Winters project is upon me. Pulling the supercharger to change the coolant line and beyond. I do have a significant vacuum leak I'm blaming on the intake gaskets. I'll try to post pictures along the way

That being said..


I stole jya's picture and have a question..In the photo there is a hose next to a sensor..I tracked it to the EGR?




I need to order this hose also as it has a pin hole...I did try to find the part number on S-N-G Barratt's site. Anyone have a clue what the part number may be?

Thanks

 

that hose right there? Or that one?

 

Sorry..

On the back of the thermostat housing..there is a sensor then a hose I need ...then the hose that wraps back around to the expansion tank.

Thanks

 

Well..

We got started in earnest this morning with the supercharger removal. I was extremely disappointed to stumble on the fact that someone HAS been here before. I was pretty sure of that back in the fall. Whoever did the work before broke the end of the PCV hose that connects to the intake and decided the gluing it back with RTV would suffice.

Pretty bummed. Now I have to wait for the part...

 

Wow that was sure to leak! Good luck!

 

The 4.2L is not known for intake leaks but it can happen. If you have a vacuum leak be sure and check the swivel fitting on the back of the SC elbow for the P/B booster.
This has an internal O-ring that gets hard with age and then does not seal very good. It's difficult to find and I found mine by monitoring the fuel trims and spraying carb cleaner around the
intake and SC elbow.
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.
.

 

Thanks for the reminder. I'm planning on tapping out that hole in the throttle body and installing a fitting to avoid that leak in the future.

I was ready to do the intake gaskets..but finding the PCV hose disconnected has me thinking I don't need to. I posted MY fuel trims on here a while back and I think JagV8 choked on his tea.

Went ahead and pulled the front two supercharger bolts out and the entire assembly slid right out...


Rear hole was already slotted..

 

Yes I can see why that hose end clip was broken by the PO or junior mechanic. Removing those two air hose end clips was very difficult without breaking them. I got both off in the end without damage (large and small air hose) but there has to be a trick to removing them that I was missing.

 

I am in two minds whether to slot the rear hole you have pictured. Makes sense if you plan on not removing the rear air intake elbow of the supercharger and installing back as a 'whole' assembly but doing this (not removing the rear air intake elbow) it would be very difficult to tighten that bolt that sits under it that the elbow hides.
I have yet to put mine back but I think at this point it may be easier to reinstall the supercharger without the air intake elbow so you can tighten that rear supercharger bolt to the block and then install the air intake elbow (as per workshop manual). That way of course makes tightening the air intake elbow bottom LHS bolt without been able to see it. Also I noticed these air intake elbow bolts change from a regular head to a hex head; perhaps for this reason.

Regular head air intake elbow bolt on my 2002.5 STR.

Not sure if these hex head bolts were in the later cars to mine? May have been in the earlier cars to mine?

 

Well it's your car but I had to go back in a 2nd time on my 2005 STR to do the SC removal and I will say that on the second go around I DID finally slot that hole.
Brutal suggested it way back when and I think it does not have any downsides at all.
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Well that was quick. You available for spring to get mine off?

 

Dude!

If we didn't live 12 hours drive from each other I would absolutely drive over and help you! I've read your post's about the frustrating EGR bolt's.. 8mm head on a 2 1/4 inch long bolt was a nightmare waiting to happen. We need to finf a way to get the 13mm nuts off the intake and pull the entire EGR as one assembly.

 

jya-

I'm a little perplexed by the second photo? Mine were 10mm head to remove the intake elbow from the supercharger body. (Probably visible in one of my previous photos?)

How would these you posted be removed? They appear to be round headed? Perhaps they have a torx bit fitting?


Moving on to my adventures and I need to ask question and post some insights.

Questions first..Only one at the moment..Is there an "improved design" to the dreaded hose? The one I received from a forum sponsor looks the same as the one one the engine.

Insights..(1) If you do not have access to a tool assortment with several sockets and ratchet assortments.....You may be better to sort this out.

(2) Personally I found that getting a 3/8 drive connected to a 8mm 6 point with a 6 inch extension cracked the EGR bolts right off. You have to come at a ...30-40 degree angle to the firewall to get a positive connection.

(3) I'm not sure why? The bolts that secure the inlet elbow to the bracket that is on the intake manifold Gave me fits. I think I used 7 different configurations of 3/8 and 1/4 inch combinations to get the side bolts to release.

(4) Try to order all the parts and bit's you need you need prior to taking this on. I thought I had..the cobbled up PCV hose has set me back..waiting for the part has set me back about 10 days.

(5) In our cell phone world? Take pictures! If you have any delay in getting the job back together..They are a great point of reference..even in how the coolant hoses route that you took apart to start this endeavor

JMHO

 

Yes the second photo shows the same torx head bolts that I have on my 2006 STR

 

Yes Aarcuda, I thought they may had changed to the torx head on the later cars. Not sure if the torx head made it any easier of harder to remove??

 

My humble opinion?

I'll take a 10mm 6 point socket over a torx bit any day.

 

Instead of waiting for the broken PCV hoes to get here from across the pond..I called a Jaguar Land Rover Dealer we use for our warranty repairs. I was pleasantly surprised that is was actually cheaper than online..(I get wholesale pricing) and it was in stock at the warehouse.

Should be here tomorrow. With any luck this thing might be on the road by Monday.

 

Since most of these things go two steps forward and one step back..

PCV hose ended up delayed so I took all the aluminum parts to one of my Service departments on Sunday to use the heated parts cleaner..Supercharger..Coolant manifold..Inter cooler crossover came out great! 200 degree chemical bath did them all a nice clean up.

Then I got to the intake elbow..the sensor in MAP sensor was still installed... bummer..One of the Tech's toolbox happened to be unlocked and I stumbled through a Snap-on tool box until I found a T15 to remove the mounting screw...I scramble to find a computer I can get to my Google account to see how the sensor is attached other than the screw..cause this thing ain't moving. Humm.. Alright then can you use the same recently accessed tool source to try and push it out from inside the housing? I noted from the PC I gained access to that it is a press fit..(PC still using Windows 7..I'll rip my IT staff for that) I wiggle and pull. I wiggle and push..the end result is a 3 piece sensor. I reckon (local term) that the O ring had become so hard that it wasn't going to release from it's 17 year old seat.

Ordered a new sensor from the Jaguar Dealer..Kyle from the Cincinnati store got it for me pronto. If you've done this repair you know that this sensor is one of the first you connect as you reassemble. Part will be here Friday.

The Wife has me booked up this weekend getting ready for a neighborhood Superbowl party...Balmy 60 degree Monday in the forecast in Central Ky. With any luck I can take the day off and get this thing doing burnouts by Tuesday.

 

Latest update in this little adventure..

PCV hose is here..MAP sensor is here..EGR gaskets came in yesterday along with the coolant manifold to EGR hose.

The first thing I wanted to get under my belt today was to tackle the leaking plastic hose from the intake elbow to the brake booster. I went at it a little differently than Aarcuda did..He used a 90 degree fitting..either way will work.

I looked at the brass or bronze insert for a while..I recall someone telling Aarduca to simply knock it out? I used a drift from the inside first and it wasn't going anywhere. I chucked up a 1/2 inch bit in the drill and eased it in from the outside. I only drilled far enough to give be a lip I could fold in using a small chisel. Done. Once the inside was released the piece fell right out.

Now I used a 3/8 pipe tap..I used an 8 sided socket to turn the tap..




Off to Lowe's to find the appropriate fitting..



3/8 pipe thread with a 1/4 inch barb fitting will let me use standard vacuum hose to either connect to the brake booster fitting or run it all the way to the booster.

 

looks great!