hey guys i just lowered my kitty today and now im getting a Cats system fault notice and open boot notice ;( ...so i tried unplugging the connectors and plugging them back in...then i tried unplugging the battery and unplugging the cats module (this is the module facing the trunk right? with 2 plugs in it) and ive tried every which way...

well i started the kitty back up and the "open boot" notice has dissapeared but the cats system fault is still on...so i started to notice that the ride is very very stiff and the kitty seems very bumpy...plus i dont feel the difference when i hit the "s" button...so im assuming after reading a whole bunch of other threads reguarding the same topic i concluded the cats arent working at all...

Today i installed H & R lowering springs with new Oem brake rotors and akebono brake pads...everything went smoothly with the install i even stayed and watched the technicians do the whole job they did everything right so it seems...now i got this notice and i cant seem to clear it...so what do i do?

I was talking to one of my friends and he said maybe the car is noticing its at a different ride hieght so maybe thats why the sensor went off..

pls HELP!!! and i have pics coming soon...and does anyone know a good jag technician in So Cal? who can maybe not charge me so much to clear this problem?

getting new tires and an alignment done tomorrow with "brutals" specs!

 

some before shots look at the space in the wheel wells

 

here are the After shots...Loving the stance of these H&R Springs!

 

Welcome grasshopper. We have so much to teach you. Be sure the CATS strut sensor wires are plugged into the top of the struts. Plug in the modules in the trunk. After all are checked, disconnect the negative cable from the negatve terminal on the battery, hold the negative cable to the postive terminal on the battery for 30 seconds. This'll re-set the car's ECU, CATS, etc. Drive her in "Normal" transmisson mode for 100 miles not exceeding 2000 rpm, allowing her to go through the gears. This'll teach the TCM proper shifting sequence.

 

All of the connectors are plugged in... But u want me to put the negative cable to touch the positive? How is this any different than just unplugging the negative terminal? Ive already disconnected the negative cable and still the amber light goes on in my dash.

 

Because the computer has capacitors that need to be discharged so the ECU can relearn. If you just disconnect the neg cable, it will store the info in memory.

 

What Mikey said. So there.

 

Oh and Mikey likes lowered S-types. Stock ones have the same amount of wheel gap as my truck

 

ok i will try this...in about an hour..ill let u know if it works...i hope it does

 

We hope it works too or Mikey and me "Get it".

 

Is this document somewhere or something that's been passed around on here?

I'm still having my battery issues, put the old one back in yesterday, and noticed that sometimes it shifts weird for a while afterwards. It made a spectacular failure in my driveway yesterday after a 1 hr trip so I swapped the battery.

But now it's hard to get a smooth start at anything other than a crawl unless I manually shift.

I'd like to give the TCM a permanent program and cut out all this learning crap.

Can they be lobotomized?

 

Looks Great!

 

Then put your tongue across the top of a 9v battery, just for good measure. That will reset the capcitors in your brain. Chasing electrical stuff tends to make my head foggy, so that technique works for me.

 

Ok so i tried connecting the negative to the positive and WALAAAA, NOTHING different happend except that the "boot open notice is back on" ;(

uhhhh what do i do now...except head to the jag dealer and pay 100 for them to tell me what i already know arrgghhh

 

Are you sure you followed the procedure properly? Make sure you disconnect the negative cable, and while leaving the postive cable connected, touch the negative cable to the positive connector for at least 30 seconds.

I can confirm I used this process on the weekend and it worked like a charm in resetting the ECU.

 

What possible difference could that make?

I'm curious.

 

Just for giggles try charging your battery (disconnect one lead first, preferably the ground) then see after 4 or 5 hours on slow charge if the problem is gone.

 

As great as it is, the whole $800 in parts and $300-$500 in labor isn't worth it to me...I got more important things to spend $$$ on such as replacing the DCCV and tranny fluid...lol

Edit: You could buy a new rear end for $300-$500 and have it welded..."un"-limited slip diff > lowered STR...lol

 

I'm also curious. Does the positive cable require a 12v power source to properly "empty" the capacitors?

 

Brizco88, charge battery as per Bob's suggestion, but something went awry with the install...not severe, but some detail has been overlooked. The hard re-set of the ECU is performed with the battery positive cable terminal remaining on the battery whilst the negative is held to the positive terminal for 30 seconds. Be sure the CATS module has its harness plug snugged. A very stiff suspension means CATS is not operational. Have the mechanic raise her up and go over the work. Check the ends of the CATS wires going to each strut. So charge battery, go over wiring, re-perform ahrd re-set of ECU.