How long do these three separate messages stay on the dash?

 

Codes don't Go away unless you fix the problem !
After the problem is fixed it takes three warmup cycles to clear !
What code do you have ?

 

Continued driving may well be causing damage so read & fix 'em soon

 

So, these are the same three codes that dogged the PO and I thought were taken care of (and may well have been) when car was emission checked and passed by the state of Arizona before we transferred title. The right/left bank codes P0171 and 174 (lean bank) and drive cycle code P0100. The baffled intake tube was total crap bodged with tape and silicone goo. I replaced it with an aluminum tube (3 1/4") and prettied up the SC intake with new black paint at the same time. So plenty of room here to create a leak there. Also did that delicate engine clean up which may have caused the transmission module communication code dealt with in another post, btw (since then no problems).
The reason I asked the question is that the amber MIL and restricted performance will occur after shut down and restart or during drive cycle and almost immediately go out. And of course the CEL will remain. No noticeable performance degradation (except when RP lcd is indicated in window). Freeze Frame shows bank 1 LTFT at 19.5 and same for bank 2. short terms are 7 and 2.3 respective. I've only driven it on short runs after some tinkering with the replaced intake tube and obviously the codes return (after cleared with scanner). So it's to the JTIS and some more intensive work I suppose. The car runs as if there is no problem, fast, steady, no missing, etc. Nothing tactilely obvious. I'm just used to non-computerized vehicles, hammers and screw drivers. Forgot to mention all plugs, O2 sensors and coils are replaced. And yeah the car has high miles 168K.

 

Sounds like you are almost certain to have air leak(s). The whole intake should be air tight (and is from the factory).

Once fixed properly the codes and messages will go away without any OBD tool being needed.

 

gonna do a live data stream on the fuel trims and pin point the leak with propane. smoke test if that leads no where.

 

With trims like that , the propane test most definatly won't lead to nowhere.

 

Keep going Jagstuart!

I think you mean P1000? That means someone cleared all the codes and you have not driven the car far enough or the correct way so the readiness monitors can set.

As we have talked I think you have an vacuum leak at your P/B vacuum hose connection on the back if the induction elbow.

If you get it fixed please report back too.
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OK so . . . got out the camping propane bottle some hose and a length of copper tubing. checked all around the intake tube, MAF sensor and found no change in stft (base was 12.3 for bank 1 and 7.8 for bank 2). poked it into the approx. area of the PB vacuum elbow at the sc induction intake and they dropped to 10.9 and 5.5, (and one scan was 10.2 and 4.7). stft went back up when i pulled it out. all this done at idle. is this enough of a change to indicate the leak. seems iffy to me. not a whole lot of propane is gassing out of the copper tube mind you.

 

This a better method to go by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WnM_NsOtd8
watch round 22 mins.

If this not the problem than go to the second vid and watch the start as a weak fuel pump can produce these codes as well.

 

going to try carb cleaner this morning as it may be less specific, covering more area with more flammable vapor.

 

Yes I have had better luck with carb cleaner. It's more concentrated and with the spray tube you can zero in on certain connections.
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how about starter fluid aka ether?

 

If that's all I had I would use it. But I think putting a concentrated shot in a small area helps pinpoint the area better.

Starting fluid evaporates so fast it might not hang around long enough to get sucked into the engine but who knows?
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got the two vacuum intakes in the induction intake fixed (brake and bypass supplies). ltft and stft were looking good on test run. stopped, short shut down, restart and viola! codes for lean banks again. plus limp mode, which went away once under speed again. double checked repairs (carb cleaner and i930 monitoring) and they're good. any other obvious/chronic leak areas?

MORE INFO: went out and scanned it again just now. cold idle stft both banks at -4.7, both banks ltft 19.5
just within operating temp 2 1500 RPM stft bank 1 -3.1 bank 2 -4.7
ltft banks 1 & 2 -8.0

so do i just need to let the ecu learn a new ltft number or do i have an obvious leak as show by idle values?

 

Did you actually fix it? Or is this the same "fix" alluded to here?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...5/#post1686554

 

no, tore into it and replaced the leaking o-ring/collar and R/R the hard as rock hose to bypass (which tested good BTW). no change in scan values when testing with carb cleaner. it's tight.

 

have you watched this vid it is really help full in understanding the problem you have.

go to the end and it will show you how the trims should change if you have a air leak.

If you go to the start of part two it will show how to check to see if you have a weak fuel pump.
both of which can give you a lean code.

 

This is á shorter vid and show you the same things what you are looking at


They show that you still have a vacuum leak.

 

as it looks like the test are not working try making a one of these.