Manifold Removal Question
#1
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I,m going to be removing my intake manifold so that I can change the plugs, coils, and assorted seals, etc that have been recommended on other posts.
I am planning to disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line. If this car has sat for two days prior, will there be pressure in this line? If so, what is the best way to relieve this pressure before disconnecting?
Thanks!
I am planning to disconnect the fuel rail from the fuel line. If this car has sat for two days prior, will there be pressure in this line? If so, what is the best way to relieve this pressure before disconnecting?
Thanks!
#2
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#3
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If you're in it for the sport, have at it! But I just completed cam cover gasket and spark plug renewal, which involves pulling the upper intake manifold to get at the bank 1 cam cover. No need to bother the fuel rail. Also renewed the fuel filter without taking any steps to relieve the pressure and really didn't have any issue apart from what drained out of the filter.
I vaguely recall pulling both upper and lower intake manifolds from the 2003 a few years ago....have no recollection of diddling with the fuel-rail then, either, but maybe I did and just don't remember?
Edit: Ah...just noticed you have the 2002. I know the air box and filter are different on that one. Perhaps the intake, too? Maybe it is required to mess with the fuel rail?
I vaguely recall pulling both upper and lower intake manifolds from the 2003 a few years ago....have no recollection of diddling with the fuel-rail then, either, but maybe I did and just don't remember?
Edit: Ah...just noticed you have the 2002. I know the air box and filter are different on that one. Perhaps the intake, too? Maybe it is required to mess with the fuel rail?
Last edited by aholbro1; 08-31-2016 at 09:35 PM.
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Boo (09-16-2016)
#4
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NBCat
Thanks for your reply!!
Much ado about nothing I guess. I used the schreader valve with a rag over it and got about a tablespoon of fuel out.
I now have the intake manifold off. At what position should the fuel line be disconnected? The logical point would be the (approx 6") hose that connects to the fuel manifold. This hose appears to be rubber but is more substantial than that. Each end is slid over steel tubes but does not even have a clamp on it.
I have tried but can't slide it off of either tube end. Is their a trick to this? I'm afraid using more muscle or pliers for fear of damaging it.
Thanks!
Thanks for your reply!!
Much ado about nothing I guess. I used the schreader valve with a rag over it and got about a tablespoon of fuel out.
I now have the intake manifold off. At what position should the fuel line be disconnected? The logical point would be the (approx 6") hose that connects to the fuel manifold. This hose appears to be rubber but is more substantial than that. Each end is slid over steel tubes but does not even have a clamp on it.
I have tried but can't slide it off of either tube end. Is their a trick to this? I'm afraid using more muscle or pliers for fear of damaging it.
Thanks!
#6
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NBCat
Thanks for your reply!!
Much ado about nothing I guess. I used the schreader valve with a rag over it and got about a tablespoon of fuel out.
I now have the intake manifold off. At what position should the fuel line be disconnected? The logical point would be the (approx 6") hose that connects to the fuel manifold. This hose appears to be rubber but is more substantial than that. Each end is slid over steel tubes but does not even have a clamp on it.
I have tried but can't slide it off of either tube end. Is their a trick to this? I'm afraid using more muscle or pliers for fear of damaging it.
Thanks!
Thanks for your reply!!
Much ado about nothing I guess. I used the schreader valve with a rag over it and got about a tablespoon of fuel out.
I now have the intake manifold off. At what position should the fuel line be disconnected? The logical point would be the (approx 6") hose that connects to the fuel manifold. This hose appears to be rubber but is more substantial than that. Each end is slid over steel tubes but does not even have a clamp on it.
I have tried but can't slide it off of either tube end. Is their a trick to this? I'm afraid using more muscle or pliers for fear of damaging it.
Thanks!
Search Ford Fuel Line Disconnect Tool.
#7
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Unless you are attempting to change the breather hose under the lower inlet manifold, there is no need to remove the fuel injection rail or disturb the injectors.
Once you remove the upper manifold, place covers on the open lower inlet manifold openings so no foreign objects fall into the manifold and engine.
Be sure to change the IMT o-rings since you have the upper inlet manifold removed.
Refer to JTIS or the Workshop Manual for procedures and torque values. During reassembly, it is a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the bolt threads as the brass inserts can separate from the lower manifold if they seize to the bolts.
Once you remove the upper manifold, place covers on the open lower inlet manifold openings so no foreign objects fall into the manifold and engine.
Be sure to change the IMT o-rings since you have the upper inlet manifold removed.
Refer to JTIS or the Workshop Manual for procedures and torque values. During reassembly, it is a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the bolt threads as the brass inserts can separate from the lower manifold if they seize to the bolts.
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Boo (09-16-2016)
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Also, be careful with the plastic connectors on the breather tubes and the upper radiator hose. The hose that goes from the upper radiator hose to the coolant expansion tank is prone to separate at the connector, so be mindful as you move things about.
Be sure to clean the surfaces of the cylinder heads where the lower manifold seals make contact.
Whilst changing the cam cover gaskets, note that silicone sealer is required on the 'half-moon' plugs at the back of both heads and at the points where the timing cover meets the cylinder block. There is no need for sealer on the remainder of the gasket.
Be sure to clean the surfaces of the cylinder heads where the lower manifold seals make contact.
Whilst changing the cam cover gaskets, note that silicone sealer is required on the 'half-moon' plugs at the back of both heads and at the points where the timing cover meets the cylinder block. There is no need for sealer on the remainder of the gasket.
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Boo (09-16-2016)
#13
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I have now discovered a problem with a part I cannot identify. It is a rubber adapter on the end of a line that runs from the intake mainfold next to the attachment of the throttle body. The line runs under the manifold arms to the rear of the manifold attaches to an elbow and then downward to a large rubber adapter below it. It is this adapter that I need. The adapter then attaches to a pipe of some sort below it. I really can't see it well enough to describe better.
I cannot find this in the parts listing.
I am going to try to attach a photo. The red arrow points to the part.
Any part number info would be greatly appreciated.
I cannot find this in the parts listing.
I am going to try to attach a photo. The red arrow points to the part.
Any part number info would be greatly appreciated.
#14
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Gus (09-09-2016)
#16
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His 2002 should be more like mine I think...
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
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joycesjag (09-09-2016)
#17
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Gus, Rick
Gus is right. My car is an earlier 2002 model and looks like his.
I did manage to find the part number using the forum search after figuring what the correct term is for the part. It is a C2S50039 and they seem to be pretty available.
I'm going to my Ford dealer this morning on the off chance they have one. Otherwise I'll order on line and wait.
Thanks guys!!
Gus is right. My car is an earlier 2002 model and looks like his.
I did manage to find the part number using the forum search after figuring what the correct term is for the part. It is a C2S50039 and they seem to be pretty available.
I'm going to my Ford dealer this morning on the off chance they have one. Otherwise I'll order on line and wait.
Thanks guys!!
#18
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Just to close things out. I went to the Ford dealer and went through his parts listings for the LS. We couldn't find anything so I ordered and received the Jaguar part.
Purrs like a good kitty now!
Thanks to everyone for the advice. The JTIS provides a good outline but there is nothing like the voices of experience who have been there before me to help with the details.
Purrs like a good kitty now!
Thanks to everyone for the advice. The JTIS provides a good outline but there is nothing like the voices of experience who have been there before me to help with the details.
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