You shouldn't need to replace the boot unless it is torn. The clamp on the inner part of the boot will need to be replaced as you will have to cut or pop it off. I typically use a large zip tie or similar when replacing them.

You shouldn't need a special tool since you can access it from underneath the car rather easily. The tool is very helpful when replacing inner tie rod ends on vehicles that have the steering rack running through the sub-frame or have very limited access. As mentioned, it is just threaded in; so just be sure to turn it the right (or should I say left?) way. They can be a little stuck sometimes, so you might need a big pair of pliers or a pipe wrench or something. To remove the outer tie rod end, just loosen the jam nut first, remove the nut on top at the end and hit the knuckle with a hammer and it should fall out.

You will very likely need an alignment after replacing the tie rod end (or ends). Tie rod ends are a wearing part, they are basically ball joints on your steering rack. They have a plastic sleeve around the metal ball inside the metal housing. Over time the plastic wears down and the ball moves around inside the housing.

 

I forgot to add: if you do reuse the boot, you will have to separate the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod end. The smaller opening of the boot will not fit over the inner tie rod end.

 

Soon as the rods arrive, ordered last night, will take pics from start to finish and post them. Hopefully it will go ok. Replacing Inner and outer as Brutal suggested.

 

Amadauss as already stated unless torn the boots do not need replacing and that is the correct boot,zip ties are what i use.

 

Very detailed QuartzStypeR awesome post should help a lot of folks

 

be sure to count the turns to take off each outer tie rod and put back the same number of turns. that way youll be close enough to drive for an alignment. Also break the lock nuts loose first and work the inner tie rods where it threads into the outers. If theyre rusted youll have fun if you dont do this first.

 

Well the tie rods arrived today so going to give it a go tomorrow. Here's a pic of what came without the new rubber boot not in the photo. Will take pics of the whole process and post.

 

You might want to use some lock-tite or similar on the inner tie rod where it threads into the rack just to be on the safe side. Remember to put the boot on before you put the outer tie rod end on .

 

Ok, the car is up on jack stands and for the life of me cannot get that inner rod off the steering rack where it connects. I had an issue trying to turn the lock nut on the inner so thought if I take the outer tie rod off first, then when turning the inner the whole thing will just go with it. Finding the round bearing inside the rod is very loose so it can be moved a great deal unlike the new one I want to put on. First want to confirm it is a counterclockwise turn which I am 99 percent sure it is. I finally took off the outer tie rod that attaches at the wheel hub and both rods are still together still attached because the lock nut is also being difficult to move. I am concerned if I continue to apply pressure on the inner rod I might cause an issue with what the inner is connected to. I am finding a 1/16 inch of play now while trying to take the inner off and I am not sure if its ok for that movement or am I causing an issue inside the steering with the force? Here is a pic:

 

Youll need heat if theyre locktited. Is there a spot inside the joint on the shaft you can hold with another wrench or cough cough vise grips?

 

As you're using various tools on the rack and inner tie rod, be very careful not to nick the machined surface of the rack as this may cause the hydraulic seal on that side to eventually fail.

The rack is held in place by the pinion and can take a considerable amount of punishment as the car is being driven. With that in mind, you will need to get as long a spanner (wrench) as you can on the flat surfaces of the inner tie rod and use as much muscle as needed to get the threads to move, which may also require using another spanner on the end of the first one for additional torque.

NBCat

 

Ok, finally realized this is not going to work so thought heat like Brutal said but did not want to mess with that so remembered that tool someone mentioned and went to the zone and they rent out a tool just for something like this. Here is a pic:



Measurement on the inner tie rod is 1 5/16"


I was also having a very difficult time getting the lock nut off the other end of tie rod (screwed clockwise to loosen) so thinking ok have to try heat on that one but then already have new boot which I ordered and had already cut the old one off, why not just sawzaw the rod off, and then it would allow me to use this tool because outer rod would now not be in the way to get inner off. Start cutting and stop to recharge the battery on saw and I am looking at the old and new boot and realize Oh no, they do not look the same. Here is a pic:



I ordered the right boot but the guys at the company were I got the tie rods put the wrong boot in the bag. And so I call them (have been great by the way, simple mistake of putting wrong boot in bag) and they tell me they don't have it in stock and would take about three days even if I expedite it. So I am better off getting it at dealer who can get it for me by Sat morning which I ordered. I did not want the car sitting on the jack stands the whole time so I put the tire back on and lowered the jack. Don't think its an issue sitting on the tire without tie rods in as long as I don't move the car, right? So that's were I am. Probably going to change the fuel filter while I wait because it is in the same location.

 

Where the inner tie rod attaches to the steering it had some grease inside and thinking should put some in so if anyone can recommend the type to pack in, will do so when I put the new boot on.

 

I suspect molybdenum but someone likely can say for sure.

 

The best type of grease to use is in this instance would be constant velocity joint (c.v. joint) grease, which is able to stand up to heat and will stay relatively soft even in colder temperatures. It can be purchased in small quantities at most parts houses.

NBCat

 

Well finally finished. Here is a breakdown of everything along with pics. The original tool I got from the zone would not work. Would not go over the ball of the inner rod to get to the thread. Called Advanced auto and they had a tool that worked. Pic of it along with the case.

When I picked up the boot this morning at dealer, assumed the clamps would come with it considering it cost me 95 dollars with tax! No clamps and I did not want to wait for them to order so I improvised with the boot as shown by cutting some notches off the boot to accommodate another type of clamp. Remember to put the clamp in place before attaching the breather tube

Like Brutal said make sure I count the turns when screwing off the outer boot but in this case because I cut it off I just matched up the grooves showing on the cut piece with the new one when I put it on. Still going for a alignment tomorrow morning.

 

@Amadauss

Did what Bobco suggested not work for you?

 

Great job Mike, congrats!

Thank you for taking the time to post pictures along with the write up.

FAQ'd

 

I would guess it could have worked if I were able to get the inner rod off without using that tool to do so. In order to use that tool which I would recommend to anyone doing this job(its a free rental), I had to have the tire off and still turn the wheel all the way to the front. Although the inner rod will move once taken apart from the outer, the nut on the rod which is part of the rod is stationary and has to be accessed going straight in with that tool as you can see on the pics, its length offers the added muscle to get that nut off. If I were able to put the car on a lift, would have been easier to do and maybe not needing the tool because I could have used more strength to take the inner off with just a large open box wrench. With it on jack stands, it was to difficult to get enough power with a wrench to break the bond of the inner rod. I have a large pipe I have in my tool box when needed to break any tight bolts putting it on the end of anything I might use for extra leverage, but unable to do this under the car on stands. No where to put it.

 

Amadauss;
Your experience matches mine exactly and that's why I posted the picture of the inner tie rod tool. I still don't don't see how people change it without using it??

I have changed them on a number of cars and always needed the special tool so I finally purchased one. Yes make sure you get a range of sizes. Most tools come with at least 3 different crows-foot wrenches.

Was the new inner tie rod self supporting or does it flop down when you let go of it?

Thanks for reporting back!
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