Looking at a few cars today and have a question
#1
Looking at a few cars today and have a question
Hi,
I am going to look at a couple of different s-types and need an opinion and have a couple of questions.
Here are my 2 options:
2005, 107K miles, 3.0L
Jaguar S-Type 2005 3.0 L
2003, 81K miles, 4.2L
2003 Jaguar S-Type sedan 81k miles
Both say they have been well maintained (I will verify records), but if both look good do I go with the slightly older, less miles, bigger engine or the newer, more miles smaller engine? Will I miss the power?
Next question:
Cars of this age typically have a few things that have failed and needed repair. What should I be looking for in the records that has been repaired that would be significant and would probably need to be repaired in the near future if it had not already been done?
Thanks
I am going to look at a couple of different s-types and need an opinion and have a couple of questions.
Here are my 2 options:
2005, 107K miles, 3.0L
Jaguar S-Type 2005 3.0 L
2003, 81K miles, 4.2L
2003 Jaguar S-Type sedan 81k miles
Both say they have been well maintained (I will verify records), but if both look good do I go with the slightly older, less miles, bigger engine or the newer, more miles smaller engine? Will I miss the power?
Next question:
Cars of this age typically have a few things that have failed and needed repair. What should I be looking for in the records that has been repaired that would be significant and would probably need to be repaired in the near future if it had not already been done?
Thanks
#2
I have a 2005 S-Type 3.0 approaching 98,000 miles and my wife has a 2006 XK8 with the 4.2 approaching 107,000 miles. The 3.0 does the job, but the 4.2 is definitely an improvement in both power and refinement....
Spend some time reading the sticky threads at the top of this section. There are quite a few issues in these cars that must be addressed and resolved (cooling system components, suspension components, transmission fluid refresh, various deteriorating plastic components, etc.) especially as they age. These sticky threads will help to educate you on the problems you will face if the well-known issues have not already been rectified in the cars you are considering....
And if you cannot DIY the vast majority of maintenance and repairs that are part of the ownership of these cars, do not even think about acquiring one. They can drain your checkbook in a hurry if you are having to pay someone else to fix them....
Spend some time reading the sticky threads at the top of this section. There are quite a few issues in these cars that must be addressed and resolved (cooling system components, suspension components, transmission fluid refresh, various deteriorating plastic components, etc.) especially as they age. These sticky threads will help to educate you on the problems you will face if the well-known issues have not already been rectified in the cars you are considering....
And if you cannot DIY the vast majority of maintenance and repairs that are part of the ownership of these cars, do not even think about acquiring one. They can drain your checkbook in a hurry if you are having to pay someone else to fix them....
Last edited by Jon89; 12-21-2016 at 12:34 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jon89:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (12-22-2016),
rosskell (12-21-2016)
#3
I do work on my older cars but they aren't as complex as these vehicles (1999 Dodge Ram pickup and Dodge Magnum which got totaled and I am replacing). I don't love doing anything that you have to remove the dash for or diagnosing electrical issues but as far as the sticky threads with things like cooling reservoir and probably even suspension stuff I can manage. It looks like there are a lot of videos and tutorials on a bunch of this stuff for Jaguars.
Are parts unusually expensive? I have seen comments on here saying yes they are and someone else commenting that no they aren't. I guess it depends on the part.
Are parts unusually expensive? I have seen comments on here saying yes they are and someone else commenting that no they aren't. I guess it depends on the part.
#4
Next question:
Cars of this age typically have a few things that have failed and needed repair. What should I be looking for in the records that has been repaired that would be significant and would probably need to be repaired in the near future if it had not already been done?
Thanks
Cars of this age typically have a few things that have failed and needed repair. What should I be looking for in the records that has been repaired that would be significant and would probably need to be repaired in the near future if it had not already been done?
Thanks
The purchase price is just admittance to the area. Actually playing will cost extra.
There's no such thing as an old, cheap, reliable high end car.
The following 4 users liked this post by Mikey:
abonano (12-27-2016),
Grant Francis (12-22-2016),
Jumpin' Jag Flash (12-22-2016),
rosskell (12-21-2016)
#5
If you look at the 2005 car it looks like pimps car with those wheels and I find it strange that the person is selling it because he is saving up for another jag.
The second one has a steering wheel cover on it take it of to check for the condition because that can show you if the mileage has been changed.
look at the average speed it will show you if the car has been flogged and then check the fuel average that can also show you how the car was driven.
Check the vin as this will give you the actual year that the car was manufactured and not the year that it was first registered. mine registered 16 months after it was built.
another point is check the rubber pipes and bushes as jaguar are a very green firm with biodegradable rubber which goes around 10 years.
If you have not already bought yourself a copy of this book do so it is a big help.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-S-Type-1999-to-2007-The-essential-buyers-guide-book-paper-/201750650077?hash=item2ef9469cdd
The second one has a steering wheel cover on it take it of to check for the condition because that can show you if the mileage has been changed.
look at the average speed it will show you if the car has been flogged and then check the fuel average that can also show you how the car was driven.
Check the vin as this will give you the actual year that the car was manufactured and not the year that it was first registered. mine registered 16 months after it was built.
another point is check the rubber pipes and bushes as jaguar are a very green firm with biodegradable rubber which goes around 10 years.
If you have not already bought yourself a copy of this book do so it is a big help.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-S-Type-1999-to-2007-The-essential-buyers-guide-book-paper-/201750650077?hash=item2ef9469cdd
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rosskell (12-21-2016)
#7
Really good, honest advice given - especially in regard to DIY maintenance and repair. IMO, whether parts are considered expensive or not is a moot point compared to both cost and unreliability of often less than expert paid labour. Ignore this at your peril.
But being complex, even exotic, does not make DIY impossible . . . advice to delve into our Stickys, download all the manuals, TSBs etc, is essential. Beyond some specialized tools and a steep learning curve, little on these cars is impossible to DIY.
I'm not going to set out to influence your choice . . . albeit my vote would look to the V8 but only the 4.2L and not the 4.0L. For me, there are too many other variables . . . I would insist on post facelift, as new as possible; I would opt for the ZF 6spd a/t every time; never waste time with wheel pattern and size that you figure to upgrade (way too expensive unless tacky after markets); and avoid like the plague any with a towbar (oops; forgot my avatar) or showing glimpses of innovative wiring, audio or cosmetic mods. Plenty there for others to disagree with, but that's the value of personal research . . . arriving at a decision that makes it just as attractive to walk away as it will be to start slavering when you find what you want!
Cheers,
Ken
But being complex, even exotic, does not make DIY impossible . . . advice to delve into our Stickys, download all the manuals, TSBs etc, is essential. Beyond some specialized tools and a steep learning curve, little on these cars is impossible to DIY.
I'm not going to set out to influence your choice . . . albeit my vote would look to the V8 but only the 4.2L and not the 4.0L. For me, there are too many other variables . . . I would insist on post facelift, as new as possible; I would opt for the ZF 6spd a/t every time; never waste time with wheel pattern and size that you figure to upgrade (way too expensive unless tacky after markets); and avoid like the plague any with a towbar (oops; forgot my avatar) or showing glimpses of innovative wiring, audio or cosmetic mods. Plenty there for others to disagree with, but that's the value of personal research . . . arriving at a decision that makes it just as attractive to walk away as it will be to start slavering when you find what you want!
Cheers,
Ken
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rosskell (12-22-2016)
Trending Topics
#8
The thing that would worry me about both adverts is no mention of maintenance/service history. More important than mileage on any Jaguar is how it has been treated by the PO's. A well maintained example of any Jaguar model is a pleasure to own and drive but a neglected one can be a money pit. Don't be seduced by gleaming paint and wood/leather interiors - good and bad they usually all look like that.
With used Jaguars, I always spend time going through all the switches and functions to make sure everything works. Also check for damaged or missing trim. Apparently minor faults can often cost a lot of money to rectify.
Graham
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rosskell (12-22-2016)
#9
Great advice in the foregoing. However, if you've been through all of that and still want one of the two, but can't decide, here's your tie-breaker: "Who will be driving it?"
Yourself, whom I imagine regards things like coolant temp gauges and such? Or perhaps a wife or daughter who (in the experience I have made) may not?
The 4.2L will cook itself to a hunk of molten metal if driven in complete disregard of coolant level and overtemp warnings, whereas the 3.0L will not. It will overheat, but will refuse to continue operating to the point of catastrophic damage.
Yourself, whom I imagine regards things like coolant temp gauges and such? Or perhaps a wife or daughter who (in the experience I have made) may not?
The 4.2L will cook itself to a hunk of molten metal if driven in complete disregard of coolant level and overtemp warnings, whereas the 3.0L will not. It will overheat, but will refuse to continue operating to the point of catastrophic damage.
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rosskell (12-22-2016)
#10
I would look at the '03, because its a 4.2, and the fact that the wheels are stock.
The '05, although 2 years newer, has some extra mileage on it, and, as minor as it might seem, I don't like the fact that the 3.0 has non stock wheels, they never came with those wheels, which appear to be 17" Kronos style Jag wheels which were only available on the 4.2's and chrome no less. Not a fan of "mods", especially when these cars are concerned, JMHO
As far as parts, there is a big range of prices. Jag OEM parts from the dealer are the most expensive ( as expected), but some places, such as vendors on this site who advertise, offer OEM Jag parts at a discount, or offer aftermarket equivelent parts at a much cheaper price then even OEM parts. Some really cheap parts, often found on eBay, etc can be very cheap but of poor quality so buyer beware.
One thing I would like to add in addition to the excellent advice in prior posts is that of the transmission ( gearbox). MY's 2003 and up used the ZF 6HP26 automatic 6 speed transmission. Even though Jaguar stated its fluid is a lifetime fill, never needing changing, which later on it was found out that in fact, it does need changing, and at 60,000 mile intervals. Check to see if it has been done, and if not put it first on your to do list. Also the battery should be checked to see how old it is , and what voltage its at. 12.5 volts minimum. These cars are super sensitve to battery voltage being low, so you might want to change the battery.
Also again, DIY is imperative in owning these cars. I might be an extreme example, but I've owned my '03 3.0 for two and a half years and have already spent approximately $5,000 USD in parts/repairs and I've only used a independent Jag repair garage twice, the rest was DIY!
So whatever you pay, add about 2k of your money and put it away in a seperate maintenence/repair fund for those unexpected expenses! ( right, Jon89!)
Hope this helps you out, and good luck
The '05, although 2 years newer, has some extra mileage on it, and, as minor as it might seem, I don't like the fact that the 3.0 has non stock wheels, they never came with those wheels, which appear to be 17" Kronos style Jag wheels which were only available on the 4.2's and chrome no less. Not a fan of "mods", especially when these cars are concerned, JMHO
As far as parts, there is a big range of prices. Jag OEM parts from the dealer are the most expensive ( as expected), but some places, such as vendors on this site who advertise, offer OEM Jag parts at a discount, or offer aftermarket equivelent parts at a much cheaper price then even OEM parts. Some really cheap parts, often found on eBay, etc can be very cheap but of poor quality so buyer beware.
One thing I would like to add in addition to the excellent advice in prior posts is that of the transmission ( gearbox). MY's 2003 and up used the ZF 6HP26 automatic 6 speed transmission. Even though Jaguar stated its fluid is a lifetime fill, never needing changing, which later on it was found out that in fact, it does need changing, and at 60,000 mile intervals. Check to see if it has been done, and if not put it first on your to do list. Also the battery should be checked to see how old it is , and what voltage its at. 12.5 volts minimum. These cars are super sensitve to battery voltage being low, so you might want to change the battery.
Also again, DIY is imperative in owning these cars. I might be an extreme example, but I've owned my '03 3.0 for two and a half years and have already spent approximately $5,000 USD in parts/repairs and I've only used a independent Jag repair garage twice, the rest was DIY!
So whatever you pay, add about 2k of your money and put it away in a seperate maintenence/repair fund for those unexpected expenses! ( right, Jon89!)
Hope this helps you out, and good luck
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#11
I'd like to add my 2 cents, as I've bought 3 S-Types in the last 4 years plus a recently acquired 2000 Lexus ES300.
You're shopping on CraigsList, where it's Buyer Beware! On CraigsList, you can't be careful enough, so exercise extreme caution, as you have no recourse if you make a mistake. I saw an S-Type in the Philly CraigsList posted as an '03 which my trained eye could tell immediately was somewhere between an 1999-02. An unsuspecting buyer might've gotten taken. BE CAREFUL!!
Some tips:
Check the asking prices against Kelly Blue Book and/or NADA to determine if the asking prices are fair for the age, mileage, features and condition of these cars. The seller may think chrome wheels is an upgrade and therefore is boosting the asking price when, in fact, those wheels were not stock (see Jimmy 68 above) and may detract from its look and value. Ask him if he has the original wheels and will he include them in the purchase. If not, try negotiating a lower price.
Also, consider purchasing vehicle history reports for these cars from CarFax and AutoCheck. They'll provide all sorts of useful info about accidents, title status, odometer, past owners, maintenance records, etc. I bought one of mine cars on CraigsList and got a great Jag at a great price. Thanks to CarFax and doing my due diligence first, I knew more about the car than the owner did, which helped me negotiate a great price on a car I was certain had no ownership issues, prior accidents, etc.
Personally, I love my 2003 S-Type 3.0 although I've invested quite a bit of $$ to keep it in tip top shape. Still, it costs less to maintain than the larger engines (esp STRs), it really hauls *** when I need it to, and I don't mind the 31 mpg at 70-80 mph on the Interstates. And I can't recall ever thinking, not even once, "Gee, I wish I had a V8".
Good luck.
You're shopping on CraigsList, where it's Buyer Beware! On CraigsList, you can't be careful enough, so exercise extreme caution, as you have no recourse if you make a mistake. I saw an S-Type in the Philly CraigsList posted as an '03 which my trained eye could tell immediately was somewhere between an 1999-02. An unsuspecting buyer might've gotten taken. BE CAREFUL!!
Some tips:
Check the asking prices against Kelly Blue Book and/or NADA to determine if the asking prices are fair for the age, mileage, features and condition of these cars. The seller may think chrome wheels is an upgrade and therefore is boosting the asking price when, in fact, those wheels were not stock (see Jimmy 68 above) and may detract from its look and value. Ask him if he has the original wheels and will he include them in the purchase. If not, try negotiating a lower price.
Also, consider purchasing vehicle history reports for these cars from CarFax and AutoCheck. They'll provide all sorts of useful info about accidents, title status, odometer, past owners, maintenance records, etc. I bought one of mine cars on CraigsList and got a great Jag at a great price. Thanks to CarFax and doing my due diligence first, I knew more about the car than the owner did, which helped me negotiate a great price on a car I was certain had no ownership issues, prior accidents, etc.
Personally, I love my 2003 S-Type 3.0 although I've invested quite a bit of $$ to keep it in tip top shape. Still, it costs less to maintain than the larger engines (esp STRs), it really hauls *** when I need it to, and I don't mind the 31 mpg at 70-80 mph on the Interstates. And I can't recall ever thinking, not even once, "Gee, I wish I had a V8".
Good luck.
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rosskell (12-22-2016)
#12
Well at least the color choice is taken care of, they both look pretty good too. Are they pretty equal in sun damage and weathering? They both look like they have the same twin spoke stock wheels, one's chromed and the other is the satin finish.
The biggest difference between the 2005 and 2003 is the hood and front bumper. Which do you like better? The instrument cluster is different too.
The NA V8 is quicker if it matters to you and is pretty bomb proof, the V6 seems to hold up pretty good too and has slightly better gas mileage.
Of course if you wanted an economical and practical car, you'd get a Prius.
One thing to check out on the V8 model is to look in the rear wheel wells for splatters of burnt rubber. A little splatter is OK, a lot of splatter, not so good.
Leaks are the biggest concern, just like any other car.
Did the 2005 have 100,000 mile service?
What breaks and what doesn't is a crap shoot. The S Type in general is a solid car and holds up better than most.
Get the one that you like the looks of and the drive of the best, a couple hundred bucks doesn't matter that much in the long run.
The biggest difference between the 2005 and 2003 is the hood and front bumper. Which do you like better? The instrument cluster is different too.
The NA V8 is quicker if it matters to you and is pretty bomb proof, the V6 seems to hold up pretty good too and has slightly better gas mileage.
Of course if you wanted an economical and practical car, you'd get a Prius.
One thing to check out on the V8 model is to look in the rear wheel wells for splatters of burnt rubber. A little splatter is OK, a lot of splatter, not so good.
Leaks are the biggest concern, just like any other car.
Did the 2005 have 100,000 mile service?
What breaks and what doesn't is a crap shoot. The S Type in general is a solid car and holds up better than most.
Get the one that you like the looks of and the drive of the best, a couple hundred bucks doesn't matter that much in the long run.
Last edited by Catmobile; 12-27-2016 at 02:42 AM.
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rosskell (12-28-2016)
#14
Here in the states there is a coming of age ritual called burning rubber, some people never seem to out grow it. It consists of putting your feet on the brakes and the gas at the same time to sit there and get the tires smoking as much as possible. There are thousands of videos on youtube showing the ritual.
After I bought the Catmobile and brought it home my son, after one minute of looking at the car, pointed out the splatters of burnt rubber in the wheel wells and exhaust pipes. He told me the previous owner was burning rubber, but not very much. I called the previous owner and he admitted that he did it like five or six times. Good thing the cars have an open differential, they'll take more abuse. When I changed the rear end fluid there were sparkles, but no chunks in the old fluid, not bad, and the car's fine. I changed the fluid again after a few thousand miles
After I bought the Catmobile and brought it home my son, after one minute of looking at the car, pointed out the splatters of burnt rubber in the wheel wells and exhaust pipes. He told me the previous owner was burning rubber, but not very much. I called the previous owner and he admitted that he did it like five or six times. Good thing the cars have an open differential, they'll take more abuse. When I changed the rear end fluid there were sparkles, but no chunks in the old fluid, not bad, and the car's fine. I changed the fluid again after a few thousand miles
Last edited by Catmobile; 12-27-2016 at 05:25 PM.
#16
JagV8, its simulating a drag racing car in the burn out (water) box to spin and warm up the slicks before a race.
Very effective for drag racing on a track if you're running slicks, but in a passenger car on a public road, it'll just thin out your tires and your wallet! ( and possibly a reckless driving ticket if caught!)
and why in a Jaguar is beyond me!
Very effective for drag racing on a track if you're running slicks, but in a passenger car on a public road, it'll just thin out your tires and your wallet! ( and possibly a reckless driving ticket if caught!)
and why in a Jaguar is beyond me!
#18
Off topic sorry ,
There are burn out competitions around the world , it's big in places in Australia and here in NZ . We have them at our local car shows . No silly on the spot skid though , figure 8s & donuts , Nothing rong with a good skid !! If it's your own car that is . Check these guys out , there having "no fun at all" . Sure there are no s types here but if mine was good at this I would be doing it , preferably not the flaming ones however .
but truthfully there are better cars for the task out there .
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...4A58429B696293
There are burn out competitions around the world , it's big in places in Australia and here in NZ . We have them at our local car shows . No silly on the spot skid though , figure 8s & donuts , Nothing rong with a good skid !! If it's your own car that is . Check these guys out , there having "no fun at all" . Sure there are no s types here but if mine was good at this I would be doing it , preferably not the flaming ones however .
but truthfully there are better cars for the task out there .
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...4A58429B696293
Last edited by Datsports; 12-30-2016 at 05:24 AM.
#19
Just a small comment about burn outs?
With an STR and 400 ft-lbs of torque you will turn the tires a bit even if you think your not!
So maybe not done on purpose but just a little wetness on the road and the traction control will be active. Since our S Types use the old style apply the brake method of traction control we see lots of rear brake dust and rear brake wear.
Without a LSD in the "R" spinning the rear tires is a daily occurrence even if you don't drive hard. Just a bunch of torque down low with that super charger.
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With an STR and 400 ft-lbs of torque you will turn the tires a bit even if you think your not!
So maybe not done on purpose but just a little wetness on the road and the traction control will be active. Since our S Types use the old style apply the brake method of traction control we see lots of rear brake dust and rear brake wear.
Without a LSD in the "R" spinning the rear tires is a daily occurrence even if you don't drive hard. Just a bunch of torque down low with that super charger.
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#20
My vote is for 2003 4.2. One of best sensory aspect of the 4.2 is the growl and feel of that low end torque. It combines with the heft of the vehicle to make for a very solid, powerful feel. As Henry Miller described something else..."it seems light and heavy at the same time, like a piece of lead with wings on it."