I have a 2001 S-Type 3.0 v6 Se.

A couple of days ago i started getting exhaust fumes in the cabin and the exhaust sounded really loud. i took it to a mechanic who said that the exhaust had come loose from where it connects to the manifold.
He proceeded by cutting of the bolts that secured the exhaust as he couldnt get them off otherwise and he had to take the manifold off in order to get the last bolt off as he said it had snapped off and was still inside the manifold.

Anyway to cut a long story short he fixed it, the fumes were gone and the exhaust seemed fine, it wasnt as smooth sounding as before the problem but i dont know if that is me just being paranoid.

It worked fine for the first day but today on my way to work i was at the trafic lights and put my foot on the gas to accelerate and i had no power, only for a few seconds and i noticed that the revs dipped below what they idle at.

Should i be worried?

what do you think the problem may be?

Ther car details are as follows

S-tYPE 3.0 v6 SE
2001 YEAR OF MANUFACTURE
59k on clock
IN THE UK WEST YORKSHIRE
(I have had the car for two weeks, the guy i bought it from was the original owner who has had the car serviced at jaguar every year since he purchased it, i have had this verified by the garage.)

I would appreciate any help you can offer.

Thankyou in advance.

 

I suggest that you get the code read so that you have some idea of where the problem lies, it may be related to the exhaust or something other

 

Ok so i took the car to a electrician and he connected it up to a code reader and no errors came up.

he said that maybe there is dirt in the system so he gave me this bottle told me to empty the contents into my fuel tank, take the car onto the motorway and drive for 15 miles at 4500 revs.

As soon as i left him my engine light came on, it wasnt on before.

so i took the car onto the motorway and and did as told, the rev counter seemed to stabalise, it still moved if you looked closly but it was better than before. i fueled the car and the engine light went away as well.

until this morning that is when on the way to work it flashed briefly for a few seconds, before going off again....possible problems to arise i wonder?

 

No codes, I would think the electrician had not used a Jaguar Specific code reader, Ideally IDS, the warning light may be related to something other than the exhaust which was fixed?

 

Do UK cars use catalytic converters? If they do, that would be the first place I would look since someone was messing and banging around the exhaust. Failing catalytic converters can cause issues.

 

Yes, we have cats
And emissions tests, too

 

A flashing engine light is indicitive of a misfire in one of your cylinders. You should have a code saved now - like P0301, P030X - These are the OBD codes for a misfire detection. P0301 would stand for "misfire - cylinder 1". Rehook the OBD reader to get the specific code(s).

A flashing engine light is not a good thing. If this isn't rectified you can crap out your cat converter on the side of the engine that has the misfire, which cost big $$$ to replace. I would look into the condition causing the misfiring first - I would start with checking and testing the coil in the offending cylinder - if you see oil in the spark plug well then odds are your coil is toast - you will need new cam cover gaskets and spark well gaskets done or you will have this recurring issue with oil leaking into the spark well - also consider the spark plugs and the IMT O - Rings.

This could be your underlying cause of idling issues you originally reported. Good Luck.

 

As JagV8 said and we also have Gas prices unleaded economy £1.41p - £1.519per litre and Premium £1.485 - £1.649 per litre

 

It's probably cheaper to just buy an OBD tool. ebay or places such as Gendan.

(No equivalent of the free AutoZone.)

The 3.0 has a common hose that leaks but the codes are what you need.

Gas (petrol) is above $8.50 per gallon here.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

Update on the vehicle, light hasnt come on since that first day, but every now and again i get the rev meter dropping four or five times and when it does the car shudders, then its ok for a few minuits then it happens again.

Ive got it booked with Jaguar main dealers next week i just hope nothing goes wrong in the meantime. i will keep you updated.

 

Ok update time.

Had the car checked and it had the code for a missfire in cylinder 5, the mechanic swapped out coil 5 with 6 and told me to come back in a couple of days to see if the misfire has migrated to cylinder 6 or not.

He said this will determine of the coil is faulty or not then narrow the problem down.

Catch is i know for a fact that the coils are new as i know the guy who i purchased the car from and he changed coils on cylinders 4 to 6.

will the engine be damaged with a misfire if left for a couple of days until i can get the car back to him?

P.S i was sitting in my drive and a mate of mine came over to look at the car, he sat in and gave the car some gas, the car was in park at the time, but the revs would only go upto 3000 then cut back again, is that normal?

 

P.s. Car will not rev above 3000 whilst in park or neutral to protect the engine, so perfectly normal

 

Rev limiter

Er, what was the point of revving it, though?

Cats are not quite as delicate as sometimes portrayed but misfires will be damaging bit by bit. Even new coils can go bad especially if not OEM. See what happens next.

However, an OBD tool with "live data" would let you look at fuel trims and they're good for diagnosing such as air leaks. (And then there'd be a point in revving.)

 

LOL i get your point.

i will keep driving of it to a minimum until i can get it back to the mechanic. any suggestions as to where i can get coils for it at a reasonable price, the dealers are bleeding me dry with their prices, i swear they must be vampires lol

 

When the coils were changed was the cam cover and spark plug well gaskets changed? When the coil was swapped was it inspected for oil?

With the age and miles of the car these are wear items. Also the V-6 is well known for vacuum elbow leaks and IMT O-ring leaks. Not expensive for any of it IF you can DIY.
.
.
.

 

As far as coils are concerned try Rock Auto.com or try your luck on Ebay - be sure to stay away from those cheapie coils. Average cost per coil - between $30 - $50 - also keep in mind best bet to invest and change them all. Finally, as I pointed out before if you see any oil in any spark well the gaskets should be changed on that side of the engine or this will be a recurring problem. Peek into the spark well with a strong light - even oil on the base of the spark plug at the bottom of the spark well is a tell tale sign - Good Luck.

 

Ok so i had all six spark plugs checked and changed, all of it was ok according to the mechanic and i had the error codes read again both live and otherwise but no errors came up, no misfire code or anything which is weird as the problem is still there.

I think my next order of business will be to have the coils changed and then have the elbow looked at, the mechanic also mentioned the there is a valve that controls idle timing and fuel or some such that may be sticking, i will get that looked at aswell.

After that it will be the oxygen sensors then after that it will be a sledhammer and murder as i kill the car lol.

 

You could read old threads where we regularly point out the last suspects are the plugs.

Spend time with an OBD tool instead of swapping parts and hoping. Better to get data and be logical than play wallet-roulette. Much cheaper.

 

Sib, if your going down the switching out newer coils for new coils.

I would go ahead and replace the following, it would be fairly inexpensive since you already have to take the intake (Plenum) off anyways:

2-IMT O-Rings
6-Upper Intake Seals (Plenum)
2-Lower Intake Gaskets
1-Vacuum Elbow located under the Lower Intake.

Some will say that its ok to reuse the intake gasket(s), IMO I would not, but what do I know.

 

+1 on JagV8 - spark plugs are typically not the culpret of a misfire. Your mechanic should have the ability to test each coil before you go ahead and change them. There is a specific tool that measures the high voltage output and arc duration of the coil and can detect the slightest misfire the coil is producing.

So, I take it your mechanic found no evidence of oil in the spark plug well?

Good Luck.