Hi everyone,
I am new to the forum and would appreciate and advice anyone can offer on the following issues.
I have just purchased a 2004 S Type diesel Auto with known issues hoping I will be able to rectify the problems myself. Having no experience with this car as yet I know it will be a learning curve. I know this but I like to have a go and hopefully with advice from some of you with knowledge and experience I can have it all running as it should fairly soon.

My issues are -
1/ No electronic park brake operation!
I have no messages showing. It is in the off position. When engaging and disengaging Park I can hear possibly 2 relays operating in the dash but nothing else happens. I have disconnected the park module in the boot and re-connected but no change.

2/ Trip computer not working! pressing the select button on the indicator stalk does nothing. I have noticed that the red and amber warning lights do not cycle on when switching on the ignition ( think they should as a bulb check but not sure?)

That,s all the info I can list so far so if anyone can offer some advice it will be much appreciated,
many thanks,
John.

 

Stalk or its wiring may be faulty but I'd ignore till other fault figured out.

In case you hit diesel-related issues be sure to ask those on the UK forum as not sold into USA/etc.

Do you mean EPB module behind liner (nearish fuel flap)? That's where it is...

You can operate motor with care using wiring (with fuse!) after disconnecting module, to prove whether motor OK.

Jag dealer-type tool can talk to EPB module for diagnostics.

Yes there's a lamp check so may have a fault, possibly related to stalk. Again, may need dealer tool to diagnose. DIY is risky but potentially via JLR Mongoose.

Check all fuses & relays in all 3 (more on diesel?) fuse boxes.

Gus's site www.jagrepair.com probably has elec guide - this site has free workshop manual JTIS but does not cover diesel at all. (Most still applies of course.)

 

Let me ask possibly a dumb question. How do you know it's not working?

 

Hi,
Thanks very much for that advice.
I was referring to the brake module in the r/h side of the boot.
I have seen some online diagrams but not of any use as yet.
I have been searching the forums but no one seems to have listed a similar problem with the brake ie, being dead. I am eager to test the motor now as you have suggested but can i ask how do you remove the wood trim surrounding the gearstick? I dont want to go and force it and perhaps do some damage.
Thanks,
John.

 

Hi,
I purchased the car with this and a few other problems and was told of them by the seller.
From what I have been told if the car is in drive or neutral and you apply the foot brake pedal you can then operate the hand brake lever that engages the brake. The car should then hold on the handbrake until either you disengage it on the lever or drive away. I do that but no indications on the dash and no brake, ie, car moves.
If I put the gear stick in and out of park I can hear possibly 2 relays operating. If i operate the hand brake lever there is no sound of any relays at all as though it's not connected?
Hope that makes sense,
John.

 

I have just been reading in the handbook and it says the message centre should give a message for certain status's, problems. I have not seen any such messages so have just gone to car and opened the boot then started the car. At this point I should have a warning saying the boot is open in the message centre but I have nothing so I beleive the message centre is not working. Question is Why? can it be disabled?
Any ideas?
John.

 

I think this is an important clue. Possibly it is also not displaying the faulty EPB message.

 

Test motor from where the module is. Easy to see how from electrical guide where all colours etc are given. I can't imagine why you asked about the gearstick stuff.

 

Keep checking the entire car to see what else is not working.
Even if no light have you checked for codes?
.
.
.

 

Hi, thanks for your reply.
I have only just purchased the car and are not familiar with it at all yet. This is why I am asking for some initial guidance on this forum. I would have expected there to be a multiplug under the gear selector to the motor ( I am not sure) but to me this seems to be a less risky way to apply voltage to the motor to test it than to feed it from the loom at the module where if I get it wrong further damage and problems may occur.
John.

 

Hi,
yes I agree, I have been going over the car to see if there are other issues that might point to a common cause. At the moment I have the handbrake not working, no warning displays in the message centre and also when driving away the speedometer pointer drops to zero after a few seconds. I thought that may be down to a Abs sensor from what I have gathered on forums? - not too worried about that one yet.
I would like to check out the handbrake switch next because I do not hear any relays operating when i apply or release the switch but do hear the relays if moving in and out of park with the gear selector? I have nothing else to go on yet.
I am looking to buy a code reader, can anyone recommend a reasonably priced one. The car is a 2004 diesel and I think after this date any reader can be used to get the codes?
Thanks.

 

You can only bypass the module as I stated. You can't do it your way.

 

Yes, I have managed to download a circuit diagram. I can see RW and GW wires feeding motor brushes. Need another pair of hands now though?
The relay I can hear operating when the gearstick is put into park I now believe to be the inhibitor relay for starting so I am disregarding that.
Plodding on...
thanks

 

The relay you hear also prevents moving the gear selector out of P unless the foot brake is applied.

I wouldn't disregard the lack of speedo reading just yet. There's too many missing bit of info on the dash for them to be individual unrelated mechanical faults.

 

Well today I have found the reason why i have no messages in the message centre - some previous owner/ person has carefully taken the clocks apart and put black tape over the display!!! Why?
I have messaged the seller but he just says he did not know and was being honest in his description of the car.
Unbelievable...

 

Hi John and greetings from down under;

I must admit my first reaction to your revelation that black tape had been applied to mask these vital mssg outputs, was one of real dread. Second, third and fourth reaction applies to each of the big, brawny monsters that you take with you to the seller's to demand a full and immediate refund.

Please tell us you are joking when you wonder why this was done? Not all the crims were transported to Australia mate! Seriously, I have no idea of your legal rights in such an obvious case of fraud and dishonest trading. From many previous threads (incl UK Forum) I would think that you do not have to prove dishonesty by the seller - simply that it was sold to you unfit for purpose. Someone who knows the facts, please chime in to advise John.

In the meantime, there is something tangible and important you can do, if you are determined to try to salvage this car.. Purchase an OBDII code reader of the type recommended by JagV8, Mikey and others - and follow a simple but systematic read of the codes and warnings your car throws up - possibly heaps for some unscrupulous "bar steward" to go to this much trouble. Without all this basic info, coupled to your model, year etc, any "fly by the seat of your pants" approach will prob be a costly waste of time.

Sorry John. Not wishing to offend; but this has all the smell of a scam.

 

+1

but... redress against a seller is fairly easy if they're a trader or anyone with assets, and useless otherwise (no assets = you win but get no assets).

What to do depends partly on the above but then on how DIY you can be with what may be awkward computer issues.

Now, the lovely cheap elm327 is amazing. Just get one. If you have more complex needs about your only hope is a jag-type tool and then you get to choose your budget and which to buy. A clone JLR Mongoose is OK if you get lucky and a nightmare if not, for example.

Tell us what you prefer if you want more ideas.

I'd be very worried what else is bodged. You could be out a lot of money before you find out.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.
I purchased the car with known faults, the trader who sold it to me told me of the problems with the handbrake not working.
Speedo not working - suspect abs sensor.
I did not know about the display being taped up.
I have taken some legal advice on this matter and may follow it up depending on if any other problems come to light?
Today I have removed the tape from the message centres.
At last I can no see the problems - they are as expected.
1 - Park brake fault.
2 - Abs fault.

I have had my battery charging for 2 days now. I have disconnected the brake module in the rear wing for a 5 mins and then reconnected, switched on the ignition expecting to see a message to apply brake etc but nothing other than the 2 messages above? Tried again this time disconnecting the battery. Had an alarm sounding with the battery taken off and did not know how to silence it? then reconnected battery but no change? Do I need to take this into a garage now or are there other things I can try?
many thanks,
John.

 

Alarm has a backup battery.

You may be stuck but I'd try
disconnect battery
disconnect EPB module
wind EPB motor (via fused power) to one end
reconnect & hope
if no good, repeat but wind to other end

That's ONLY IF the battery is a good one. Time of charging is irrelevant if it isn't.

A jag indy won't be anything like as costly as a dealer but make sure they have IDS/SDD and know how to use it (dealers are iffy as well). It can read faults from the various modules.

ABS generally self-clears if no fault once speed above 10mph or so.

 

I will give it a go. What size fuse would you use to power the brake motor? Do you know what current it should draw?
Going back to the battery. How would you describe if the battery is good enough? At what point would you replace the battery?
Finally what does IDS and SDD stand for?
Thanks for the advice...