How to headlight repair stype FAQ
#181
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: PHX some of the time
Posts: 117,780
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Here you go, don't set them on fire.
Stick it in the oven after you take off the rubber surround @150-170* for ten minutes to soften the urethane. Then do not get any urethane on the chrome as you pull it aparts(unlock the tabs too)and then try to clean, youll remove the chrome finish. Its thinner than a sheet of paper. When done just put back together, the urethane will reseal itself
#183
I carried out the screw fix, on my 2005 s-type 2.7 D.It passed the UK MOT.
I am now finding that the lights are still low, and wondering if any member knows or there is information on the beam pattern, how far should the lights shine ahead on dipped.
I feel that mine should be higher??
Any info would help
I am now finding that the lights are still low, and wondering if any member knows or there is information on the beam pattern, how far should the lights shine ahead on dipped.
I feel that mine should be higher??
Any info would help
#184
#185
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
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theres no need to remove any of the sealant, you should have left it and just stuck it back together, it reseals well especially when warm
#186
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,194 Likes
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1,360 Posts
I carried out the screw fix, on my 2005 s-type 2.7 D.It passed the UK MOT.
I am now finding that the lights are still low, and wondering if any member knows or there is information on the beam pattern, how far should the lights shine ahead on dipped.
I feel that mine should be higher??
Any info would help
I am now finding that the lights are still low, and wondering if any member knows or there is information on the beam pattern, how far should the lights shine ahead on dipped.
I feel that mine should be higher??
Any info would help
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Robinb (03-20-2013)
#187
Robin, screw the unbroken side as this will give added support and prolong or keep that side from breaking. Also there is no differance on movement of hi beam or low. theyre one complete assembly inside the housing. Just the hi beam connector is easy to access and check for movement
the screw is now your adjuster. screw in to raise out to lower. park on flat ground in front of a wall and you can see the beam cutoff and adjust accordingly. no reason for fancy aimers. if you nned it higher then you may need a longer screw or need to back off the factory adjust some to get more adjustment hieght as the screw pushes the headlight back against the factory adjuster. If it was too low before it broke, it still will be and wont let the screw raise the headlight more till you back it off
#188
#189
Hi fellow jag owners, Im a new member in Australia and bought a silver 2000 s type this week 4 litre 123k for a mere $10,000. It is in great condition apart from the driver side headlight adjuster is broken off as described above. Therefore no manual or power adjust.
I moved the high beam connector, saw the movement and then cut a piece of rubber hose to sit between the connector and the surround about a 13 mm gap. With the spring in the rubber it has stayed in place, the headlights point up and i can see at night.... Paul
I moved the high beam connector, saw the movement and then cut a piece of rubber hose to sit between the connector and the surround about a 13 mm gap. With the spring in the rubber it has stayed in place, the headlights point up and i can see at night.... Paul
#191
#192
All our cars cost more in Australia like twice the price. my v6 nissan nivara dual cab diesel was $65,000. USA price looks like $32,000.
However we get paid more and the steering wheel is on the right side...
My s type v8 with ford Lincoln motor, is a dream to drive. I plan to buy the better parts for the headlight mechanism at $50 set, Have people tried them and are they good? Paul
However we get paid more and the steering wheel is on the right side...
My s type v8 with ford Lincoln motor, is a dream to drive. I plan to buy the better parts for the headlight mechanism at $50 set, Have people tried them and are they good? Paul
#193
#194
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
Received 2,194 Likes
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1,360 Posts
All our cars cost more in Australia like twice the price. my v6 nissan nivara dual cab diesel was $65,000. USA price looks like $32,000.
However we get paid more and the steering wheel is on the right side...
My s type v8 with ford Lincoln motor, is a dream to drive. I plan to buy the better parts for the headlight mechanism at $50 set, Have people tried them and are they good? Paul
However we get paid more and the steering wheel is on the right side...
My s type v8 with ford Lincoln motor, is a dream to drive. I plan to buy the better parts for the headlight mechanism at $50 set, Have people tried them and are they good? Paul
#195
#196
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,254
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The uh slightly modded and built vq4.0. You know, billet rods, forged piston, brian crower cams, ported heads, studded mains and heads the ken bell twin screw was originally for and came off a corvette. Made a new lower aluminum intake to fit to the motor. You can useally find me over at clubfrontier.org, or thenewx.org. Theyre both great sites for the truck
#198
#199
#200
In 1999 the LS debuted as Lincoln's first rear-wheel drive sport luxury sedan for the 2000 model year. Optional in the LS was an all-aluminum 3.9 L DOHC V8, a shorter stroke variant of the Jaguar 4.0 L AJ-26 V8.
Sounds like chicken and egg. Still a big motor. Yes I know they have cast liners or not, VVT or not etc, more power or less.
Still plan to pull the auxiliary water pump out this weekend and am tempted not to put it back in the same place. I will check the feed from the DCCV relay to the pump when on Heat before removing in case it is fuse, wire , connection issue etc. My friends X type just had rats eat the wiring under bonnet and $3000 later it goes again...
Sounds like chicken and egg. Still a big motor. Yes I know they have cast liners or not, VVT or not etc, more power or less.
Still plan to pull the auxiliary water pump out this weekend and am tempted not to put it back in the same place. I will check the feed from the DCCV relay to the pump when on Heat before removing in case it is fuse, wire , connection issue etc. My friends X type just had rats eat the wiring under bonnet and $3000 later it goes again...