Jag Dealers and Transmission repair don't go there
#1
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Finally took car to Jag Dealer for service, and I feel I had a Huge waste of time and money, As they told me afterward they don't do any real repair work on the Tranny, and if their's a problem they only swap them out (at $10k). So stay clear of Scottsdale Jag if you need Transmission repair work.
To make matters worst, they told me I had no 5th gear, and they test drove it to verify, My dad asked twice about this point, and wanted to hear explained, how when you use J-shifter or sport mode you can verify with Tach it up shifts to 5th gear, if you shift out of J-shifter or sport mode, Into normal drive mode it switches to 6th gear, you can go back and forth down and up verifying this.
Now in normal drive mode it does switch rather quick from 5th to 6th gear, unless you are hard accelerating from a lower gears then it holds 5th as it revs to 6th, My dad tends to think its just saving fuel, but the service tech told the service agent rep we had no 5th gear at all, and it was going from 4th to 6th, ( we found it hard to believe he spent much time driving ) We couldn't question them directly on this. or ask for a ride through to show our concerns. So what do you think?
Our Ppwk States more than what was said to us, the main points as follows (See photos)- Slips through 5th gear connected IDS, code P0730 set gear ratio fault P0735 set gear fault 5th gear, trans internal fault mechanical fault and or control valve block fault
![](https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1399/jag_ppwk_2_6861d9c9134eb8f324d5a36183a73b43ec687c77.jpg)
![](https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1316/jag_ppwk_1_f9f1c3742f5ae7c3597c04b7398112dea41c5efd.jpg)
#2
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Anyone who has spent time on this forum realizes that taking a transmission issue into a Jaguar dealership is a massive waste of time, money, and effort. Find an indie transmission shop that has significant ZF experience. Your chances are far greater that they will be able to pinpoint the issue for significantly less cost....
And before you zero in on your transmission, always ensure that your vehicle's battery is in top condition and delivering all the power it is supposed to....
And before you zero in on your transmission, always ensure that your vehicle's battery is in top condition and delivering all the power it is supposed to....
The following 2 users liked this post by Jon89:
abonano (10-26-2016),
Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-27-2016)
#3
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-27-2016)
#4
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It's a ZF trans so if a rebuild is in order your looking around $5 - 7K including TC. A replacement valve body (which may fix the Ops issue) will cost around $1,500 - $2,000
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-27-2016)
#5
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BTW, I see 250,000 miles on your S. Did you change the tensioners to the new style and what mileage did you do it? Thanks.
#6
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And yes, I changed the tensioners myself not once but twice to the latest version of the metal tensioners (version 4 if I recall) the first time was around 180K miles. I think they were swapped out before me but they used the damn gen 1 plastic tensioners. I used gen 2 tensioners initially. (Back in 2012/13)
The second time was around 210K miles as I started to notice the clatter noise at start up. Now she's ultra quiet and hauls ***...
looking to get her to 300K miles then I'm retiring her...
The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-27-2016)
#7
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Anyone who has spent time on this forum realizes that taking a transmission issue into a Jaguar dealership is a massive waste of time, money, and effort. Find an indie transmission shop that has significant ZF experience. Your chances are far greater that they will be able to pinpoint the issue for significantly less cost....
And before you zero in on your transmission, always ensure that your vehicle's battery is in top condition and delivering all the power it is supposed to....
And before you zero in on your transmission, always ensure that your vehicle's battery is in top condition and delivering all the power it is supposed to....
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#8
#9
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It might be best to let the shop sell you a remanufactured trans from their sources as you'll know they'll stand behind the unit and their work.
That's what I did on my 00 S Type. A week after they installed their remanufactured trans the rear trans seal was leaking. All covered 100% including labor. No questions asked.
A rebuild might be a cheaper route and I think you can get a warranty as well.
Just my $0.02
#10
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I've been on forum since June, found a lot of good info, had several post over summer for this and other issues, guess I missed warning on dealership, Found a place in Portland, OR that's done a lot of remanufactured ZF 6HP26, mostly for BMW's, for under $3K, only down side is it has to be taken out drained and shipped to them, they provide it at a discount, my area RT cost $300. we thinking about doing it over school break next month. Anyone know where info/video on how to drop Tranny can be found???
Hi LoganR, it all depends on cost. Some shops are sketchy about installing remanufactured trans units (from others or consumer purchased) and you know those companies that sell remanufactured trans require a trans shop to install or they will not honor any warranties.
It might be best to let the shop sell you a remanufactured trans from their sources as you'll know they'll stand behind the unit and their work.
That's what I did on my 00 S Type. A week after they installed their remanufactured trans the rear trans seal was leaking. All covered 100% including labor. No questions asked.
A rebuild might be a cheaper route and I think you can get a warranty as well.
Just my $0.02
It might be best to let the shop sell you a remanufactured trans from their sources as you'll know they'll stand behind the unit and their work.
That's what I did on my 00 S Type. A week after they installed their remanufactured trans the rear trans seal was leaking. All covered 100% including labor. No questions asked.
A rebuild might be a cheaper route and I think you can get a warranty as well.
Just my $0.02
Last edited by LoganR; 10-26-2016 at 10:30 PM.
#11
#12
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Hi,
I am sorry to hear about ur AT problems. AT issues are quite common.
What you can do for little money is to first check the AT oil.
If it is not red anymore but looks brownish and smells burned then you need new clutches and maybe some other parts (depends on damage). Costs around 2k € in Germany.
If oil looks still red and smells like new oil then drain AT and remove (or let remove) the oil pan and check the magnet which collects metal chips from inside AT.
If you don't find ANY metal chips sticking on the magnet you might be lucky.
Then just clean the solenoid pack and the valves assembly, replace the springs, filter and fill up with enough Mercon V then AT could work again.
Wolf
#13