Had all plugs changed -OEM,new coils #3&5. In test ran well for one drive, then collapsed with 1313 &1316, followed by 300, 301.303.305. Bad smell from exhaust. Mechanic says cat, bank 1 breaking down and you can indeed hear ignition noises in engine. I can turn off AC and drive mildly with no RP, but does show all these codes pending- even after clearing out. Get a new universal ( ca version) put in on Tues. for a touch under $500. If I put any real load fails first with 1313 &1316 and then shows misfires. Just time and about $1100 bucks total (time being more valuable to me). The guy at the muffler shop a well known one in Dallas has done these before and said the CA version is a touch more efficient and causes zero problems with S-types and ecm reads ect. Any danger of driving mildly or any potential of cat getting too hot, split and blowing off and catching the car on fire?

Tom in Dallas

 

Whenever you drive with a failing or failed catalytic converter, you run the risk of serious damage and a potential fire hazard. The problem is that you just don't know how much damage has already been done inside the cat and consequently, when the cat is gonna blow. The absolute best and safest approach would be to have the car towed to the repair shop. If you must drive it, I would do so ONLY when you are ready to head straight to the repair shop. I would have a fire extinguisher in the car with me and I would also have someone follow me in case there is indeed a catastrophe....

 

Thank you and you are right , of course.

Got a new cat today on passenger side and 2 new denso o2 senors OE fit as well. Car immediately drove fine. They check the the cat on left side and seemed fine. Drove to friends house fine, drove home via the freeway had no problem with car great acceleration, ect

However I ran codes after I got home and found pending p300, 302,204,306 1314 and 1316- now this is really crazy. had dno misfires and car ran so nicely- not sure what to make of this. I have unhooked the battery and will let car learn again.

Would the car be making some comparisons to the new cat and o2 sensors and trying to figure what is going on-- no p430 have I ever seen once. I saw plenty of p 420 before they morphed into the 1313 but this is very strange. The used a welders torch to put a small hole upstream and downstream on both (upstream on passenger side blew out crap all over the place. Upstream on left was fine. They put a spot weld in place- wonder if the cat too is just going out- perhaps in Texas heat, 75K and 9 years and most of it shorter city trips create the perfect storm (still seems strange)- No rp at all on way home. Used sport transmission mode- going up an incline- stepped into passing gear and zero problem. Got home reset battery. Waited a touch- drove around with no real load on the engine, made 4 stops, washed car (NOT engine- learned my lesson) but zero problems and only p1000. I will see if I force it tomorrow if the codes return.

I just got new plugs put in all around -replace #3 and 3% coils (they were fine, but decided since they are hard to get to to do that) and now this- seems very strange. Thoughts?

The one on the passenger side had broken down and the metals inside came out like sand.

Help- any thoughts. it is simple enough to get it replaced and perhaps I should have done that today, but first time for that bank to do what it was doing.


HELP-HELP with ideas.

Thanks

Tom in confusion in dallas

 

Did you clear the codes?

 

Yes.

Reset computer by unhooking battery- re-drove it with 4 needed stops-stop and go traffic,maybe got speed up to 50 without any problems. All idle roughness seems gone, no weird engine noises from straining when going from first -third, more pep than I can remember for sometime. looking at instant fuel on instr. panel seems I am doing a little better on mileage. Came back and had the expected code 1000.

I will drive on highway later this morning and come back on same route. Will drive evenly, but not like an old maid and see what happens.

Would you agree that the reading sound funny. I have had not one p0430 or p1314 at all and then just out of the blue. perhaps it is just breaking down and at idle it appears fine and under heavy load with temps at 100 degrees I do not have have the flow-thru I need.

However I find it funny and strange. I heard no per-ignition sounds as I heard before.

so????????????????????????

Thanks

Tom in Dallas

 

See what happens after P1111 flags, so long as that is soon. Need a least 2 warm ups.

It'll struggle to flag misfires unless it can get to P1111 - unless they're bad misfires in which case expect cat damage I suspect. (It's tough to detect misfires. It'll detect ones you have no idea are happening, though.)

 

Did you not have problems with your cats and misfires as well. I thought I remember reading that?

So you are saying to ignore the pending for now and leave alone, not reset and let it go through and make adjustments to how it is reading the system. I suspected after resetting the computer via battery disconnect that
it might set a pending and then they go away while they adjust to a new learning pattern. I had seen that before, but cannot remember which codes it has as pending and then they disappeared not to be seen again. Of course, if one did not check, then it would happen and we would never know.

When we were doing the cat and under the car on the lift, you could more easily hear the misfires, however when the new cat was on- that cleared up and no misfires.

My Persian cat at home seems much more consistent than this Jag cat right now and she is older- ha!!

Does not one of the computer checks require that I have less than a full tank of gas?

Tom in Dallas

 

Mine haven't caused trouble (yet?)

So long as you explicitly cleared them after the work there is every reason not to do it again as it can't get to P1111 if you keep doing it and you may stop it diagnosing via (non-pending) codes. If you don't get P1111 after 2 warm ups and drives, worry.

 

For whatever reason on this car and perhaps it is the series of short trips I take (I bought the car in April 09 (had 31k then) and since then have put 44k on it- many of my trips I might not drive over 45 mph)) the comp component, evap system monitor seem to take longer than 2 warm up drives to complete, but eventually they do. I thought that the evap system needed to have less than 85% gas in in the tank, but I stand to be corrected.

Tom in Dallas

 

I've been running a set of eBay coil packs on my 01 S Type for about 2 years, no problems. The entire set of 6 cost me $67. Replace them all.

 

None of my coils were really bad from a testing standpoint, but #3 had given me trouble ofter washing the engine and I replaced that and #5 since I can get to the rest at any point I need to without having to go through the manifold issue. the plugs were quite carbonized, but zero water or oil in the sockets.

Tom in Dallas