My jag has been shutting off while idling and I took to get the codes pulled and it pulled 26 codes!! Keep in minds this is a 03 s type 68,000 miles

 

Hi, and welcome to the forum.

For the stalling issue, replace the engine, fuel tank, and all related components. That should take care of it.

The preceding was industrial strength humor. If you'd like a less expensive option, please post more details. *

Recent history of the car: Reliable daily driver, and this is a new problem out of the blue? Derelict dragged out of a field, and you're trying to get it running again? Something in between?

Any recent work done?

The fault codes? Most will be secondary faults related to the primary issue, but there will be some good info in there. Please post the 5 digit codes, such as P0301, and not the definition the scanner gave you. Some generic definitions are not accurate for Jaguar. We don't charge by the letter. Please post all of the codes.

*Note the little smiley wink meaning this was offered in good fun. We really need more details to be able to help.

 

You also might want to add your general location to the profile data and also post a brief "intro" in the New Members forum here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-intro-must-5/

(It is kind of expected of new folks who join the Forums.)

 

A couple more details, please:

Does the engine run okay except at idle? Or does it run poorly at all speeds?

When the engine dies, does it sputter first? Or does it just shut off instantly as if you had turned the key off?

 

Welcome to the forums Jake,

......... and the 26 codes are?

Graham

 

Here is all the codes, p0105,p1582,p0442,p1223,p1611,p1000,b1246,u2200,u2 197,b2309,b1940,u1260,u1027,b2312,u1027,p1774,b131 8,c1277,u2523,b1947,b1264,b1676,b1265,b1242,b1262, b2796,

 

Can you answer the questions above? You need to give us some clues.

 

Don't idle.

 

[QUOTE=Norri;2359964] it runs very well and at red lights it drops in rpm and then shuts off as if I flipped the key. Sometimes it just shuts off and other times it says dsc at fault and engine system at fault.

 

Have you checked the condition of your battery? With a litany of DTCs and DSC popping up, making sure your battery is up to snuff is always a first step in the troubleshooting process....

 

Hi Jake,

We're not trying to bust your butt, but more details will REALLY help. You answered a little bit about how and when the engine dies, and then threw in a couple more tantalizing clues about the accompanying fault messages. That would have been good to know from the very beginning. And you still haven't said boo about the history of the car, such as when this problem started, recent work, your favorite color, etc.

Back to the codes you listed, here's some good news. Most of them won't be related to the stalling issue. The codes starting with P are Powertrain faults, and are the most likely to be relevant. The codes starting with U and B are generally for things like antiskid, security system, climate control, etc. Unfortunately, I don't have access to decipher the U and B codes, so maybe somebody can chime in with more details. One possibility for which we must be aware is if any of those codes are related to low battery voltage. If so, you should definitely be aware these cars are VERY finicky about low prestart voltage. For example, a DSC or Parking Brake fault is often caused by a failing battery. Lots more info here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...attery-193787/


Back to the P series codes, you can read more details here, including some likely causes:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...tos/P20003.PDF


If I read your laundry list correctly, you had seven P codes:

P0105: A problem with the values from the MAP sensor. More details below.

P1582: This just means more details are stored, not necessarily a fault. IIRC, you need dealer-level equipment to read this additional data.

P0442: A possible small leak in the EVAP system. Fairly common, and not likely to cause stalling.

P1223: Not seeing any mention of this code. Can you please double check in case it is important?

P1611: This if a possible failure within the Engine Control Module. This is a VERY rare fault and I wonder if it was spuriously flagged due to low voltage, not necessarily the ECM itself. Please don't convince yourself of doom and gloom. I bet this is nuisance message.

P1000: Another non-fault. It just means the OBD monitors have not completed their testing.

P1774: A potential fault with the shift lever mechanism. Similar to P1611, I wonder if this was a spurious code due to low voltage.


For P0105, the first cause listed is an air leak between the air filter and throttle body. If you have the V6 engine, please see this thread, starting around post #32:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...2/#post1934812

That may not be your exact scenario, because that damage was causing different codes. However, it's quick and easy to rule out, so please take a look.

Given the chance to spend your time and money, I'd suggest several things:

1) First and foremost, pour yourself a cup of coffee and write us a small novel about your ownership history, recent repairs, etc. I can't stress this strongly enough.

2) Check for damage on the intake tube between the air filter and throttle body.

3) Put a voltmeter on the battery and check the voltage BEFORE start. On a 2003+ model, you want to see 12.6v or above. This is a VERY high standard, and is well above what is required for the starter system to get the crankshaft spinning at a normal clip. Don't judge the battery condition based solely on starter speed.

4) Start the engine and measure the voltage at the battery. You should see approximately 14.5v right after start, tapering down to 13.5ish after a few minutes.

5) Come back and report what you find. I just spent about 45 minutes doing all this research. It's offered for free (and worth every penny), but if you aren't going to do anything with it, I expect you to come to my house and do 45 minutes' worth of yard work to make up for it. (It's in the Terms and Conditions from when you signed up for the forum.)

 

Thank you so much for all the effort you put in. So I just recently bought this car and this is the history it was a company for 15 years then it was sold to a guy who had it for 2 years then sold to the dealership I bought it from in Panama City Florida. The car looked, smelled and ran like it was kept in great condition so I bought it. After having it for 2 days it started acting up. I got the battery checked and it is a brand new battery installed in January this year. I love this car and would hate for it to have something majorly wrong with it. I’m going to take it to be seen by a mechanic soon. I think I’m going to replace the fuel filter I have seen others with my problem. I also have a hunch that the dealership replaced the battery in hopes that it would fix whatever problem the car had. They also purposely put little gas in the car so I wouldn’t test drive it to far to find out. ( just a hunch ). Also context about my self since you all have been so helpful. I am 19 years old I am in the u.s military and my favorite color is green and don’t worry the color of my jag is blue and it is staying that way haha.

 

Ah, making some progress. Let me piece together the clues. A young man in the Redneck Riviera, behind the wheel of his brand new ride. Not just any car, but basically Sex on Wheels. Makes a Bitchin' Camaro look like a Renault Alliance:


Now PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE tell us you spend those two aforementioned days driving inappropriately, showing off to your buddies, and chasing women of questionable moral character. We will accept nothing less. Under no circumstances are you to tell us you parked the car for those first two days of ownership. We would lose all respect for you.

But then after two glorious days, something changed. Did you fill the tank with questionable quality fuel? Or maybe you ran the fuel level way down and picked up some crud from the bottom of the tank while doing donuts in the parking lot of a strip club at 3 in the morning? Maybe you accidentally bought low octane fuel instead of the premium that is required? Maybe you intentionally bought low octane fuel cuz some mouth-breathing buddy said it didn't matter? Lots of possibilities, the trick is confirming the car was indeed running well and then figuring out what triggered the change.

​​​Another thought that comes to mind: 68k is very low mileage for an 18 year old car. That means it spent much of its time parked, and only driven occasionally. The fuel pumps on these cars are well known to act up after long periods of inactivity. Don't just rush out and replace it, but do keep that possibility in mind.

​​

 

Nah, I doubt it, but this link may help you:

A good resource when you're convinced somebody is trying to rip you off


It's very likely the old battery was on its last legs, and so they popped in a new one to avoid any trouble getting the car started for a test drive. Unless you're a Jag enthusiast/masochist, most folks don't realize how finicky these cars can be about batteries, so I doubt they were trying to fix (or hide) some major issue. Same with the nearly empty tank. I've seen that at many dealers. It's very aggravating, but it's them being cheap, not trying to limit your test drive.

So I got to thinking more about your car today. I spend about 30 minutes, so you're up to 1:15 for yard work. With such low mileage, I wonder if some normal wear/tear items are still original. The fuel filter comes to mind, for example. Not sure what the scheduled replacement interval is, but for all we know it could be original. Same with the spark plugs, as they are supposedly good for 100k miles. That was mainly just a marketing ploy, and the plugs could theoretically last that long under optimal conditions, but few actually do. (I can't tell you how many times I've heard the plugs must be good because they don't have 100k miles on them yet...) The coils are another known item to weaken with age. The coils may not have totally failed yet, but they may be putting out a relatively weak spark.

What I'm trying to say is before you convince yourself that your new car is a lemon, with some outrageously expensive problems unscrupulously hidden by the dealer, think about the age of the poor car and give it some lovin'. Mileage isn't what always kills such parts, plain old age can be a factor, too. You may have a series of minor (and easily correctable) issues that all together are causing the rough running. Treat your baby to new spark plugs, a fuel filter, an air filter, maybe a set of coils, etc. For coils, do NOT purchase the no-name $39 Chinese set on eBay. We have heard many a tale of woe with such parts, so always stick with quality name brands such as Motorcraft, Denso, NGK, etc. Stay away from Fling Dung, Wok Hoam, or even the house brand from discount chains.

After that, try giving the poor old girl a good (insert name of ethnic group here) tune-up. Take her out on the freeway when the roads aren't crowded, so you can give that engine a good sustained workout. After all those years of limited usage, you may have lots of carbon built up in the cylinders, piston rings not fully seating, etc. You'd be amazed what a good prolonged freeway run can do for an engine that has lived a cushy life for too long. Don't abuse the poor thing, but nothing but loafing along can be tough on an engine.

Don't forget to check the battery voltage, too, both before and after start. I'd be tempted to rig up a voltmeter so you can read it while driving. I have one of those little doohickeys (sorry about such technical terms) that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket to keep an eye on the charging system.

 

You have been such a great help sir. I wish that I could come do some yard work for you. Taking it to a shop Monday to get her a new fuel filter and air filter.

 

So the throttle body needed reset and now replaced. To replace it, it will cost 646 dollars is that a good price? Or am I getting screwed. Yours truly Jake

 

It all depends. Do you trust this shop's diagnosis? Do you get a refund if replacing the throttle body doesn't fix the problem?

Is that price for a new or a used throttle body? Or refurbished with a guarantee? If that's what the car needs, that is not outrageous. I'm just not convinced that is what is needed. So a big part of the equation is does the shop stand behind their diagnosis? Or are they just making an expensive guess with your money?

Not all problems will set a fault code, so maybe the shop is right, but none of the codes listed point towards the throttle body. Sadly, you may find yourself slowly going broke if paying someone else for maintenance work. Myself, I'm cheap as can be, and do nearly all work myself. Call me Mr. Vegas, but for a throttle body, I'd gamble $100 on a used unit from eBay and do it myself.

Before trying that, I'd still lean towards cleaning up some possibly neglected items such as a fuel filter, spark plugs, etc. Even if those items didn't fix it, they still were likely due for replacement, so wouldn't be wasted money.

Also, I'm still curious about battery voltage, especially before start and as the engine is acting up.

 

Any updates?

Misty (probably just her stage name) is patiently hoping you'll come back and give her a ride home after her shift.