Locked out of my car
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#5
Doesn't make a lot of sense that your ignition key won't actuate the door lock - except if the door lock is stuck from dis-use. This IS a frequent occurrence on these cars. If the key doesn't insert all the way into the lock cylinder on the door.....you likely have the problem, which may convince the uninitiated that the key doesn't fit the door. Get you some Teflon, or better yet, Teflon with penetrating oil (Lowe's sells both) and, if you have access to one, a syringe, with a long, tapered dispensing nose on it. Stick that inside the keyhole, past the little door that keeps FOD out, and inject some penetrant. Next step can be done with the key, but particularly as you only have one, I would recommend a stiff piece of bailing wire or similar. Work the key/wire in and out of the keyhole repeatedly whilst squirting some penetrant on the interface (at the point of insertion)
Be patient, yet persistent. After years of never using a key, it will need to be fully wetted with lubricant before complete penetration will be allowed. Once you finally get the key buried in her to the hilt, just a few more strokes and you'll unlock all her secrets.
Not that the bootlid lock has likely seen any more key-action than the driver's door, but you could always try going in through the boot and folding the rear seatbacks down....
Be patient, yet persistent. After years of never using a key, it will need to be fully wetted with lubricant before complete penetration will be allowed. Once you finally get the key buried in her to the hilt, just a few more strokes and you'll unlock all her secrets.
Not that the bootlid lock has likely seen any more key-action than the driver's door, but you could always try going in through the boot and folding the rear seatbacks down....
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NBCat (05-06-2019)
#6
One other thought: Check the voltage on the new fob battery. Sometimes those little coin batteries sit on the shelf for years. No guarantee it was good when installed.
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NBCat (05-06-2019)
#7
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#8
Or had it been sitting for weeks when you tried the fob?
Battery is good. I knew it was dead from sitting, so I put it on a trickle charger the day before and just put it back in this afternoon. But I can use my voltmeter to test it just to be sure.
Check the voltage on the new fob battery.
#9
Also, if that poor battery sat dead for any length of time, there's a good chance it's nothing more than a paperweight by now. Any parts store will charge and test it for you. If it fails, be aware most new batteries aren't fully charged at the time of sale. Ask to have it fully charged. If the guy behind the counter balks, tell him some guy on the internet said to do it.
#10
Not familiar with STR bracing (Obviously) but from the sound of it, the seats still fold down and it is not a solid wall. IF both postulates are true, I should think you could fashion an "interior key" out of a broom handle and wire coat hanger that would do the trick, although I don't recall if actuating the rear door handle from inside will unlock that door. May be more of a challenge if you have to actuate the driver's interior door handle.
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motorcarman (05-23-2019)
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It's not at all easy to fold them down unless done when you have good access as the cabling etc is not readily accessed, unlike with all the other S-Types.
#17
Originally Posted by kr98664
Ah, making progress. A trickle charger won't make a dent in a dead battery. There's a chemical reaction that has to take place inside the battery before it will properly take a charge. A trickle charger just doesn't have the oomph to kick start the process. You need a charger with at least a ten amp output.
Was not aware of that. Mine only does up to 6 amps. It said it was charging but by the next day it switched over to maintaining. I assumed it had restored it by that point. Oreillys charged the battery and tested, it was good. Back in the car.
No drive-by, just a busy person. Started doing brakes on my truck and it just kept leading to other things. Front-end suspension on the truck is pretty much all new now, grrr.
Unfortunately, the jag still isn't going cruising anywhere. I just want to sell it. Tired of putting money into it every 6 months, done it for over 10 years, I'm done. It's driveable but I wouldn't go more than a few blocks. (coolant leaks). Transmission only has about 20k miles on it if I had to guess, rebuilt in 2012.
#18
03 str is a nice one....i understand the money pit feeling though, daughter had a car like that once...maybe if you give it a week or 2 and at least diagnose the coolant leaks if possible...i know the feeling of repairing multiple vehicles at the same time....gets overwhelming sometimes...whatever you decide, good luck and we are here to gladly help and even give you a ribbing from time to time
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Oh I've barely driven it in years. The coolant leak I'm pretty sure is the line that runs under the supercharger. Dealership told me they have to drop the transmission to remove the supercharger to replace the line, a $4k job according to them. Doesn't make sense to me. Even if I fixed it, it'd just be something else 6 months later. I love the car, but it's been by far the least reliable thing I ever owned. My bmw has the same number of miles and it's my most reliable vehicle.
I think I'd just part the car out, but I don't have my garage built at the new house yet.
I think I'd just part the car out, but I don't have my garage built at the new house yet.
#20
Oh I've barely driven it in years. The coolant leak I'm pretty sure is the line that runs under the supercharger. Dealership told me they have to drop the transmission to remove the supercharger to replace the line, a $4k job according to them. Doesn't make sense to me. Even if I fixed it, it'd just be something else 6 months later. I love the car, but it's been by far the least reliable thing I ever owned. My bmw has the same number of miles and it's my most reliable vehicle.
I think I'd just part the car out, but I don't have my garage built at the new house yet.
I think I'd just part the car out, but I don't have my garage built at the new house yet.
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