awsome, i look forward to your results, especially about the pulley. What mods have you done so far?

I've got an ELM 327 obd II reader - and i've been using ProScan to pull the stats.

Yeah, i still have the factory pulley on. I've got the 2.5 pulley waiting for me to install it. I want to get a lower temp thermostat and add some water wetter (definitely will do some temperature readings) before i put the pulley on.

It looks great. Is that the factory MAF tube?


Ok, i got the breather hose connected to the intake tube, and i wrapped the aluminum pipe in heat retardant wrap. Here's a comparison SS... factory tube are the gray lines, new tube is in color.

 

so far its just been the mina intake (which you are thankfully are proving to be a waste of time), and replaced the exhaust (mufflers and tips only, magnaflow). I have ordered the low temp thermostat, the 2.5lb pulley from Eurotoys, an x-pipe for the exhaust, and will try to replicate your intake here. Will make pulls in between each and see what happens and go from there.

 

I had to use the factory MAF tube because the Mina Gallery MAF tube was crap. I just cut off the air cleaner housing and attached the cone filter.

 

it's been about 12 days and so far no check engine lights...

here's the finished product

 

Very cool. Did the heatwrap make a difference on any of your temperatures?

 

Looks good, just one more thing, the tube you are using as engine breather seems to have a larger ID than the original. This could cause an imbalance in the vacuum/overpressure of the engine, and could cause a higher oil consumption. Better to use the original tube, or one that offers the same amount of resistance, try blowing thru it and see if you have a difference between the current pipe/connection and the original plastic ribbed pipe.

Andre.

 

Very good point..

 

to the touch it does feel cooler after driving, however in reality according to the scanner, not much difference in intake temps.

the tube is larger, but where it is connected to the new aluminum tube is the same size

 

blaksplash, I was reviewing your OBD scans using the Proscan software and I have become a little unsettled. Your car seems to be boosting pretty well (14PSI). The only thing is, you have the factory pulley correct?

I have been using Proscan to monitor my car, which has the 1.5lb pulley installed, but have only managed to get 13.5psi. I have spiked at 14psi of boost but during a 0-150 run, I monitored a consistent 13.5~psi (give or take 0.2).

When you get your pulley installed, please make note of your boost increase. I was expecting to see 14+psi of boost on my car....now I think I will have to go deal with the Mina Gallery for false advertising....

 

Yup, i'm still currently on the factory pulley. Before i do the pulley swap, i plan to get several baseline readings- intake temperature, manifold pressure, engine coolant temp (i'll be adding a lower temp t-stat along with some water wetter), & MAF flow rate.
The pulley tool has been on back-order but i'm hoping it comes soon! I'm ready to change that sucka out

 

get the 2.5llb pulley from Eurotoys. I still have to spend the time to start the new thread (sorry catching up on work first) but i picked up close to thirty at the wheels over the entire power band and close to 50lb torque, definately feel the difference

 

awesome, that's the one i got.

 

Oh my god.

I remember you mentioned getting this upgrade and dynoing the car. Were you able to take pictures of the supercharger being shaved down? And how tough was it?

 

Was not the most fun of processes, shavings everywhere, this was close to being done before we smoothed it out. used an air tool to slowy grind away and also created a template that screwed into the shaft to make sure it was even all the way around and had enough clearence. When we pulled the old pulley off (with the removal tool) it got a little damaged due to the pressure so we wanted to make sure we didnt have to put the new one on and then have to pull it back off. I will post the rest later this week.

 

new on the left

 

 

Awesome pictures! I am definitely looking forward to your upcoming post about all your modifications.

 

This may be the best post ever!

 

To the OP -

First, let me say, great post! And second, I'm not familiar with Jag ECU's at all, so keep that in mind. But I have worked on many other cars and one thing is that most modern ECU's learn and compensate for the hardware under the hood. So, in my (very uneducated) opinion, your tests aren't as indicative of the mods as they should be. That is not to say that they are meaningless; but to me, (again, not familiar with Jag ECU's) your tests just show details of what you did - change a part, go for a few runs, change a part, go for a few runs, etc.
One of the reasons why they switched to electronic ECU's is so the car can compensate for gas, air, altitude, temp, etc. When the ECU detects a change, it tries to change other things to maintain factory calibration elsewhere. When it has to change things further than it's pre-determined window, it throws a Check Engine light. For example, if the computer has to pull say, 2 deg. of timing to keep the knock sensors happy, and it's programmed, "normal operating" window is only +/- 1.5 deg., it throws a Check Engine light, and possibly/eventually trigger the limp-home mode as it thinks there is a hardware problem. So in this case, it goes into limp-home mode to prevent any further damage to the engine. Assuming the Jag ECU is like most other modern car's ECU's, you'd need to give it time if you change a piece of hardware and NOT reset the ECU. That's why they say to reset the ECU every time you change a part.
Now, on some ECU's even resetting them won't do it, because the car will still be targeting stock values, and eventually (if the part is reliable), it will learn how to compensate for it, and the car will run just like stock. That's why a tune is so important - it resets the target values that the ECU looks for. So in the case of an intake, maybe it won't freak out over higher volume of air, and instead just fuel for it and adjust timing to keep the EGT and knock sensors happy. Make sense? So I'd suggest doing it all again, but with disconnecting the battery for a minute or so between runs. And also doing a baseline by running the stock intake for a little bit, testing it, and resetting the stock system, and testing it again.
Intakes are hard to do well, as the MAF sensor is usually so sensitive to changes. Turbulence can really throw everything off, and you can have the MAF sensor in a less-than-optimal position, so it might read turbulence as volume and send more fuel than is needed. So you end up with a really rich condition and end up losing power. Or the opposite can happen and you end up lean. And bad things happen fast when an engine runs lean.

Anyway, there's my $0.02.

 

Thank you, and i agree completely. However, unless i'm completely mistaken, the data that the sensor sends to the computer will not change over time. It simply sends what it reads. How the computer adjust and compensates over time to the new readings from the sensor will change. i was also trying to provide flow numbers and temperatures from the different setups as well. The only data from the tests that may be inaccurate are for flow - the ones where the mina gallery MAF tube was used. It's tube is smaller, but it uses the same sensor, so the sensor thought it had more airflow than it actually did as Andre pointed out.

oh yeah, and for post 1, on those test i did reset the ecu. I had the battery disconnected the entire time a was changing the parts out. For post 6, i did not reset the ecu before gathering the sensor data for each test. I actually did the tests twice