locked my keys in the trunk
#22
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Tried most solutions on this thread. This one worked for me on x type with keys locked in the trunk/boot. Thanks cortland for getting us out of a very frustrating 24 hours!!
I locked my keys in my trunk a while ago, and it sure was embarrassing. Anyway, you can get a socket set, probably some pliers in case. I can't remember which, so get a philips head, and a flat head srcew driver. You will need to carefully take apart your back seat. Since most of the interior trim is layered, you will obviously need to take off some other peices first.
I started by taking off the interior door trim. Then unclip and take out the bottom part of the back seat cushion, it has plastic clips. Then undo the bolts on the bottom of the back part of the back seat. Of course you might have to undo some bolts on the side of the seat. can't remember specifically, but if you get to this part it should be obvious. Once you ondo the bolts on the bottom, you should be able to get about 6 to 10 inches by two feet of an opening before you pull your back seat up to much and break it. You'll probably feel when you've got too much pressure on it, just be careful. The latch which holds the back seat up is 80.00, and the arm it latches onto is 120.00 i beleive. It's cheaper to remake a key. But in a pinch this can be done if you are careful and have a bit of finess(don't force anything too hard).
I started by taking off the interior door trim. Then unclip and take out the bottom part of the back seat cushion, it has plastic clips. Then undo the bolts on the bottom of the back part of the back seat. Of course you might have to undo some bolts on the side of the seat. can't remember specifically, but if you get to this part it should be obvious. Once you ondo the bolts on the bottom, you should be able to get about 6 to 10 inches by two feet of an opening before you pull your back seat up to much and break it. You'll probably feel when you've got too much pressure on it, just be careful. The latch which holds the back seat up is 80.00, and the arm it latches onto is 120.00 i beleive. It's cheaper to remake a key. But in a pinch this can be done if you are careful and have a bit of finess(don't force anything too hard).
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (10-30-2014)
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#31
I got the RAC out and this is what he did - we had access to the interior of the car, the keys and battery disconnected as being charged at the time, so no power and key did not work in the boot aperture.
After disconnecting the battery charger he took his jump leads and attached the negative to a shock absorber bolt under the bonnet and the live he clamped to a short wire he had, the other end of which he pushed into the starter relay pin 3 aperture (after removing the starter relay). This powered up the car and at the same time we pressed the boot release on the key (one in car should work as well). hurray!
After disconnecting the battery charger he took his jump leads and attached the negative to a shock absorber bolt under the bonnet and the live he clamped to a short wire he had, the other end of which he pushed into the starter relay pin 3 aperture (after removing the starter relay). This powered up the car and at the same time we pressed the boot release on the key (one in car should work as well). hurray!
#32
FYI, there is actually an "emergency" + electric post under the right side wheel well liner. There are pictures some where around here.
Kind if a pain I'm sure: jack car up, remove wheel, remove wheel well liner, attach positive cable to post, negative to some ground in the engine compartment...
But it's nice to know it's there...
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
Kind if a pain I'm sure: jack car up, remove wheel, remove wheel well liner, attach positive cable to post, negative to some ground in the engine compartment...
But it's nice to know it's there...
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
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