My Patience Is Gone - F* This Car!! - Limp Again "FIXED"
#163
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Location: PHX some of the time
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#164
#165
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#166
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Unfortunately, it happened again; but I think I have a bead on it. Try this on for size.
Previously, I was unaware that the car could throw codes without the check engine light coming on. After getting my code reader and the JTIS, I noticed that the code coming up is P1344 (as before). Armed with this, I went to the JTIS and looked up the possible issues: Bad accelerator pedal, shorts, high resistance, and open circuit. Since the accelerator pedal is new, I immediately ruled that out. What occurred to me was that none of the dealers said anything about the connector that goes into the pedal.
I went under the dash this morning and checked the connector. The locking mechanism on it is loose and I can ever so slightly wiggle it. Here is is the good news, I started the car and began wiggling the connector on the pedal - guess what?! LIMP MODE!!!!!!!
I am now trying to find out a couple of answers: 1) Can I buy a new connector and terminals to create a new connection 2) Can I find a salvage car and cut the harness and get the wires and connector 3) Can I buy a new portion of the harness (some kind of pigtail) and plug-n-play. It figures I would find this out after my buddy sold his Jag that I used for parts previously. Another one of life's small ironies!
I feel good that I can duplicate the problem at will now. Notice that I have gotten smarter since the last posts? Who says you can't pour knowledge into a rock?!
I do believe that I was dealing with multiple problems because a long period went by after Jason and Jeff's fixes.
Ain't no Jag gonna beat me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Previously, I was unaware that the car could throw codes without the check engine light coming on. After getting my code reader and the JTIS, I noticed that the code coming up is P1344 (as before). Armed with this, I went to the JTIS and looked up the possible issues: Bad accelerator pedal, shorts, high resistance, and open circuit. Since the accelerator pedal is new, I immediately ruled that out. What occurred to me was that none of the dealers said anything about the connector that goes into the pedal.
I went under the dash this morning and checked the connector. The locking mechanism on it is loose and I can ever so slightly wiggle it. Here is is the good news, I started the car and began wiggling the connector on the pedal - guess what?! LIMP MODE!!!!!!!
I am now trying to find out a couple of answers: 1) Can I buy a new connector and terminals to create a new connection 2) Can I find a salvage car and cut the harness and get the wires and connector 3) Can I buy a new portion of the harness (some kind of pigtail) and plug-n-play. It figures I would find this out after my buddy sold his Jag that I used for parts previously. Another one of life's small ironies!
I feel good that I can duplicate the problem at will now. Notice that I have gotten smarter since the last posts? Who says you can't pour knowledge into a rock?!
I do believe that I was dealing with multiple problems because a long period went by after Jason and Jeff's fixes.
Ain't no Jag gonna beat me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by bertrandgray; 08-23-2011 at 01:27 PM.
#167
#168
#169
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I went on car-parts.com and put in a request for the parts, but I believe the issue now will be getting the parts. I am not sure I know what tools I would need to try and fix the existing connector, but I will begin looking. Given the locking mechanism issue, I might feel more comfortable with a good "snap" when the connector mates with the pedal assembly. However, if I can't find a part in a timely manner - that may have to do for a while.
#172
#173
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#174
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I'm almost certain a Lincoln LS pedal is interchangeable. Contact George "Androulakis". He'll def know, as he developed a Jag/Lincoln parts interchangeable list. Wait! George developed a list here on the forum...check around for it or ask moderator.
Last edited by bfsgross; 08-23-2011 at 05:13 PM.
#175
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I was thinking of insulating tape, make sure you have a good connection on the pins then secure it with tape zip ties or whatever.
1 and 2 could be accomplished by inspection (any suggestion on tools for this?), but 3 would be difficult to validate that the connector was properly seated since the locking tang is loose. I could just press it together as hard as possible and try to tape it to the accelerator pedal assembly. I looked at a wire tie, but the bottom of the pedal assembly is somewhat smooth and it could slip.
I am willing to try any method that avoids cutting into the harness, but it may come to that.
As usual, I am grateful for the help and advice.
#177
#179
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we do sell the throttle pedal at work, I know thats not much use to you, but perhaps, you might have received a bad one?
All of that said, I rule out nothing. If after repairing/replacing the connector and the fault continues; I will queue up another pedal just to eliminate that as a variable.
Bert Quote of the Day:
The only difference between beating two rocks together and me beating my head on a rock is that the two rocks make sparks!
Last edited by bertrandgray; 08-23-2011 at 09:00 PM.
#180
Join Date: Sep 2008
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I would do a pin drag test in the female pins to see how "TIGHT" they are. If its a loose fit youll have these issues. I do these alot when running into issues like this. NOW, you dont really have a access to the male pins to check. But either way its not the connector thats the issue, but more than likely the pins being slightly spread and a loose connection thats intermittent. This issue is a big ger issue on items like CAN network and safty items like air bags, SRS, and fly by wire throttle body and pedals. They cannot have any momentary faults like loose pins. These throw immediate faults. See how this fits youre issue as well.....leaning towards this. Most dealers should have a well stocked Jaguar factory repair kit. These should includes ALL known Jaguar pins, male and female, gold and tin. Forget the connectors, Ive been trying to get these for yrs in a kit but Jaguar doesnt seem interested. Toyota does though and there are connector numbers on all connectors to get the correct ones. Would save alot of money for both the factory and more so the cash paying customer.
You can have the dealer "repin" new pins in the connector and see how this works. I wouldnt charge more than an hour for this, maybe less. depends on how messy the kit is and how hard to match up the pins. I like to keep ours organised and get pissed when people dont get new pins ordered or just stick them back in any ole slot instead of the numbered ones where they belong
You can have the dealer "repin" new pins in the connector and see how this works. I wouldnt charge more than an hour for this, maybe less. depends on how messy the kit is and how hard to match up the pins. I like to keep ours organised and get pissed when people dont get new pins ordered or just stick them back in any ole slot instead of the numbered ones where they belong