Lowered my Kitty today!
#21
Brizco88, charge battery as per Bob's suggestion, but something went awry with the install...not severe, but some detail has been overlooked. The hard re-set of the ECU is performed with the battery positive cable terminal remaining on the battery whilst the negative is held to the positive terminal for 30 seconds. Be sure the CATS module has its harness plug snugged. A very stiff suspension means CATS is not operational. Have the mechanic raise her up and go over the work. Check the ends of the CATS wires going to each strut. So charge battery, go over wiring, re-perform ahrd re-set of ECU.
is there some connector under the plug that needs to be checked?
and what does charging the battery have to do with the cats system fault notice? i know about trying the hard reset thing but wouldnt this be the same?
#22
#23
Check connectors on top of struts in rear of car? Are the end of the connectors that fit in to the strut making adequate contact with connector sleeve in strut? Check main engine and chassis harness's and ground cables. Did you mis-cross the connectors in the trunk to the wrong module (i.e. CATS harness connector into the rear object warning module). Have the shop clear codes then check again. A weak battery can start the car but have difficulty providing enough volts/amps to drive the huge electrical load this car draws. We'll get you through this as best we can. Did you originally write that the suspension was stiff before the spring install?
#24
#27
I'm not saying that this is your problem I'm just saying it's worth elimination as an issue. A weak battery causes many of the cars systems to either issue error messages or act funky.
I've had Cats system failure 3 times in the last week as a result of trying to trace down either an electrical system problem or what may be a very weird intermittent internal battery short.
I replaced the battery two days ago in an effort to resolve this.
It's worth a try at least.
#28
Well my battery was fine before my installation on the hnr springs...so I was wondering how would It be any different now?...so I tried clearing the codes at the mechanic place with no luck..the code is reading p1111 if that makes any sense...but if I do want to charge my battery I can tak it to auto zone and they would charge it for free...so is there any special way I should try charging it?
#29
Check connectors on top of struts in rear of car? Are the end of the connectors that fit in to the strut making adequate contact with connector sleeve in strut? Check main engine and chassis harness's and ground cables. Did you mis-cross the connectors in the trunk to the wrong module (i.e. CATS harness connector into the rear object warning module). Have the shop clear codes then check again. A weak battery can start the car but have difficulty providing enough volts/amps to drive the huge electrical load this car draws. We'll get you through this as best we can. Did you originally write that the suspension was stiff before the spring install?
Would u have a pic of the module and the right places the plugs should be in? Im getting hella tired of this bouncy *** ride now
#31
Having installed a set of H&R springs myself using jack stands here is what I did. I started with the fronts. Loosen wheels, jackstands and remove wheels. Disconnected the battery. Broke suspension apart removed strut after unplugging electrical connection on the top. Compressed spring on strut, removed and compressed new spring unto strut. Replaced strut and buttoned up suspensions. Repeat three more times.
Once lowered on the deck connected electrical connections on all four corners and re-connect battery. Test drive and wheel alignment after 100mi driving. Done...
First, replace your battery and check the four strut electrical connections and wires for chafing. Nothing else electrical should have been disturbed but who knows. There was no need to touch the modulators.
This advice is worth what ya paid for it...
Once lowered on the deck connected electrical connections on all four corners and re-connect battery. Test drive and wheel alignment after 100mi driving. Done...
First, replace your battery and check the four strut electrical connections and wires for chafing. Nothing else electrical should have been disturbed but who knows. There was no need to touch the modulators.
This advice is worth what ya paid for it...
#32
Brizco, as Searanch said, the install is straight forward. I don't believe one can mismatch the connectors to the modules in the trunk. The module to the left is the rear parking sensor. Dude, I'm leaning to the notion that the install went awry in either severing of wires within the harness to each strut. Check the CATS fuse and relay. Do a continuity test on each length of wires to struts, etc. It's likely that this is the issue.
#33
Brizco, as Searanch said, the install is straight forward. I don't believe one can mismatch the connectors to the modules in the trunk. The module to the left is the rear parking sensor. Dude, I'm leaning to the notion that the install went awry in either severing of wires within the harness to each strut. Check the CATS fuse and relay. Do a continuity test on each length of wires to struts, etc. It's likely that this is the issue.
and the severing of wires is very improbable since i checked all the wires and none seem torn or cut.... i will take out the felt lining in the trunk tomorrow and go over the rear plugs and check to see if these are worn..the cats plugs under the hood of the car are really short and easy to check...but i will go over them again and i will be taking my battery to the shop tmrw and see its charge...uhhh i hope this is a small problem and not a big one...if it is ill just get some non cats struts
Last edited by Brizco88; 03-22-2012 at 08:49 PM. Reason: typo
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