how do I remove the oil pump from 2000 jag s-type v8?

 

Christos, this is going to be a fairly involved project. In short, you have to remove the fans to give yourself some room. Next, remove the serpentine belt, now, remove everything off of the front of the engine (alternator, compressor, etc) so you can access the lower pulley (attached to the harmonic balancer) and remove everything around the lower pulley. Remove the lower pulley. At this point, you will need to remove the front cover off of the engine. On the lower crank, you will now be able to access the oil pump (attached directly on the lower crank). Undo the few bolts and off it should slide. Now this is greatly simplified as there is probably about 5 hours of work in getting a lot of the stuff off of the front of the engine just so you can pull the front cover. If you have the time, you can save yourself a lot of money. But, plan on a lot of cuss words and going through a case of beer or so. This is going to be a weekend project.

 

Why are you removing the oil pump??? This is kind of a cryptic request!! Most people start with "I have a low oil pressure situation" or "my oil pressure dropped and the engine made a rattling noise". I usually don't wake up one day and think 'I am going to replace my oil pump today'!!!!! Before you start replacing expensive, hard to reach parts, you might want to try diagnostics. (just a thought)

bob gauff

 

Thermo thank you very much for the info. Its greatly appreciated I thought I had to get the engine out.

One more question, when the engine is cold the pressure is at 45 psi, when the engine warms up the pressure drops to 12 psi(this is idling). Do you know if this is sufficient to activate the vvt solenoid?
The code is P1383

 

Christos, that pressure does sound a little low. I would expect the oil pressure to be up around 20 psi. But, I can not find anything that Jaguar recommends as a minimum oil pressure for these engines.

As for the VVT solenoid, that is an electrically operated valve, not oil operated. If you are curious if that is operating, according to the JTIS, you should be able to hear the VVT solenoid click with the engine at idle. No clicking would imply a bad solenoid (ie, electrical issue), not an oil issue. Looking up the DTC code, it makes it sound like the VVT valve has issues, not an oil issue. If you want some electrical checks for the VVT solenoid, let me know.

In short, the VVT system functions by the VVT solenoid energizing, porting some pressurized oil over to the VVT piston. This oil then causes the piston to move, pressing on a set of gears (one attached to the piston, one to the cam shaft). Due to the angle of the gears, as the piston moves, it will cause the vehicle timing to be advanced or retarded.

Since you are only getting this problem on 1 bank, not both, I would think that you can rule out an oil issue unless you have a blocked oil passage. If you have a blocked oil passage, you have bigger issues.

 

Thanks again Thermo,

i can not hear a clicking sound on either one of the solenoids.

How do I do the electrical checks?


Thanks Thermo you are a great help.

Christos

 

Christos, you will need a multimeter to perform these tests. First, with the engine off, disconnect the plug for the left VVT solenoid. Perform a resistance check between the 2 pins (pins 1 and 2). Do you get between 5 and 20 ohms (minus lead resistance)? If no, you have a bad VVT solenoid, replace the solenoid. If yes, then turn the ignition key to the RUN position (do NOT start the car). Check to see if you have more than 10 VDC at pin 1 to chassis ground on the car side of the plug. If no, you have a wiring problem between that plug and the PCM (possible PCM problem). If yes, you will now need to disconnect the plugs going to the PCM. Now, do a resistance check between Pin 2 of the VVT solenoid plug (computer side) to the PCM plug pin 1. Do you get MORE than 10K ohms? If yes, you have a bad wire between the two plugs, repair the wire. If no, do a resistance check of the VVT solenoid plug Pin 2 to chassis ground. Do you get LESS than 10K ohms? If yes, the wire between pin 2 and the PCM is ground, replace/repair the wiring. If you got greater than 10K ohms, you have a bad PCM, replace the PCM.

If at any point you are told to replace a component, replace the said component and then restore the car back to its normal condition.

 

almost ALL p1388, p1383 codes ive seen are oil supply issue to the VVT's specificly when mileage gets up there. general rule of thumb is 10psi/1000rpm. But what is read down low on the engine is not the same as in the top to the VVT's(VVTs dont operate anyway at idle) Forget everything and change your oil and use 20-50w from now on and clear the code. Ill bet you dont see it again....
The thicker oil wont "bleed off" from the bearings like 5-30w and so far fixes all these issue Ive ever dealt with...Plus the price is right

 

Thanks much I will try that and let you know what's happening.

Christos