Ahhh..., but some people in competitive motorsports do this deliberately. New rotors are thrown onto a burner car and run hard for a few hundred miles before being extracted for re-machining and installation in the competition vehicle.

The purpose of the exercise is to let the rotor stabilise through multiple heat stress cycles.

 

I know this is an old post, but I'm getting ready to change my front pads (06, 3.0 S-tpye) and was wondering if there is anything different I need to know about. I've changed pads on a few different vehicles, and most recently disc on my motorcycle. They seem pretty stright forward, but I haven't even taken the tire off to take a look. Oh, and I did buy that cube, which when it came in it was a bit bigger than what I expected. I also got the same pads Jon did awhile back, Wagner ThermoQuiet semi-metallic front pads from rockauto.com.

Thanks in advance.

-Ron

 

Ron, the fronts are pretty straight forward (ha ha no pun intended). Seriously since you have done front pads on other vehicles you won't have a problem on your S Type.

BTW you do not need the cube for the front brales, only the rears.

 

+1 Ron, the fronts are a pice of cake especially if you don't change the rotors, even if you do there are no big surprises.

 

Make sure the calipers slide freely on the two transversal pins. Remove, clean and regrease if there any any signs of sticking. Inspect the inside face of the rotor. Frequently the outwards facing sides look fine while the opposite side is toast.

 

Well I get the vehicle up on jack stands, take the tires off and after some time I finally get those bolts off the caliper (red locktite from hell on those... and I was turning them the wrong way at first!). I decide I'm going to bleed fluid out (I've heard you need to, don't need to) and hook up a clear plastic hose to bleeder port. I pull the caliper off and drop the pads off the drivers side (they don't look as bad as the dealership made them out to be, but they could be replaced) and grab the new ones from the box; But I see that I've got the wrong pads!!! Put everything back together and guess it will have to wait for another day

UPDATE: I finally got the right pads in, they are in fact the "hook-type" Joyce has listed above as the pads that didn't fit his vehicle. From what I gathered when ordering pads it is important to go by Vin # as there are 2 different sets of pads for an 06 s-type. I wonder why they changed? Anyhow pretty normal brake change for the most part. I'm going to do the rears in a few days.

LAST UPDATE: I did the rears and let me start by saying the first side took well over an hour to figure out (and a trip to autopart store for tool I needed). The second took 10 mins (including fluid bleed). The only bit of advice I have is to forget about that cube, that thing is a pain the butt. Even with the bleeder port opended it just was a pain in the butt trying to compress and turn at the same time. I ended up going to autozone and borrowing their tool and it made the job easy as pie