Interesting Front End Noise- Wheel bearing?
#1
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In the last 10 days or so I have had an interesting noise, but because of the type, I am almost certain that it is the passenger side wheel bearing. Please give me some guidance if my thinking is correct and advice about which part (wheel bearing/hub assembly) to get. They look simple enough to replace.
I first noticed this when i was backing out of the driveway and going down a very slight incline from the driveway to street. I would turn my wheel left so I could back out and then turn the wheel right and do down the street. Once I had the steering wheel about 3/4 of the way to the left I heard a rubbing sound and clicking that went along with the wheel rotating exactly.
I straighten up the car and sound is gone. If I do the same maneuver but the reverse turning the wheel to the right- no sound.
I went down to the cove and went around in a counterclockwise circle and I hear a symmetrical rubbing sound (almost like the tire rubbing against something (except that it is not) slightly metallic and if I turn the wheel far enough to the left, again my click type sound.
It has to relate to the wheel as the more turn to the left put more pressure on the internal part of the suspension and the only things that are turning that consistently are are the wheel (hub and bearing with more weight and that side)) and /or rotor (already checked that and no problem with anything related to brakes).
Any other ideas or suggestions and will the Timken parts fit?
No sound on the road, no problem with steering. Alignment is fine (can take hands off steering wheel at 6-70 and it stays on a straight path). No noises when turning right or left. Usually notice in parking lots or slower speeds when I turn 3/4 or more to the left.
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0. 77.5k
I first noticed this when i was backing out of the driveway and going down a very slight incline from the driveway to street. I would turn my wheel left so I could back out and then turn the wheel right and do down the street. Once I had the steering wheel about 3/4 of the way to the left I heard a rubbing sound and clicking that went along with the wheel rotating exactly.
I straighten up the car and sound is gone. If I do the same maneuver but the reverse turning the wheel to the right- no sound.
I went down to the cove and went around in a counterclockwise circle and I hear a symmetrical rubbing sound (almost like the tire rubbing against something (except that it is not) slightly metallic and if I turn the wheel far enough to the left, again my click type sound.
It has to relate to the wheel as the more turn to the left put more pressure on the internal part of the suspension and the only things that are turning that consistently are are the wheel (hub and bearing with more weight and that side)) and /or rotor (already checked that and no problem with anything related to brakes).
Any other ideas or suggestions and will the Timken parts fit?
No sound on the road, no problem with steering. Alignment is fine (can take hands off steering wheel at 6-70 and it stays on a straight path). No noises when turning right or left. Usually notice in parking lots or slower speeds when I turn 3/4 or more to the left.
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0. 77.5k
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
In the last 10 days or so I have had an interesting noise, but because of the type, I am almost certain that it is the passenger side wheel bearing. Please give me some guidance if my thinking is correct and advice about which part (wheel bearing/hub assembly) to get. They look simple enough to replace.
The bearing and Hub come in a one piece unit, 4 bolts and the speed sensor. Check out the parts list.
I first noticed this when i was backing out of the driveway and going down a very slight incline from the driveway to street. I would turn my wheel left so I could back out and then turn the wheel right and do down the street. Once I had the steering wheel about 3/4 of the way to the left I heard a rubbing sound and clicking that went along with the wheel rotating exactly.
Wheel bearing may be.
Brake pad on disk, how much pad material left.
Bent brake shield, and worn suspension bushes.
Something caught on brake shield, stone etc
I straighten up the car and sound is gone. If I do the same maneuver but the reverse turning the wheel to the right- no sound.
I went down to the cove and went around in a counterclockwise circle and I hear a symmetrical rubbing sound (almost like the tire rubbing against something (except that it is not) slightly metallic and if I turn the wheel far enough to the left, again my click type sound.
Stone or something caught in the brake shield?
It has to relate to the wheel as the more turn to the left put more pressure on the internal part of the suspension and the only things that are turning that consistently are are the wheel (hub and bearing with more weight and that side)) and /or rotor (already checked that and no problem with anything related to brakes).
Any other ideas or suggestions and will the Timken parts fit?
Various makes of wheel hub assemblies. Check out parts stores, on line etc
No sound on the road, no problem with steering. Alignment is fine (can take hands off steering wheel at 6-70 and it stays on a straight path). No noises when turning right or left. Usually notice in parking lots or slower speeds when I turn 3/4 or more to the left.
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0. 77.5k
The bearing and Hub come in a one piece unit, 4 bolts and the speed sensor. Check out the parts list.
I first noticed this when i was backing out of the driveway and going down a very slight incline from the driveway to street. I would turn my wheel left so I could back out and then turn the wheel right and do down the street. Once I had the steering wheel about 3/4 of the way to the left I heard a rubbing sound and clicking that went along with the wheel rotating exactly.
Wheel bearing may be.
Brake pad on disk, how much pad material left.
Bent brake shield, and worn suspension bushes.
Something caught on brake shield, stone etc
I straighten up the car and sound is gone. If I do the same maneuver but the reverse turning the wheel to the right- no sound.
I went down to the cove and went around in a counterclockwise circle and I hear a symmetrical rubbing sound (almost like the tire rubbing against something (except that it is not) slightly metallic and if I turn the wheel far enough to the left, again my click type sound.
Stone or something caught in the brake shield?
It has to relate to the wheel as the more turn to the left put more pressure on the internal part of the suspension and the only things that are turning that consistently are are the wheel (hub and bearing with more weight and that side)) and /or rotor (already checked that and no problem with anything related to brakes).
Any other ideas or suggestions and will the Timken parts fit?
Various makes of wheel hub assemblies. Check out parts stores, on line etc
No sound on the road, no problem with steering. Alignment is fine (can take hands off steering wheel at 6-70 and it stays on a straight path). No noises when turning right or left. Usually notice in parking lots or slower speeds when I turn 3/4 or more to the left.
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S- Type 3.0. 77.5k
Jack her up and with the suspect wheel off the ground and remaining wheels chocked, and the car on a block support of some kind.
Try checking the wheel bearing by holding the wheel at the 18:00hrs (12 & 6) position, vertically and pulling and pushing the wheel.
Then the horizontal (9 & 3) 14:45Hrs. and wriggling the wheel and checking for excessive movement.
You may feel some movement. (or not) Compare with the other good wheel?
Then rotate the wheel and listen for bearing noise, or feel for a roughness in rotation of the wheel. Dry rubbing noise or feel?
Remove the wheel.
Any signs of anything rubbing on the wheel/ tyre on the inside.
Any signs or marks on the brake disc, disc shield.
Check the suspension bushes, for wear, visually, and by giving the suspension arms a good tug, and pull, and check for any sights or feel for excessive movement. a 2" x 4" wooden batton will come in handy for this.
Check the lower shock bush for wear.
Check the shock, and giving it a good pull, for signs of any movement at the top or bottom mount/bush.
Check the tie rod ends, for damage or wear on the bud joint. Extra force on turning could upset it.
Tricky one, yes. But if you do all the above you will rule out some items, and narrow it down.
Changed the wheel hub on mine at 54K miles, no issue with steering just a dry feel to the bearing when turning the wheel when the car jacked up.
Any noise when turning the steering wheel when stopped? Rules out the steering rack and pump noise causing an issue.
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Slacken off the wheel nuts. (lug nuts?)
Jack her up and with the suspect wheel off the ground and remaining wheels chocked, and the car on a block support of some kind.
Try checking the wheel bearing by holding the wheel at the 18:00hrs (12 & 6) position, vertically and pulling and pushing the wheel.
Then the horizontal (9 & 3) 14:45Hrs. and wriggling the wheel and checking for excessive movement.
You may feel some movement. (or not) Compare with the other good wheel?
Then rotate the wheel and listen for bearing noise, or feel for a roughness in rotation of the wheel. Dry rubbing noise or feel?
Remove the wheel.
Any signs of anything rubbing on the wheel/ tyre on the inside.
Any signs or marks on the brake disc, disc shield.
Check the suspension bushes, for wear, visually, and by giving the suspension arms a good tug, and pull, and check for any sights or feel for excessive movement. a 2" x 4" wooden batton will come in handy for this.
Check the lower shock bush for wear.
Check the shock, and giving it a good pull, for signs of any movement at the top or bottom mount/bush.
Check the tie rod ends, for damage or wear on the bud joint. Extra force on turning could upset it.
Tricky one, yes. But if you do all the above you will rule out some items, and narrow it down.
Changed the wheel hub on mine at 54K miles, no issue with steering just a dry feel to the bearing when turning the wheel when the car jacked up.
Any noise when turning the steering wheel when stopped? Rules out the steering rack and pump noise causing an issue.
Jack her up and with the suspect wheel off the ground and remaining wheels chocked, and the car on a block support of some kind.
Try checking the wheel bearing by holding the wheel at the 18:00hrs (12 & 6) position, vertically and pulling and pushing the wheel.
Then the horizontal (9 & 3) 14:45Hrs. and wriggling the wheel and checking for excessive movement.
You may feel some movement. (or not) Compare with the other good wheel?
Then rotate the wheel and listen for bearing noise, or feel for a roughness in rotation of the wheel. Dry rubbing noise or feel?
Remove the wheel.
Any signs of anything rubbing on the wheel/ tyre on the inside.
Any signs or marks on the brake disc, disc shield.
Check the suspension bushes, for wear, visually, and by giving the suspension arms a good tug, and pull, and check for any sights or feel for excessive movement. a 2" x 4" wooden batton will come in handy for this.
Check the lower shock bush for wear.
Check the shock, and giving it a good pull, for signs of any movement at the top or bottom mount/bush.
Check the tie rod ends, for damage or wear on the bud joint. Extra force on turning could upset it.
Tricky one, yes. But if you do all the above you will rule out some items, and narrow it down.
Changed the wheel hub on mine at 54K miles, no issue with steering just a dry feel to the bearing when turning the wheel when the car jacked up.
Any noise when turning the steering wheel when stopped? Rules out the steering rack and pump noise causing an issue.
Nothing wrong with brakes or shield. Have had the common steering wheel sound associated with the additive and probably some small issue related to the bulkhead bushing, but nothing that would relate to the left turning noise coming from the front right wheel area.
I also think I have a minor rubber squeak in what is called the wishbone (actually lower) bush (C2C4438 ) see attached photo(#7).
Someone suggested I repack (with grease) the front bearings, but I do not think that is possible on these types of wheel bearings.
I will check again the tire rods ends ( I assume what you call the bud joint is the one closest to the tire/wheel?).
Iappreciate the thought and time- squeaks are hard and difficult to find and put up with.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks
Tom with noise in Dallas/Plano.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"I went down to the cove and went around in a counterclockwise circle and I hear a symmetrical rubbing sound (almost like the tire rubbing against something (except that it is not) slightly metallic and if I turn the wheel far enough to the left, again my click type sound."
The wear ridge on the Disc, "the rusty outer edge" rubbing on the brake caliper housing. There will be slight wear on the bushes, and indeed some wear on the wheel bearing, may be enough together for the worn front disk to contact with the brake caliper.
Apart from that, a good look and pull at all the front suspension and, brake bits for excessive(slight wear and clearance.)
Have a google search for wheel bearing hub and you will see, not much to be greased in the unit.
The wear ridge on the Disc, "the rusty outer edge" rubbing on the brake caliper housing. There will be slight wear on the bushes, and indeed some wear on the wheel bearing, may be enough together for the worn front disk to contact with the brake caliper.
Apart from that, a good look and pull at all the front suspension and, brake bits for excessive(slight wear and clearance.)
Have a google search for wheel bearing hub and you will see, not much to be greased in the unit.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Do the simple stuff first.
Do you still have the crappy two piece lug nuts? If so please replace them with the solid versions.
Several people have had noise's that were traced to the lug nut sheet metal cover rattling as you drive.
Sealed front hub so no repacking the bearings. I used the Timken brand at about $120 each but it does not sound like a wheel bearing from your description?
Pretty easy to change if the car is not from the rust belt. Otherwise the hub gets locked to the upright due to steel/Aluminum interface corrosion. A slide hammer puller will usually knock it free.
.
.
.
Do you still have the crappy two piece lug nuts? If so please replace them with the solid versions.
Several people have had noise's that were traced to the lug nut sheet metal cover rattling as you drive.
Sealed front hub so no repacking the bearings. I used the Timken brand at about $120 each but it does not sound like a wheel bearing from your description?
Pretty easy to change if the car is not from the rust belt. Otherwise the hub gets locked to the upright due to steel/Aluminum interface corrosion. A slide hammer puller will usually knock it free.
.
.
.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
"I went down to the cove and went around in a counterclockwise circle and I hear a symmetrical rubbing sound (almost like the tire rubbing against something (except that it is not) slightly metallic and if I turn the wheel far enough to the left, again my click type sound."
The wear ridge on the Disc, "the rusty outer edge" rubbing on the brake caliper housing. There will be slight wear on the bushes, and indeed some wear on the wheel bearing, may be enough together for the worn front disk to contact with the brake caliper.
Apart from that, a good look and pull at all the front suspension and, brake bits for excessive(slight wear and clearance.)
Have a google search for wheel bearing hub and you will see, not much to be greased in the unit.
The wear ridge on the Disc, "the rusty outer edge" rubbing on the brake caliper housing. There will be slight wear on the bushes, and indeed some wear on the wheel bearing, may be enough together for the worn front disk to contact with the brake caliper.
Apart from that, a good look and pull at all the front suspension and, brake bits for excessive(slight wear and clearance.)
Have a google search for wheel bearing hub and you will see, not much to be greased in the unit.
I even had a problem with the undercover slightly hitting the back of the tie rod boot and so when I turned the wheel I would hear a pop and a cut of about 1 inch on the plastic piece of the undercover that goes up behind the boot solved the problem.
Thanks again
Tom
Last edited by jazzwineman; 09-30-2014 at 09:35 AM.
#7
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#8
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No/ It was that little piece that comes up directly behind the tie rod boot and it was just slightly rubbing- did not make a hole or anything/
The wonderful dealership in Plano had left it off my car on one aftermarket warranty repair. They put a different one on than my original and then used plastic ties on part of the rear of it. I got home, got under the car and did it correctly. But remember, we should go to them, pay a premium price from crap work and arrogance.
Tom
The wonderful dealership in Plano had left it off my car on one aftermarket warranty repair. They put a different one on than my original and then used plastic ties on part of the rear of it. I got home, got under the car and did it correctly. But remember, we should go to them, pay a premium price from crap work and arrogance.
Tom
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The clicking sound was actually (interesting how sounds with metal can fool you) the undercover on the left hand side hitting the tire rod. I just cut it off and that noise is gone. Thanks again to the wonderful ethical dealership.
I still keep getting, at times, this silly rubber like squeaky sound on the right hand side, but not all the time.
I have inspected everything related to the bushing on tie rids and ball joints, sway bar bushings, struts, strut mounts and so on. Nothing is out of whack (except the rubber on the outer tire rods on both sides has a small break/ crack in them but function normally and no sound and that is a very easy replacement.).
The sound appears at lower speeds and sometimes I can create ti by pushing sown on the front or even lifting up on the front of the car. But only a small movement and then gone.
I have lubricated all the rubber in the area (just to see if the noise will stop- it is in the range of the blackboard fingernail scratching). It seems that on some breaking it just goes away and I can drive 100 miles and never hear it.
It is almost like it is something with the right front brake, bu zero problems with braking, no strange noises and on last check had about 65% left of pads.
What I am missing?
Thanks
Tom in Dallas 78k 2005 s-Type 3.0
I still keep getting, at times, this silly rubber like squeaky sound on the right hand side, but not all the time.
I have inspected everything related to the bushing on tie rids and ball joints, sway bar bushings, struts, strut mounts and so on. Nothing is out of whack (except the rubber on the outer tire rods on both sides has a small break/ crack in them but function normally and no sound and that is a very easy replacement.).
The sound appears at lower speeds and sometimes I can create ti by pushing sown on the front or even lifting up on the front of the car. But only a small movement and then gone.
I have lubricated all the rubber in the area (just to see if the noise will stop- it is in the range of the blackboard fingernail scratching). It seems that on some breaking it just goes away and I can drive 100 miles and never hear it.
It is almost like it is something with the right front brake, bu zero problems with braking, no strange noises and on last check had about 65% left of pads.
What I am missing?
Thanks
Tom in Dallas 78k 2005 s-Type 3.0
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