So did you sit in the back of the jag? LOL

 

comedian!!! this is exactly why we have 3 pages of BS on a subject!

So did ya' Jon?

 

Nope, just moved the drivers seat all the way back on its rails, tilted the seat back as much as I could, and stretched out my legs while cruising down I-40. We stopped for lunch both ways so I was able to stretch out in the restaurant as well. All in all, a very nice trip....

 

Is it just me, or has it been quite nice and quiet around here? I know, too good to be true. Maybe he's out sick today!

Bwaaaa Haaaa Haaaaa

 

Another what blender, TV, S-Type or warranty?
Samy I take it you mean warranty, do a search on "warranty" here. There are lots of threads to read about that topic. You are the only one that can make that decission.

 

The 3.0 engines put out about 240 hp or so.

Mike

 

The 240hp was after the facelift, so 2003 on, maybe?

 

zero horses on a 3.0

 

Hi all,
New here and thought I'd touch base with my fello Jag owners and maybe pick up some tech pointers. Isn't the net a wonderplace to get informed?
Just bought a 2000 Type S with the 3.0. She isn't throwing any codes yet that I know of, (haven't pulled them yet or even noticed a check engine light either).
She is weak on power between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle when warmed up. Bought this for the wife 2 weeks ago. It's well used but clean clean exteriorwise. It has 117K miles.
I just pulled the intake off, and cleaned out the carbon with oven cleaner and rinsed with the garden hose. Next to remove is the valve covers to get that sealed up and repainted too. I don't think the spark plugs have ever been replaced, so that will get done also as well as a general degreasing. One of the air box latches doesn't secure, so that will also get addressed. I use RTV silicone to re-secure and replace the velcro tabs here and there that require reattahment.
3 years ago previously, I machined from a 76' Chevy truck a new lower ball joint to replace the one that fractured on the front starboard side for the Type S's previous owner. It to this day has functioned flawlessy and is greasable with no wear yet. So there is hope for the DIY'ers out there that you can keep your baby running smoothly and reliably for many years to come without breaking the bank. The joint had broke the wheel when it failed, but got a good matching one on ebay for a fair price.
Anybody got some alternate ways of dealing with the rear view center mirror? It has a compass that I'd like to keep. Additionally, the door mirrors don't motor at all and they not froze up. The fuse is good. How do you remove the switch to check for power to the main switch? I don't see any way to get the switch out without removing the whole door covering. Marc

 

Oven cleaner and a garden hose? You might want to search the term "limp home mode" here on the S-Type forum. You may be experiencing that very soon....

 

Depends on the brand of oven cleaner and the color of the garden hose.......
Marc are you sure it is a "she"??????

 

Yeah. I get those reactions all the time. It's a she, because if it were a he, it would smoke the tires from a 30 mph stomp. Tools are like weapons. (oven cleaner is a tool)They can either hurt you, kill you or save you. I have been learning from my mistakes all my life. I have a big list of what works and what doesn't. There are a lot of things that aren't recommended or familiar to people, but work very well in the right hands.
The intake is completely stripped of all parts before using the caustic inside of it. People should already know that. If I were to bead blast it internally instead, how could you be sure all the grit is removed? After the oven cleaner, I'll pass alumabrite thru it also. Then comes a wash with a baking soda solution. Then the tuning tract gate valves will work as they should. No limp home.
These greasy carbon deposits have come from the PCV system routed from the valve covers. I've been building car, motorcycle, diesel, and outboard engines for 40 years now and never seen an intake as gummed up as this one is and still run. This is an indication of blow by. There must be carbon sticking the compression rings limiting their movement allowing the blow by to occur. All this is caused by using marginal quality engine oil and or a mixture of oils. Volatiles are vaporized out, or boiled off inside the engine, and are routed up into the PCV system, where they reform as carbon in the intake.
This is a good argument for using synthetic oils. The syn is a natural multigrade, degreaser and decarbonizer, as well as being more consistent in quality and more temperature resistant. The lower vapor pressure of the syn oil goes a long way towards a cleaner engine. The previous owner was a big fan of the quikee oil changes with the cheapest prices. He was entirely much too preoccupied with the looks and never concerned too much with the internals. If he would have been pro-active in his maintenance, that ball joint would have never broke. It would be beneficial to people when thinking about oils to think of it as a can of soda. Just popping the top releases a lot of volatiles. Then you cook it down and then the rest of the co2 and water is removed. The viscosity will rise. In an engine, you have blow by which introduces fuel to the oil, bringing the viscosity back down, but cuts the lubricity. With a poor quality oil, just because it marks full on the dipstick, doesn't mean you have lubrication.
Everything I own has Royal Purple syn blend in it. I know it will clean behind and underneath those rings and the blowby problem will cease. It always works in these cases. I would never use the Lucas in the oil, but I do use that in the gas and diesel fuel systems. My Harley Twin Cam calls for 20W-50, but I am using 15W-40 RP diesel grade in it. When out on a run with the boys, I'll break out with the laser temp gun and compare engine temps. At the very least, my bike is running 20F cooler than the next coolest bike which usually has a skinny front tire. I have the fat fender and tire. They (HD) say I should change the oil around 3,000 miles, but I have 9,000 on the oil right now and it is still running cooler than my friends are with fresh oil HD syn oil. I am sure there might be other brands that can do the same thing for me. There is no question about that as I have been playing with oil for quite a while now. (I believe in extended drain intervals and oil analysis a lot). It's just that RP has a complete line of industrial, consumer oils, and they ship fast to whereever I am needing it, including out of the country. Which is another reason I go for the extended drain times in business, because in remote locations around the world, and offshore, you have to truck in and out everything you need or use up. There isn't the availability like we have here at home and the specs aren't always what you require. I work with air and nitrogen compressors that pump up to 5,000 psi. The wrong oil would spontainously combust very easily under these pressures.

Anybody out there know something about removing the mirrors on these cars?

 

Nice reply Marc. You will have to excuse us for being a little reactionary to "home cooked" solutions. Read some of the threads recently (past couple of months). There were some major knuckle heads here, so as soon as we hear "oven cleaner" our hair stands up and we're ready for another go around. The follow up on oil use and such was really good. Now, about that mirror thing.. There is a manual out there called JTIS, that while it is cumbersome to navigate, is really packed full of useful information. There is a thread for a download site that some have had success with. You can also readily find it on e-bay. I will look through mine and see what info I can find.

 

Marc-why go to all the trouble to install the incorrect lower ball joint? You have the early model car that shares the lower ball joint with the Lincoln LS. They are on EBay for about $60 each.

Also oven cleaner ONLY removes carbon. So if your going to use it, first degrease the area with carb claner or something similar. Be sure to use the old fashioned over cleaner. NOT the new stuff that does not contain Sodium hydroxide or caustic lye. Read the label.

Also understand your V-6 has a known problem with the PCV elbows. They deteriorate and leak. They are difficult to inspect because the intake has to come off. Don't forget the O-rings on the intake too. Those have caused problems in the V-6 models.
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Thanks for the kind words JO. It was most appreciated. That was my 2nd message to the forum, and I felt I had to throw a little of myself into it, and maybe I'd get to know you guys better. That JTIS sounds interesting. I'll read a manual before I read any novel for sure.
I did use up a lot of carb cleaner trying to ungunk the intake and wasn't getting anywhere. I have used the oven cleaner to clean up heavily carboned up pistons before without damaging the structure. It discolors it, and I don't like using it on everything, but it works fast and cleans up with water pretty nice. I don't need the intake to be spotless on the inside, but I wanted to be sure no chunks of stuff gets loose and wrecks an otherwise good engine.
I'm looking very close at those yellow o-rings. They don't appear to have been leaking, but due to all the concerns on here about them, I'll probably stick some buna N's in there.
When I made that ball joint decision, we didn't know any were available anywhere. We called all the parts houses and the dealer almost 70 miles away. Since I purchased this 2000 a week ago, I have become a bit more enlightened. I saved them a couple thousand doing this repair. The owners brother was supposed to do the machining for me, so that wasn't going to be that much trouble for me at the time, but after 2 weeks waiting for him to quit playing around with that $25 truck joint, I went got it and did it on my JET lathe here ar home. It went really fast. Cut the shoulder by straightening out the chevy taper, and then add in the shoulder spacer to get the ride height correct, (because it would be .150" to .200" off), then cut the outer diameter to about 1/2 thou interference fit. All this took about 20 minutes. It was fun to show the kid what you can do once you put your mind into it.
Lincoln LS stuff fits huh? That IS good info.
I received the new spare wheel from an Ebay seller yesterday. The guy never replaced that broken wheel, so I'll be buying 2 new tires to match the 2 new ones already on the car.
The wife is itching to drive her new car, but I have it out back on the lift till I am satisfied it's all ship shape. She is cool with that. Right now I have the front bumper cover off to get at the headlights. It seems somebody tried to take them off (to clean them) by using the aiming adjusters and broke it all up inside so the lights are all bouncing around in the housings. I'm sitting here looking at $400 a piece for those and am experiencing a wee bit of buyers remourse right now. Add to that, the center mirror all inked up, then the outer ones don't motivate. They also "painted" the front seats, and I'm looking at another large bill to recover all the seats. Local quote on this is $1000 to re-leather for all the seats to match. Then there is the headliner that needs doing. So the ball park estimate right now to get this beast in driving condition is another $3300. It drives and stops so good, and the paint is perfect. So I'm going to overlook the cost and get 'er done.
We really wanted a 60's E Type, but the price on the S Type is a lot easier to swallow right now.

 

Have fun with your S-Type rebuild. Sorry you're going to have to spend so much to get the car where you want it to be....

Cheap oil could be causing some of these misfire problems that we read about here, but there is a lot of suspicion placed on the original yellow intake manifold tuner O-rings. Rick (joycesjag) changed his to the thicker green O-rings back in the winter after he discovered that his factory O-rings were indeed leaking, and he has not had a problem since. If our S-Type throws more misfire codes (knock on wood that it won't), we're going to go ahead and change them to the green ones as well. Ours do not appear to be leaking at this point, and I'm hoping that our new air filter housing, air filter element, and mass air flow sensor have combined to solve our misfire problem. It's been more than a month and about 2,000 miles since these new parts went into the car, and the misfire issue appears to be gone (but perhaps just on hiatus). We'll see....

Keep us posted as you make progress with your S-Type. It's a great bang-for-the-buck vehicle from an acquisition standpoint, but some of the expensive maintenance issues that are known to rear their ugly heads can really diminish the overall experience for those who cannot perform most of their own maintenance. You're certainly not in that category, obviously....

 

I'm impressed you can tell if those o-rings are leaking or not. I'm guessing you using a stethescope and listening for the suction. Out in the field, we wrap them with teflon tape to stop leaks, and enter that in a report so the rings aren't forgotten about.
Right now I have my rt head lamp assy off and asunder. The headlight screw repair Brutal suggests just isn't going to get it done on this 2000 model. Boy do I wish it were that simple. We love quick fixes like that. There are 2 pieces I'll call the "T" pieces. These have the adjuster screw female threads. and one piece that I'll call a ball socket. This is more like a swivel anchor for the bottom of the reflector.
I was fussing over what material to machine the new adjuster parts out of. I also have to guess how long the ball ends stick away from the adjuster. I have to make 4 males and 2 females to repair both sides.
For those who haven't opened up the light assy before, it was a chore, and I will be following Brutals advise about sticking them in an over to soften up the glue beforehand before opening up the drivers side light assy.
These internal connecting plastic pieces have degraded into dust on mine. I have to make 6 parts to complete the repairs on both headlights. Experience tells me that I'll need enough material to make about 10 pieces. These failures seem strange to me because all the other plastic parts seem to be made to a much higher standard.
I like the UHMW, (Ultra High Molecular Weight), polyethelyne, or PE for short. This is the same stuff they make that clear packaging and soda bottles out of. You know the ones we have to use a razor blade to get into because it's so tough. We use this UHMW in industry for chutes and slides. Engine makers also use this material as cam chain tensioners. Billets of this stuff can be water jet cut or machined pretty easily. What's going to be hard is getting the dimentions correct. The ball joint is going to be threaded into the UHMW, so it will be similar to a stove bolt. Today I have to make some brownie points with the water jet guy if this is going to get done very soon.