Leaking Coolant Reservoir
#1
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Guys,here is my car:
2002 S Type V8
65,000 miles
I have a leak somewhere below my coolant reservoir. I've tried to search the forum but have not really come up with anything (maybe I'm not searching right). I have a few questions:
1. My plan is to take out the tank and inspect. Is there a trick to this? seems like I have to take off the wipers, plastic shroud and loosen the strut tower brace. Sound correct?
2. I have not crawled under the car yet (will do that this weekend). Is it easy to see the hoses, etc?
3. Is there a common spot where these fail? Or is it hit or miss?
Any advise would be helpful
2002 S Type V8
65,000 miles
I have a leak somewhere below my coolant reservoir. I've tried to search the forum but have not really come up with anything (maybe I'm not searching right). I have a few questions:
1. My plan is to take out the tank and inspect. Is there a trick to this? seems like I have to take off the wipers, plastic shroud and loosen the strut tower brace. Sound correct?
2. I have not crawled under the car yet (will do that this weekend). Is it easy to see the hoses, etc?
3. Is there a common spot where these fail? Or is it hit or miss?
Any advise would be helpful
#2
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Some guys that have done this on your yr and engine size may chime in but I can tell you I've seen these expansion tank leaks so many times on this forum I;ve actually had the thought of having a spare tank on hand and I haven't had a leak yet..
Heres a simple google search..https://www.google.com/search?q=jagu...utf-8&oe=utf-8
Heres a simple google search..https://www.google.com/search?q=jagu...utf-8&oe=utf-8
Last edited by ZenFly; 03-01-2016 at 06:16 PM.
#3
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The coolant expansion reservoirs typically hairline-crack at the hose nipples, but they have also been known to crack at the seams. If yours is the original, there's a high probability that it has cracked somewhere. These things rarely last more than five or six years....
Last edited by Jon89; 03-02-2016 at 09:29 AM.
#4
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#5
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To remove the coolant reservoir you must firstly remove the wiper arms and windscreen lower finisher together with the strut brace.
Once those items are out of the way, you can unbolt the reservoir and disconnect the hoses at the ends opposite the reservoir. It helps to have a tool designed for removing the constant tension clamps, which is available from sellers on the Internet.
For example: Mobea or Constant Tension Hose Clamp Plier with Extended Jaws SES860L Brand New | eBay
Installation of the reservoir is the reverse of its removal.
Once those items are out of the way, you can unbolt the reservoir and disconnect the hoses at the ends opposite the reservoir. It helps to have a tool designed for removing the constant tension clamps, which is available from sellers on the Internet.
For example: Mobea or Constant Tension Hose Clamp Plier with Extended Jaws SES860L Brand New | eBay
Installation of the reservoir is the reverse of its removal.
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#8
#9
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Did you bleed the system? There are two locations: one at the front of the inlet manifold above the thermostat housing and another for the heater core next to the reservoir.
Be careful when removing the cap on the thermostat tower as the plastic housing can crack. Remember to also only tighten the cap enough to seal, about 4 Nm, which should be listed on the cap itself.
Be careful when removing the cap on the thermostat tower as the plastic housing can crack. Remember to also only tighten the cap enough to seal, about 4 Nm, which should be listed on the cap itself.
#11
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#14
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#15
#16
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I hear you loud and clear regarding spending your hard-earned money for a tool that you think may be used only once. But a good pair of hose-removal pliers is a necessity for all DIY Jaguar owners. After more than seven years of S-Type ownership and more than four years of XK8 ownership, I now own three various sizes and types of hose-removal pliers and have used all of them more than I care to admit....
Go to your local Harbor Freight and check to see if they stock any hose-removal pliers (some do, some don't). Be sure to take one of their ubiquitous 20%-off coupons with you. You may wind up with a decent set for less than ten bucks. And trust me, you will indeed need them again. And again....
Go to your local Harbor Freight and check to see if they stock any hose-removal pliers (some do, some don't). Be sure to take one of their ubiquitous 20%-off coupons with you. You may wind up with a decent set for less than ten bucks. And trust me, you will indeed need them again. And again....
#17
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Guys,here is my car:
2002 S Type V8
65,000 miles
I have a leak somewhere below my coolant reservoir. I've tried to search the forum but have not really come up with anything (maybe I'm not searching right). I have a few questions:
1. My plan is to take out the tank and inspect. Is there a trick to this? seems like I have to take off the wipers, plastic shroud and loosen the strut tower brace. Sound correct?
2. I have not crawled under the car yet (will do that this weekend). Is it easy to see the hoses, etc?
3. Is there a common spot where these fail? Or is it hit or miss?
Any advise would be helpful
2002 S Type V8
65,000 miles
I have a leak somewhere below my coolant reservoir. I've tried to search the forum but have not really come up with anything (maybe I'm not searching right). I have a few questions:
1. My plan is to take out the tank and inspect. Is there a trick to this? seems like I have to take off the wipers, plastic shroud and loosen the strut tower brace. Sound correct?
2. I have not crawled under the car yet (will do that this weekend). Is it easy to see the hoses, etc?
3. Is there a common spot where these fail? Or is it hit or miss?
Any advise would be helpful
Mark,
I've done this job 3 times on a 4.0.
1. Where are you seeing the telltale of a leak? If the tank is leaking, the coolant will travel through the cowl drain and puddle behind the front wheel.
2. You can forgo the clamp tool, but it is a pain. Some auto parts places will rent you one..DO IT.
3. There is a how to in the sticky notes here somewhere.
4. If you determine the tank is bad, buy the one with the longest warranty. Cost is up but you should do this.
5. You will need new cowl cover fasteners. The old ones won't work anymore.
6. while you have the cowl cover off, replace the cabin filter and clean out the drains on each side.
Pretty easy job and remember, that a lot of fluid willdrain while you work, so don't be alarmed if it takes a gallon or so to refill. If I remember correctly, you have to run at about 1500 rpm's to circulate to the heater core and push the air out.
#19
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