has already recommended.
Regarding the method of reading HVAC codes, I don't know if that's possible on the S-Type, but it would be worth searching more diligently, perhaps trying Google searches as well, some of which will point you back to J-F. The thread below a link to info on pulling codes on the X300 Denso HVAC system - I'm not sure if it applies to the S-Type but it might be worth a try:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-enigma-58633/
Here's a link to a helpful page on Jaguar A/C systems: http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
You can view S-Type system components in the Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog, which you can download and install by following the instructions in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...uctions-48194/
Regarding basic A/C system components and operation: Let me google that for you
Cheers,
Don
You mention that you recharged the system, which implies you thought the refrigerant was low. If it was indeed low, you have a leak somewhere in the system. Leaks are usually not too difficult to locate using the UV dye method, unless the leak is in the evaporator coil inside the dash. Often they're at hose joints and you just need to replace a green O-ring seal.
If your system has a leak, simply adding refrigerant will rarely provide optimum cooling, because after the refrigerant has leaked, air enters the system via the leak point when the system is turned off. "Recharging" the system mixes refrigerant with air, leading to suboptimum performance.
The only real solution to a leak is to locate it and repair it, then have the system evacutated with a vacuum pump to remove the residual air, then have the proper amount of refrigerant and compressor oil added to provide proper system performance and to preserve the life of the compressor.
But it's possible that your problem is something else entirely, for example, a problem with the air temperature sensor, solar sensor, ambient air temperature sensor or climate control module (CCM or HVAC ECM). You can check and clean the electrical connectors and look for any obvious signs of damage, but beyond those sorts of basic DIY efforts you probably will need the help of a good automotive A/C expert, as abonano has already recommended.
Regarding the method of reading HVAC codes, I don't know if that's possible on the S-Type, but it would be worth searching more diligently, perhaps trying Google searches as well, some of which will point you back to J-F. The thread below a link to info on pulling codes on the X300 Denso HVAC system - I'm not sure if it applies to the S-Type but it might be worth a try:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-enigma-58633/
Here's a link to a helpful page on Jaguar A/C systems: http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
You can view S-Type system components in the Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog, which you can download and install by following the instructions in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...uctions-48194/
Regarding basic A/C system components and operation: Let me google that for you
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 03-26-2015 at 10:26 PM.
#6
Stop pumping more crap in your system now!
If you don't understand it leave it alone and pay someone to fix it. You can make it much worse.
Just be aware that if you pay someone you can easily spend several thousand dollars repairing the A/C system.
You were quoted $1300 to change the compressor and at this late date you do probably need one. I changed mine with Freon and the dryer for around $350.
You will go broke paying shops to repair your car.
The only other choice it to learn to DIY.
.
.
.
If you don't understand it leave it alone and pay someone to fix it. You can make it much worse.
Just be aware that if you pay someone you can easily spend several thousand dollars repairing the A/C system.
You were quoted $1300 to change the compressor and at this late date you do probably need one. I changed mine with Freon and the dryer for around $350.
You will go broke paying shops to repair your car.
The only other choice it to learn to DIY.
.
.
.
#7
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#8
#9
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While we're talking about the A/C system, it's worth pointing out that Freon is a registered trademark of DuPont which was used on a range of halocarbon products, including dichlorodifluoromethane, popularly known as R-12.
Neither DuPont nor refrigeration professionals use the name Freon to describe R-134a, which replaced R-12 in automotive A/C systems in the early '90s, following ratification of the Montreal Protocol. The correct term for R-134a is just "refrigerant."
Neither DuPont nor refrigeration professionals use the name Freon to describe R-134a, which replaced R-12 in automotive A/C systems in the early '90s, following ratification of the Montreal Protocol. The correct term for R-134a is just "refrigerant."
#10
While we're talking about the A/C system, it's worth pointing out that Freon is a registered trademark of DuPont which was used on a range of halocarbon products, including dichlorodifluoromethane, popularly known as R-12.
Neither DuPont nor refrigeration professionals use the name Freon to describe R-134a, which replaced R-12 in automotive A/C systems in the early '90s, following ratification of the Montreal Protocol. The correct term for R-134a is just "refrigerant."
Neither DuPont nor refrigeration professionals use the name Freon to describe R-134a, which replaced R-12 in automotive A/C systems in the early '90s, following ratification of the Montreal Protocol. The correct term for R-134a is just "refrigerant."
#11
#12
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#13
Garage should have pressure tested ac system first before recharge, as its pointless. Any good garage would advise this. As has been stated. Low ac fluid would suggest leak. Pressure test would rule out leak. But also issue may be temp sensor. Or indeed a mechanical flap maybe stuck shut, not allowing the cold air through. There are a few temp sensors inside the car. Sure one is behind steering wheel to the left on my UK car, small grilled piece of plastic, prise plastic grille off and gently clean sensor, if its covered in dust/fluff/grease then that could be the cause, if its not least you know its clean, but it may be broke. So first thing would be get the ac pressure tested for leaks. If leak found, repair, pressure test again, no leaks, recharge ac, see if ac works, then if not, check sensors in cabin, I am unsure if you can do a self diagnostics on climate control, maybe others can advise something like hold two certain buttons and the system will self check and report back any faults. Hope this helps.
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mikchek (04-03-2015)
#14
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#16
Garage should have pressure tested ac system first before recharge, as its pointless. Any good garage would advise this. As has been stated. Low ac fluid would suggest leak. Pressure test would rule out leak. But also issue may be temp sensor. Or indeed a mechanical flap maybe stuck shut, not allowing the cold air through. There are a few temp sensors inside the car. Sure one is behind steering wheel to the left on my UK car, small grilled piece of plastic, prise plastic grille off and gently clean sensor, if its covered in dust/fluff/grease then that could be the cause, if its not least you know its clean, but it may be broke. So first thing would be get the ac pressure tested for leaks. If leak found, repair, pressure test again, no leaks, recharge ac, see if ac works, then if not, check sensors in cabin, I am unsure if you can do a self diagnostics on climate control, maybe others can advise something like hold two certain buttons and the system will self check and report back any faults. Hope this helps.
#17
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mikchek (04-03-2015)
#18
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[QUOTE=mikchek;1198474]I don't want to learn how to repair it myself I just want to get it fixed and I'm looking for understanding of how the system works so that I don't get taken advantage of by a lot of the greedy local repair shops.[QUOTE]
Hi mikchek,
I have to agree with JagV8 and others who have recommended that you seek the help of a qualified professional, but I understand your concern about being taken advantage of. The key for you will be to find a good automotive A/C specialist who comes recommended by someone you know and trust, so ask around.
I do nearly all of my own auto maintenance and repairs, but even when I replace an A/C compressor & receiver drier, or something as minor as an O-ring, I take the car to a local independent radiator/air-conditioning shop where the owner is an absolute expert and has the apparatus to properly evacuate the system of residual air and moisture before charging with exactly the correct amount of refrigerant. I could learn how to do it myself and invest in a vacuum pump, but the shop is so affordable I'd rather pay them to do it right. And of course, doing certain things myself might violate certain federal laws controlling the release of refrigerant into the atmosphere. Depending on how much refrigerant is required, I generally pay the shop between $50.00 and $100.00 for an evacuation, vacuum test and refrigerant charge.
It should not be difficult or costly for a good specialist to test your system for leaks and other common issues (pressure switch, compressor, compressor clutch, electrical connectors, etc.).
Please keep us informed.
Cheers,
Don
Hi mikchek,
I have to agree with JagV8 and others who have recommended that you seek the help of a qualified professional, but I understand your concern about being taken advantage of. The key for you will be to find a good automotive A/C specialist who comes recommended by someone you know and trust, so ask around.
I do nearly all of my own auto maintenance and repairs, but even when I replace an A/C compressor & receiver drier, or something as minor as an O-ring, I take the car to a local independent radiator/air-conditioning shop where the owner is an absolute expert and has the apparatus to properly evacuate the system of residual air and moisture before charging with exactly the correct amount of refrigerant. I could learn how to do it myself and invest in a vacuum pump, but the shop is so affordable I'd rather pay them to do it right. And of course, doing certain things myself might violate certain federal laws controlling the release of refrigerant into the atmosphere. Depending on how much refrigerant is required, I generally pay the shop between $50.00 and $100.00 for an evacuation, vacuum test and refrigerant charge.
It should not be difficult or costly for a good specialist to test your system for leaks and other common issues (pressure switch, compressor, compressor clutch, electrical connectors, etc.).
Please keep us informed.
Cheers,
Don
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EssOess (04-13-2015)
#20
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Does the manual come with an evacutation/refrigerant recovery system, an EPA 609 Technician Certification, and any other licenses or certifications required by federal, state and local law?
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EssOess (04-13-2015)