The P0193 code comes up periodically(high input at fuel rail pressure sensor) and the acceleration of the car is kind of erratic. Sometimes the revs go up quickly and sometimes it's kind of sluggish. I'm hoping that a new fuel rail pressure sensor will do the trick, make the car run better and more consistent and also stop the codes too. Hopefully the wires are fine, I don't want to deal with that.
If anyone has changed the fuel rail pressure sensor, I'd like to know what the procedure is to change it. At least it's right in the front and easy to get to. I only found how to test it, but not replace it in the repair manual. Any input would be appreciated.

 

i have only changed a v8 one . if it's the same set up ,
then be sure to release the fuel pressure via the schrader valve before releasing the retaining screws . it just has two o-rings to seal it in .
so un-do it , and pull it out .

 

Thanks a lot for the input. My car has a NA V8. What and where is the Schrader valve? Can you also relieve the fuel pressure by removing the relay for the fuel pump and trying to start the car and run it until it dies if I can't find the Schrader valve? Do you put anything on the o rings to the fuel rail and other connections or put everything back together dry? Did replacing your sensor affect how the car runs at all?

 

Schradar valve is like a Tyre valve on the RHS rear of the fuel rail . & yes removing the relay and starting it will work also ,
you should use rubber grease , locktite 515 or some rubber safe lube on the o-rings.
oh yes night and day difference. My reg Was not working

 

I thought that I'd wait and see how the car drives for a while with the new fuel rail pressure sensor before I gave my verdict. The sensor was easy to replace, I ended up using Vaseline to lubricate the Orings. The Schradar valve was over some wires so I didn't want to mess with it, expecting gas spraying all over the place. After letting the car sit over night, the old one came out with no pressure left in the system. I got a NTK sensor, made by NGK and it works great. For anyone wanting to replace this sensor or any other, don't get a cheapo one! I think that most of the third party electronics on the car were originally Denso or NGK. No more P0193 codes and the throttle response is better and more consistent. The kick-down on the transmission works all the time, instead of once in awhile like before, I didn't expect it to affect that too. I guess that it's all tied together. It goes like a proper Jaag now.

 

don't drop the small bolts. theyre not ferrous metal so you cant pick them up with a magnet if they fall under the intake

 

So true, on modern cars if you drop something, it goes into a bottomless pit. I stuffed rags under the fuel rail, you only drop things when there's nothing to catch them. I usually stuff rags to catch things and fluids when it will help.

 

Taking a look through this thread and thankful we have owners experiencing the same issues. My X350 4.2 V8 has been seemingly misfiring recently, worst being in idle but stumbles on initial acceleration. However it took a few days for codes to finally pop up to help narrow things down (Have a decent scan tool that’s Jag specific, not the most expensive though it’s an Ancel) On regular OBD/non communication mode, I got a cylinder 1 misfire code and P0193 but no misfire code when communicating directly with the car. The P0193 code present both ways. Ok ☺️ I put on a cheap aftermarket FPR on roughly 3 months ago after the previous one cracked and it worked fine up until a few days ago I noticed the fuel pressure go from 380 KPA in idle(I believe this to be normal?) to 405-420 KPA and the P0193 code. I have a used FoMoCo regulator I got from the yard , I’m just wondering if anyone who had the same issue had a specific cylinder misfire with it as well and also if this could be potentially related to the fuel pump being on its way out. Thank you ! And sorry for the long read in an old thread 😆

 

To begin with take the fuel rail guard off the back of the engin. Next remove two bolts that hold the pressure regulator onto the fuel rail. The plug for the pressure senso can be rotated so you can easily push the latch in and slide the plug from the sensor. The vacuum line can be slid off next but it is imperative that the line remains in the connection and vacuum tube remain together. Just slide the old fuel rail out and replace with new one. Be sure and make sure the line is pushed all the way into the vacuum connector. Plug in the new sensor and call for some take out.

 

Vaseline is petroleum based and does not play well with rubber. As stated in the above quoted post, use some sort of a specific rubber lube

 

I use Sil-Glyde for rubber and many other applications as well.

 

Hi Catmobile, I am also getting P0193 plus PO174 from time to time. How long of a job is to replace the fuel pressure sensor?

 

That may be 2 faults but fix one and see.

 

How complex is it to take access the back of the fuel rail to replace the regulator?. Do I need to remove alot of hoses, and covers ? Thanks