My project on the SC removal and Stuff
#1
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Man what a process to get the SC off the car.. all for a stupid knock sensor. By the way autozone carries the oem replacement from Denso.. both are the same . their system shows a different one for the pass side but its not true..trust me on this i just went through it...50 bucks for both...what a stupid job for 50 bucks of parts.
I have to say the guide and thread by 2tees was invaluable. Especially pertaining to the egr removal. I cannot state how important it is to take off the shield and cabin box. I also did disconnect the 3 heater hoses along with removing the 2 clamps to the wheel well. I also removed the strut brace. these 3 things make the entire world of difference in the ease of reaching the egr and its maybe 1/2 hour of time max to do all 3...so do it!
Also, liquid wrench is your friend...i sprayed egr bolts 3 times in the evening and let is soak over night...all 4 bolts came off with zero effort using a 1/4 drive rachet. there is alot of talk about pb blaster... but a study has shown that LW requires 125 lbs of torque and pb requires 214 to remove the same rusted bolt..google it !!
since im into such a crazy project im doing other things as well. I am so looking forward to how she runs after all this is done.. I expect wonderful things
1: replcase the under SC hose.. Mine looks 100% but might as well.. i found on amazon for 15 bucks !
2: replace every gasket pertaining to the project. "egr gaskets. 2 X thermo housing, 2 x SC gaskest, TB gasket.
3: open, clean drain SC and refill SC oil.
4: replace Valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals and replace spark plugs with NGK iridiums
5: replace both belts with gatorbacks
6 and for the hell of it install a new MINA SC pulley since the SC is off the car and it cant get any easier than right now.
7:Redo/replace all couplings for mafiso initak and new clamps.
8: put back together and hope i dont miss a connection somewhere.
that should cover it!!
I would have posted pics and a guide like i did for the TB removal but this is just to huge of a process so if anyone wants, needs any hints or tips based off of my experience, just hit me up... im at this spot right now in the pic as of noontime today...I have 8 different orders for parts out so now its just waiting on when stuff arrives so i can complete. i expect to be done during the day saturday.. barring no more snow which already killed a day.
I have to say the guide and thread by 2tees was invaluable. Especially pertaining to the egr removal. I cannot state how important it is to take off the shield and cabin box. I also did disconnect the 3 heater hoses along with removing the 2 clamps to the wheel well. I also removed the strut brace. these 3 things make the entire world of difference in the ease of reaching the egr and its maybe 1/2 hour of time max to do all 3...so do it!
Also, liquid wrench is your friend...i sprayed egr bolts 3 times in the evening and let is soak over night...all 4 bolts came off with zero effort using a 1/4 drive rachet. there is alot of talk about pb blaster... but a study has shown that LW requires 125 lbs of torque and pb requires 214 to remove the same rusted bolt..google it !!
since im into such a crazy project im doing other things as well. I am so looking forward to how she runs after all this is done.. I expect wonderful things
1: replcase the under SC hose.. Mine looks 100% but might as well.. i found on amazon for 15 bucks !
2: replace every gasket pertaining to the project. "egr gaskets. 2 X thermo housing, 2 x SC gaskest, TB gasket.
3: open, clean drain SC and refill SC oil.
4: replace Valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals and replace spark plugs with NGK iridiums
5: replace both belts with gatorbacks
6 and for the hell of it install a new MINA SC pulley since the SC is off the car and it cant get any easier than right now.
7:Redo/replace all couplings for mafiso initak and new clamps.
8: put back together and hope i dont miss a connection somewhere.
that should cover it!!
I would have posted pics and a guide like i did for the TB removal but this is just to huge of a process so if anyone wants, needs any hints or tips based off of my experience, just hit me up... im at this spot right now in the pic as of noontime today...I have 8 different orders for parts out so now its just waiting on when stuff arrives so i can complete. i expect to be done during the day saturday.. barring no more snow which already killed a day.
The following 3 users liked this post by fergs03R:
#3
#4
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here is the test btw
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
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#8
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Man what a process to get the SC off the car.. all for a stupid knock sensor. By the way autozone carries the oem replacement from Denso.. both are the same . their system shows a different one for the pass side but its not true..trust me on this i just went through it...50 bucks for both...what a stupid job for 50 bucks of parts.
I have to say the guide and thread by 2tees was invaluable. Especially pertaining to the egr removal. I cannot state how important it is to take off the shield and cabin box. I also did disconnect the 3 heater hoses along with removing the 2 clamps to the wheel well. I also removed the strut brace. these 3 things make the entire world of difference in the ease of reaching the egr and its maybe 1/2 hour of time max to do all 3...so do it!
Also, liquid wrench is your friend...i sprayed egr bolts 3 times in the evening and let is soak over night...all 4 bolts came off with zero effort using a 1/4 drive rachet. there is alot of talk about pb blaster... but a study has shown that LW requires 125 lbs of torque and pb requires 214 to remove the same rusted bolt..google it !!
since im into such a crazy project im doing other things as well. I am so looking forward to how she runs after all this is done.. I expect wonderful things
1: replcase the under SC hose.. Mine looks 100% but might as well.. i found on amazon for 15 bucks !
2: replace every gasket pertaining to the project. "egr gaskets. 2 X thermo housing, 2 x SC gaskest, TB gasket.
3: open, clean drain SC and refill SC oil.
4: replace Valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals and replace spark plugs with NGK iridiums
5: replace both belts with gatorbacks
6 and for the hell of it install a new MINA SC pulley since the SC is off the car and it cant get any easier than right now.
7:Redo/replace all couplings for mafiso initak and new clamps.
8: put back together and hope i dont miss a connection somewhere.
that should cover it!!
I would have posted pics and a guide like i did for the TB removal but this is just to huge of a process so if anyone wants, needs any hints or tips based off of my experience, just hit me up... im at this spot right now in the pic as of noontime today...I have 8 different orders for parts out so now its just waiting on when stuff arrives so i can complete. i expect to be done during the day saturday.. barring no more snow which already killed a day.
I have to say the guide and thread by 2tees was invaluable. Especially pertaining to the egr removal. I cannot state how important it is to take off the shield and cabin box. I also did disconnect the 3 heater hoses along with removing the 2 clamps to the wheel well. I also removed the strut brace. these 3 things make the entire world of difference in the ease of reaching the egr and its maybe 1/2 hour of time max to do all 3...so do it!
Also, liquid wrench is your friend...i sprayed egr bolts 3 times in the evening and let is soak over night...all 4 bolts came off with zero effort using a 1/4 drive rachet. there is alot of talk about pb blaster... but a study has shown that LW requires 125 lbs of torque and pb requires 214 to remove the same rusted bolt..google it !!
since im into such a crazy project im doing other things as well. I am so looking forward to how she runs after all this is done.. I expect wonderful things
1: replcase the under SC hose.. Mine looks 100% but might as well.. i found on amazon for 15 bucks !
2: replace every gasket pertaining to the project. "egr gaskets. 2 X thermo housing, 2 x SC gaskest, TB gasket.
3: open, clean drain SC and refill SC oil.
4: replace Valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals and replace spark plugs with NGK iridiums
5: replace both belts with gatorbacks
6 and for the hell of it install a new MINA SC pulley since the SC is off the car and it cant get any easier than right now.
7:Redo/replace all couplings for mafiso initak and new clamps.
8: put back together and hope i dont miss a connection somewhere.
that should cover it!!
I would have posted pics and a guide like i did for the TB removal but this is just to huge of a process so if anyone wants, needs any hints or tips based off of my experience, just hit me up... im at this spot right now in the pic as of noontime today...I have 8 different orders for parts out so now its just waiting on when stuff arrives so i can complete. i expect to be done during the day saturday.. barring no more snow which already killed a day.
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fergs03R (03-21-2013)
#9
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My 03 STR just got painted and is now my toy car. Sold the Lotus and Alpine so there is room on the garage.
The plan was just to replace the SC oil and valve cover gaskets but have read enough to believe the SC coolant return could be the bit that could be the undoing of my renewed favorite.
Did you compile a list of parts you sourced such as gaskets the knock detectors and hoses? While we are waist deep in the disassembly what else would you suggest be replaced?
Lastly, I am looking for a STR shop manual. I last had the JTIS on a disc but lots it in a relocation..any guidance is appreciated..
Phil in Tenn
The plan was just to replace the SC oil and valve cover gaskets but have read enough to believe the SC coolant return could be the bit that could be the undoing of my renewed favorite.
Did you compile a list of parts you sourced such as gaskets the knock detectors and hoses? While we are waist deep in the disassembly what else would you suggest be replaced?
Lastly, I am looking for a STR shop manual. I last had the JTIS on a disc but lots it in a relocation..any guidance is appreciated..
Phil in Tenn
#10
#11
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Phil:
The last released version of the JTIS is on this forum and is a free download.
Be sure and get the JEPC (Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog) too. This is the same system the dealers parts guys use and it has a LOT more exploded diagrams compared to the JTIS. This is also free on this forum.
Yes the coolant hose under the SC can be a problem but I have 90K on my daily driver 2005 STR with no issues. I do however have all the parts in my garage. If I need them then I am ready. If I don't need them they will go with the car when I sell it. I estimate that I have about $300 in parts on standby.
Consider changing the fuel rail dampner’s out when you have the SC off. There are 2. We have a had a couple of people with very painful and expensive repairs because of this. It's a new problem to me and I think it's very rare, Thankfully!!
Looks like the internal O-ring fails because of exposure to alcohol in the gas. At this point I am not sure what to do. There is talk of an improved compound for the O-ring but no part numbers have been offered yet.
.
.
.
The last released version of the JTIS is on this forum and is a free download.
Be sure and get the JEPC (Jaguar Electronic Parts Catalog) too. This is the same system the dealers parts guys use and it has a LOT more exploded diagrams compared to the JTIS. This is also free on this forum.
Yes the coolant hose under the SC can be a problem but I have 90K on my daily driver 2005 STR with no issues. I do however have all the parts in my garage. If I need them then I am ready. If I don't need them they will go with the car when I sell it. I estimate that I have about $300 in parts on standby.
Consider changing the fuel rail dampner’s out when you have the SC off. There are 2. We have a had a couple of people with very painful and expensive repairs because of this. It's a new problem to me and I think it's very rare, Thankfully!!
Looks like the internal O-ring fails because of exposure to alcohol in the gas. At this point I am not sure what to do. There is talk of an improved compound for the O-ring but no part numbers have been offered yet.
.
.
.
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PhilT (04-12-2013)
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