Knock on Suspension RESOLVED
#1
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Hi all,
I have a knock that is evident when hitting speed ramps or potholes, but not on uneven surfaces (reducing the possibility of it being drop links).
If I had to stab in the dark, I'd say it was a bottom balljoint.
My question is...What sort of job is it to change just the balljoint, does the arm need to come off? I saw a bloke at work change a pressed in balljoint on a Renault, by knocking it out and then knocking the new one in.
I'm hoping to get the car in the air tomorrow to confirm that it is (or not) the balljoint.
Car is a 2000 (X Reg) S type 3.0.
Berkshire Jag components sell new balljoints for £21.95.
Thanks
Mike
I have a knock that is evident when hitting speed ramps or potholes, but not on uneven surfaces (reducing the possibility of it being drop links).
If I had to stab in the dark, I'd say it was a bottom balljoint.
My question is...What sort of job is it to change just the balljoint, does the arm need to come off? I saw a bloke at work change a pressed in balljoint on a Renault, by knocking it out and then knocking the new one in.
I'm hoping to get the car in the air tomorrow to confirm that it is (or not) the balljoint.
Car is a 2000 (X Reg) S type 3.0.
Berkshire Jag components sell new balljoints for £21.95.
Thanks
Mike
#3
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Do the easy stuff first.
Just because you don't think the knock is coming from the front sway bar does not mean anything.
Remove the sway bar ends on each end. It's only a single nut on each side and can be done without raising the car. I like to turn the wheels full lock on each side to make it easier. Now go drive where the car was making noise before. You will find out real quick if the problem is gone.
Could be the lower ball joint too but that's a much bigger job and I won't change it unless I know it's bad.
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Just because you don't think the knock is coming from the front sway bar does not mean anything.
Remove the sway bar ends on each end. It's only a single nut on each side and can be done without raising the car. I like to turn the wheels full lock on each side to make it easier. Now go drive where the car was making noise before. You will find out real quick if the problem is gone.
Could be the lower ball joint too but that's a much bigger job and I won't change it unless I know it's bad.
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#5
#6
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Your still not listening! Why even take it to someone? For all the time and effort you have already spent you could have had the solution.
Remove the sway bar end links and drive around. It's simple and quick. The odds are huge that it IS the sway bar and/or the end links. If it's not you will have that answer too!
It won't go away.
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Remove the sway bar end links and drive around. It's simple and quick. The odds are huge that it IS the sway bar and/or the end links. If it's not you will have that answer too!
It won't go away.
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.
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#7
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I bought the bushings from partsgeek and for the life of me I can't locate the sway bar. Can someone share a picture of what I'm looking for? I have replaced the rack with inner tie rods recently and I have a fresh alignment along with 4 new tires. I have also replaced the struts and pressure plates. The only things I can think of are the lower ball joints and sway bar bushings.
Thanks!
2000 3.0 stype 115000 miles.
Thanks!
2000 3.0 stype 115000 miles.
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#8
#9
#11
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Digging in the forum, I found the first video indexed already:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...deo-faq-68290/
So credits are not for me.. :-)
But glad I could help anyway..
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...deo-faq-68290/
So credits are not for me.. :-)
But glad I could help anyway..
#12
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Hi all,
I have an update.
I thought about clubairth1's idea and thought sod it, if I'm undoing one end, I may as well just replace the drop links, so I did.
However, whilst there I noticed that the bush on the front of the lower arm was a bit shoddy. I put a pry bar in and sure enough....excessive movement.
Next question.....what sort of job is it to replace that bush. I've seen that the arms are very expensive.
Thanks again for all your help.
Mike
I have an update.
I thought about clubairth1's idea and thought sod it, if I'm undoing one end, I may as well just replace the drop links, so I did.
However, whilst there I noticed that the bush on the front of the lower arm was a bit shoddy. I put a pry bar in and sure enough....excessive movement.
Next question.....what sort of job is it to replace that bush. I've seen that the arms are very expensive.
Thanks again for all your help.
Mike
#13
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Mike;
Good catch! The best information I have ever seen on all of the S Type suspension bushings is on the UK forum.
Please read the whole thread as more and more things have been found out with time.
Be sure and follow the link to the discussion part.
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#15
#16
#17
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I have been at Jag garage today for oil, filters and plugs replacement.
Had also my brake disks treated. On that occasion while car was on the lift, I inspected the joints and various parts to try and track the knocks, rattles and rings I had when hitting bumps. Everything looked quite stiff and I couldn't tell what was doing the noises. Mechanic said he doesnt see anything that need replacement. That sounded weird.
However, before starting the job, the lower under engine shield was removed. I checked the supports of that shields and all of them where loose!! no doubt they make noises. We locked tightly all the nuts and bolts and surprise - no knocks anymore!!!
No rattle, no clings, nothing. Car is quiet and everything seems stiff and in place.
Silly as it is - check the lower shield!! Hit it and make sure it is perfectly well fit in place. It make LOT of noise when loose - specifically on bumps and cavities.
Had also my brake disks treated. On that occasion while car was on the lift, I inspected the joints and various parts to try and track the knocks, rattles and rings I had when hitting bumps. Everything looked quite stiff and I couldn't tell what was doing the noises. Mechanic said he doesnt see anything that need replacement. That sounded weird.
However, before starting the job, the lower under engine shield was removed. I checked the supports of that shields and all of them where loose!! no doubt they make noises. We locked tightly all the nuts and bolts and surprise - no knocks anymore!!!
No rattle, no clings, nothing. Car is quiet and everything seems stiff and in place.
Silly as it is - check the lower shield!! Hit it and make sure it is perfectly well fit in place. It make LOT of noise when loose - specifically on bumps and cavities.
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#19
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Disk Brake: They machined it as it was worn by the pads, and when I was braking a loud whistling sound was heard from the brake action.
The machining was to make the disk face flat again, since especially at the outer edge it was touching the static brake parts (the inner area of the disk was eroded) thus emitting a loud sound. Now breaking is smooth and quiet. There is enough thickness to the disks to perform that action, no problem with that. Also very cheap comparing to the great results. (around 35 pounds for both front disks)
The machining was to make the disk face flat again, since especially at the outer edge it was touching the static brake parts (the inner area of the disk was eroded) thus emitting a loud sound. Now breaking is smooth and quiet. There is enough thickness to the disks to perform that action, no problem with that. Also very cheap comparing to the great results. (around 35 pounds for both front disks)
Last edited by orlee; 11-04-2013 at 01:18 PM.