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How to headlight repair stype FAQ

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  #181  
Old 03-04-2013, 04:50 PM
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Here you go, don't set them on fire.

Originally Posted by Brutal
Stick it in the oven after you take off the rubber surround @150-170* for ten minutes to soften the urethane. Then do not get any urethane on the chrome as you pull it aparts(unlock the tabs too)and then try to clean, youll remove the chrome finish. Its thinner than a sheet of paper. When done just put back together, the urethane will reseal itself
 
  #182  
Old 03-14-2013, 10:35 PM
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Question: What is the best material to re-seal the cover to the base of the headlamp assembly? I removed the majority of the original sealant.

My replacement adjusters arrived from Poland and I am cleaning up all the parts before I assemble and seal them together again
 
  #183  
Old 03-20-2013, 04:38 AM
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I carried out the screw fix, on my 2005 s-type 2.7 D.It passed the UK MOT.
I am now finding that the lights are still low, and wondering if any member knows or there is information on the beam pattern, how far should the lights shine ahead on dipped.
I feel that mine should be higher??
Any info would help
 
  #184  
Old 03-20-2013, 08:31 AM
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The only way to have it aligned properly is to take it to a shop that does headlight alignment. You need to tell them that you made this repair so they do not damage the light in the process of aligning them.
 
  #185  
Old 03-20-2013, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tijoe
Question: What is the best material to re-seal the cover to the base of the headlamp assembly? I removed the majority of the original sealant.

My replacement adjusters arrived from Poland and I am cleaning up all the parts before I assemble and seal them together again
theres no need to remove any of the sealant, you should have left it and just stuck it back together, it reseals well especially when warm
 
  #186  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by stanjag
I carried out the screw fix, on my 2005 s-type 2.7 D.It passed the UK MOT.
I am now finding that the lights are still low, and wondering if any member knows or there is information on the beam pattern, how far should the lights shine ahead on dipped.
I feel that mine should be higher??
Any info would help
the screw is now your adjuster. screw in to raise out to lower. park on flat ground in front of a wall and you can see the beam cutoff and adjust accordingly. no reason for fancy aimers. if you nned it higher then you may need a longer screw or need to back off the factory adjust some to get more adjustment hieght as the screw pushes the headlight back against the factory adjuster. If it was too low before it broke, it still will be and wont let the screw raise the headlight more till you back it off
 
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  #187  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
Robin, screw the unbroken side as this will give added support and prolong or keep that side from breaking. Also there is no differance on movement of hi beam or low. theyre one complete assembly inside the housing. Just the hi beam connector is easy to access and check for movement
And again...
the screw is now your adjuster. screw in to raise out to lower. park on flat ground in front of a wall and you can see the beam cutoff and adjust accordingly. no reason for fancy aimers. if you nned it higher then you may need a longer screw or need to back off the factory adjust some to get more adjustment hieght as the screw pushes the headlight back against the factory adjuster. If it was too low before it broke, it still will be and wont let the screw raise the headlight more till you back it off
Thanks for the encouragement and info, Brutal. Everything now OK.
 
  #188  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:26 AM
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One of my headlights is definitely pointed lower than the other. This headlight was also replaced due to a wreck about 1 1/2 months ago....sigh, third time back at the Nationwide reccomended body ship to have them fix their work.
 
  #189  
Old 05-01-2013, 05:41 AM
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Hi fellow jag owners, Im a new member in Australia and bought a silver 2000 s type this week 4 litre 123k for a mere $10,000. It is in great condition apart from the driver side headlight adjuster is broken off as described above. Therefore no manual or power adjust.
I moved the high beam connector, saw the movement and then cut a piece of rubber hose to sit between the connector and the surround about a 13 mm gap. With the spring in the rubber it has stayed in place, the headlights point up and i can see at night.... Paul
 
  #190  
Old 05-01-2013, 12:39 PM
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Wow! That car would not bring $2500 in the US.

Big difference in car prices!
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  #191  
Old 05-01-2013, 01:38 PM
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I've always wished I could borrow the USS Enterprise's transporter to beam my vehicles to Australia when it's time to sell them....
 
  #192  
Old 05-02-2013, 07:25 AM
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All our cars cost more in Australia like twice the price. my v6 nissan nivara dual cab diesel was $65,000. USA price looks like $32,000.
However we get paid more and the steering wheel is on the right side...
My s type v8 with ford Lincoln motor, is a dream to drive. I plan to buy the better parts for the headlight mechanism at $50 set, Have people tried them and are they good? Paul
 
  #193  
Old 05-03-2013, 06:00 PM
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Well no.

The Lincoln has a de-tuned version of the Jaguar motor.

Many people get this wrong.
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  #194  
Old 05-03-2013, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by grandhaze
All our cars cost more in Australia like twice the price. my v6 nissan nivara dual cab diesel was $65,000. USA price looks like $32,000.
However we get paid more and the steering wheel is on the right side...
My s type v8 with ford Lincoln motor, is a dream to drive. I plan to buy the better parts for the headlight mechanism at $50 set, Have people tried them and are they good? Paul
Thats alot of money for a stock Frontier/Navara. Im probobly there with my 05 but I quit counting
 
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  #195  
Old 05-04-2013, 06:54 AM
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That looks great, what motor is under the charger. My narvara is still stock with its renault diesel v6 and built in Spain. Jag is still great, Headlights stayed in place to Gold Coast and back tonight. Blue car is FG monocoque special. Paul
 
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  #196  
Old 05-04-2013, 11:58 AM
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The uh slightly modded and built vq4.0. You know, billet rods, forged piston, brian crower cams, ported heads, studded mains and heads the ken bell twin screw was originally for and came off a corvette. Made a new lower aluminum intake to fit to the motor. You can useally find me over at clubfrontier.org, or thenewx.org. Theyre both great sites for the truck
 
  #197  
Old 05-12-2013, 04:17 PM
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Just did this repair and it went smoothly! I used a number 8 sheet metal screw and 1/8" drill bit for the pilot hole. Very easy fix! Thanks!
 
  #198  
Old 05-13-2013, 04:49 AM
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My piece of rubber hose still working well holding the light back in place. Still plan to get the adjuster fixed. Soon I'll be pulling out the electric water pump so most things will be disassembled... not much room in there: damn big those lincoln v8s......Paul.
 
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  #199  
Old 05-13-2013, 12:52 PM
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No again!
The Lincoln has a detuned version of the Jaguar V-8.
The S Type came out in 1999 and the Lincoln LS did not come out until 2000.

The V-8 is all Jaguar and they could not afford to release it until they were purchased by Ford and got some development money.
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  #200  
Old 05-14-2013, 06:04 AM
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In 1999 the LS debuted as Lincoln's first rear-wheel drive sport luxury sedan for the 2000 model year. Optional in the LS was an all-aluminum 3.9 L DOHC V8, a shorter stroke variant of the Jaguar 4.0 L AJ-26 V8.
Sounds like chicken and egg. Still a big motor. Yes I know they have cast liners or not, VVT or not etc, more power or less.
Still plan to pull the auxiliary water pump out this weekend and am tempted not to put it back in the same place. I will check the feed from the DCCV relay to the pump when on Heat before removing in case it is fuse, wire , connection issue etc. My friends X type just had rats eat the wiring under bonnet and $3000 later it goes again...
 


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