Ok 2004 S Type
6 codes stored
Has a pretty significant coolant leak somewhere.
Has been sitting for a couple of years,
So far
Replaced the battery,
Flushed and filled coolant,
Flushed fuel system
Replaced brake fluid,
Read stored codes
P0122,0222,0327,1000,1254,1647

So I have a TPS issue and O2 sensor that is bad.
I pulled the throttle body off, cleaned it, the TPS, and the MAF.
Still getting the reduced performance warning, won't rev past 2500

First time diving into a Jag, usually it is domestic US cars and E39 BMW's

Any help,would be appreciated.

I am on Guam so I can't get the re flash.

 

Did you clear them and then which come(s) back first / quickly? Ignore P1000 for now.

The TB is a high precision device I would advise against messing with so hope you've been very gentle and careful. Were you getting the TPS codes before you touched it? And still get them after?

It's tough to check wiring so people tend to just change an O2 sensor. You've not much hope of good progress if any's bad.

 

O2 sensor is $42 (Denso plus shipping) I'll throw a new on it and see. I am just trying to get it running right and find it a new home....

 

so p0122 is low volt circuit 1 on the TP
P0222 is low volts circuit 2 on the TP
P0327 is bad knock sensor.
P1254 is limp home bad spring on the TP

Do I need to pull the ECM and send it stateside for the reflash?
Replace the throttle position sensor?
What about the throttle pedal? Do those go bad and cause things like this?

I had an issue similar to this with a Chevrolet Impala. New throttle pedal fixed it.

 

Or you've a wiring-type issue (quite likely - peruse circuit diagrams) or possibly water getting into the PCM (remove glovebox and you may be able to tell).

 

ok looks like I am looking at the pcm first, easier to see right off the bat.
this thing has not been a DD for 3-4 years, trying to get it back to daily driver shape... drive it for a few months then pass it off as I leave the lovely island of guam.

also dealing with a BMW that keeps blowing a fuse that covers central locking, power mirrors, and the power windows... I love electrical issues!
why couldn't it be a vacuum leak?

 

Well the bmw's issues are resolved.

 

For what it's worth, I just cured a whole lot of stops and no starts on an S Type yesterday with just a tie wrap on the wiring plug to the throttle motor. It didn't throw any codes at all, but would not start every time. The only indicator is while cranking over the sound of the starter would change because the closed throttle was preventing compression in the motor. It would sound like it was free spinning, which it was.

 

Has a rev limiter so you won't get above 3000 rpm in P or N.
.
.
.

 

with the reduced power fault it wont rev past 2500 in gear either.

 

PCM is not wet

 

Exact same codes come back when cleared? Which first & how soon?

N.B. TP is not accelerator.

 

fly by wire throttle is an electronic pedal, giving the throttle body motor throttle angle. throttle position sensor tells pcm if the motor and pedal are in sync.
I understand the "how" now if I could just troubleshoot the "why isn't this jackwagon british POS not working?"
or some more things to look at. I am getting better with the whole electronic troubleshooting thing after getting almost everything on the BMW fixed.

Now on to some British engineering for headaches and a propensity to drink too much beer looking for an epiphany.

 

P0327 and P1647 pop right away.
Clearing codes, and leaving the battery disconnected for several hours does nothing, before I even start it I get the restricted performance warning.
Apparently I need to replace bank 2's knock sensor.

Right side in the car or facing the car?

 

Oh and the parking brake doesn't work, says there is a parking brake fault too.
Does this car have a self diagnostic mode on the display like a BMW?
Would be very handy for the doc, parking brake etc etc

 

All directions for cars are as if standing behind, facing forwards. (Same as sitting in the car except when you're looking backwards.)

P0327 seems to be a knock sensor-related fault - see workshop manual, free download, for all known causes, diagnosing, etc.

Many times the EPB gets upset due to a failing or low charge battery. Ensure good battery, recalibrate EPB.

The other common causes all relate to lack of EPB maintenance....

 

Did a comprehensive reading on EPB issues and did the reset.
Now down to knock sensor, wicked coolant leak and O2 sensor.
Going to replace the knock sensor and the radiator cap and see what that leaves me with....

 

Been a minute since I have had time to play with the kitty,
Replaced the radiator cap. No more coolant leak.
Have a new knock sensor and don't know where to put it.
I have a Mac so the free download is useless to me.



After poking around a bit I discovered these bloody sensors are installed UNDER THE FREAKING INTAKE MANIFOLD!!!!!!

So since there is no DIY for this I have started to take pictures and Will attempt to write up a decent step by step plan with pictures on what to do.


Yeah I got the intake off, sensor swapped and remembered I didn't take pictures
No DIY for this one

 

You can get it as a PDF cheaply from ebay.

 

For what it's worth, to trouble shoot the knock sensor, you need not actually change it. Only disconnect the wires from it, and plug in the new one. You can wrap the new one in some rags and tie it off somewhere to see if that is indeed your issue. That is if your engine is really not knocking.