The misfire codes are due to bad maf screwing up fueling....the other code i would disregard for now....genuine denso maf could be as high as 300 depending on vendor.....but well worth it....as long as all is good with your intake piping and maf sealing point, everything points to maf....use the jepc online parts catalogue to get the maf part number.....every engine management sensor on an str is unique to an str....a lot of parts stores do not realize the huge difference in str and na vehicle parts....best to use jaguar specific vendors that know their stuff ....many members can attest to this, including myself, by learning the hard way

 

This is one main problem. Never even fired. Defect, faulty whatever the issue ****ed up a valve or retainer something. I’m getting 0 compression from the cylinder from which it came from. That cylinder will never fire again. Now it’s time to consider a rebuild or swap. Thank you all for your time. So much for that feeling of being hyped when you’re so close to getting a car you love fired up and running.

 

Well, before you start thinking the worst, which I don't blame you, maybe brutal or motorcarman will chime in with some advice.....between the two of them, they have seen everything

 

oh crap . That is just the worst luck .
ive seen this before . It’s gutting !

if I were you I would remove the cam cover . to find with a strait edge which valve is not closed flush with the other valves .
then remove (I suspect exhaust manifold) or intake if it’s that valve .
chances are the small electrode is stuck to the carbon on the back of the valve , holding the valve open .
using a bore scope also to see in there .
you may be able to dislodge the electrode with compressed air or implement .
and remove it with a magnet .
if the bore scope shows no sign of the valve contacting the piston . You should be good to just remove the peace and carry on .
may I ask what brand of spark plug that is so we can all avoid this ?
thanks .

 

I spent a lot of time obsessing and going over thoroughly ever piece of this car lol. I’m not gonna give up just like you said i will take it apart and see what the malfunction may be. Really really bummed out it’s been hard enough not having transportation. But i think i’ll get a cheap daily and slowly repair this car. Mathis car interior and exterior is 10/10 with 63k on the dash. I can’t see getting rid of it to a junket for $200/300. I will do whatever it takes. Datsports, is this all possible to do without taking the engine out ? i don’t have access to that. Being where the plug broke off should I work in that area? Do so have to worry about the valves or retainers or can area?

 

Is it possible to tag them somehow? Get there attention to see if they have any ideas? First i’ll follow Datspsorts suggestion.

 

Sorry i’m a little everywhere right now. It was an NGK iridium that the owner before me kid my age had installed. Honestly i think it was either the install or gapping process. i really couldn’t tell you no one would b that naive to put a plug in that breaks. You know how hard it is to break those?

 

I kinda took a day or two off after that. You think putting in 7 plugs and firing it up maybe otta dislodge that piece right out the block upwards where the plug goes? I get that idea from stories of people breaking thread the bottom of the plug off in there with no way to get it out and just starting the car and having it shoot out. Dangerous yes but seems to work. At his is a very tiny piece we are talking about so i’m trying to grasp exactly where it could get stuck to where the piston or valve or the whole process would be halted. Obviously that plug never fired. So i need to get it to fire. Also i’ve seen and heard recently a lot of stories of screws falling in there people dropping bolts and never seems to do much damage the engine processed it and found them in the oil pan later lol... i don’t know what to say i’m just hoping for a stroke of luck with this one. Thank for the continuous help guys. Will be opening her up soon enough.

 

I suspect, as already suggested, that the broken off piece is holding a valve open.

You might want to acquire a borescope, or endoscope and have a look into the cylinder bore to try to ascertain if any damage has been done. For well under $100 you can get an endoscope that interfaces with your smartphone. If you work on cars,they can be very handy!

 

S-type owner is right .

you need to check for damage and above all find the electrode and remove it .
do not start that engine until the piece is found and remove it !
the damage that little piece can cause could be un-repairable.
you need to read my last post and understand it .
And work methodically.
if it’s above you - then get it to a shop via truck or
trailer .
at the moment worst case for you would be a scratched bore and bent valve ,
And maybe removal of head required .
if you start the engine with that piece in there you could junk that very expensive engine .
don’t do it .

BTW sweet looking car .

 

She dropped a valve seat.

 

Back in the rebuild process has been a little. quick question. what is this 6 pin male contraption for on the throttle body??

 

It's drive by wire, so motorised TB and fail-safe sensors (i.e. 2 of them, cross-checked).

High-precision, special coating on the TB, clean very gently.

 

I found that plug in with no where to go because the factory house has been removed for the after market air intake. What should i do with it?

 

Well cars back together. Still receiving the 3 same codes that started this thread lol.... I’m gonna try a new MAF demos hopefully even tho it’s brand new. If y’all could revisit the top threads and see what else you could offer. Car fired right up after head gasket change and installing the head back on from the machine shop to fix the valve seat. She ran then died ran then died. Now barley wants to start. Like i said got the same 3 codes P0102, P0113, P2627. The first 2 obviously are the MAF and IAT because they are integrated. The air cleaner i’m sure is that loose plug with no where to go

 

Denso MAF***** I did the whole job myself minus the machined valve seat and decking and i’ll tell you... the placement of these bolts parts and hoses is a nightmare. now i feel i can tackle anything with the fact that she fired up first try. Just fine tuning now and fixing these old codes. I have learned a lot in the process.

 

First off, great job on the repair....removing the head looks spooky.....getting everything back together and in the right place has got to be satisfying.....the only way i would know to get rid of the air filter code is to get a new or used solenoid, plug it in and tie it out of the way....i do not know enough about the wiring to say a jumper wire would do the same....i am thinking the 2 wires are 12 pos with key on and 12 volt neg switched by the ecm ...if that is the case, then a jumper will only short out....the solenoid may be a stand alone item or part of the main airbox body as far as availability goes.....check to find that out and go from there

 

there is no need to fix this code .
my car has had this code for 6+ years since the last owner stuck a pod on it .
it does not need repair . as some codes are for reference only ,--- / no mil / no restricted performance . no problem

 

Honestly i would really like to post a how too. Basically on how to get too the head gasket or head removal. It’s all very fresh and will always be since it’s done. Taking it apart with no manual JTIS or videos was long. Putting it back together was effortless seeming. For the users it may help in a lot of situations. I for one never got the chance to download the JTIS as i don’t have access to a computer. Also to prevent that time to source and download and print whatever. It’ll just be there black and white as I wish more people would just do. I wish when a question was asked they simply gave the answer right then and there with the how too and maybe some pics and diagrams if they had the content instead of saying “go here download this” or hearing 10 different inputs. Ya know? that’s just my opinion. A thread with every step on how to get here there or wherever. I don’t know just a basic step by step.

 

As for my car. She started first crank after the rebuild then died. So here’s where i am. Pulled the spark plugs i’m gonna be honest they were $3 NGKs that had the same gap the car needs. Tight on money after all this lol. They were wet with fuel? So they aren’t sparking or burning it off. Any ideas? All of them were. Dried them off still no spark. Thinking maybe I flooded just a little. Gonna let dry. Was gonna crank engine with plugs out as i did with one and saw a mist blow out. Starter is brand new, fuel pump hums when keys turned and spark plugs have fuel on them. So works clearly. So is that lean in term? Pressure regulator or what? I’m going to test my coils. But i don’t believe a car wouldn’t start because of a bad coil or two it would just shake violently depending. But maybe i do need higher sparking or hotter plugs?? could that be why it won’t burn or spark? instead of the really fine tip on the plug these are really thick and flat. But the car did crank first try ??? so confused there and cranked a couple times after but once it stalled the last time it won’t start again. I’m gonna charge battery too to make sure.

So going to test ignition coils, not sure what else from there. What would prevent a car from starting. There is now a denso MAF in the car. What sensors/parts would stop the car from turning over when it’s right there. It’s got fuel. not sure how much less or a lot but it’s there. Spark may be a issue from those plugs, i just don’t know.. i’m living breathing sleeping this car, sweating, bleeding, and don’t wanna say crying.... yet... but what do you guys think. You all have been very helpful it is appreciative.