some might recognize me from my other posts.
My right side headlight went out new years day coming back from dallas after the party but i was not sure then if it was out but i had a feeling it was out and then stopped at a place to check it out once out of the traffic and it was working so thought i was just being paranoid.
then on my way to work on the 3rd headlght was out and when stopped to check it really was out. so I went and got my self a new bulb and was going to replace then i saw that someone had tinkered with it (probably previous owner) there was couple of rounds of electric tape and the wire coming from the bottom was red both of them but one connecting to the bulb holder had black wire which was twisted with the one of the red wire.
thought that was all when done replacing them, and it was working too.
and now today when i pull out of parking lot it was not working again but once i drove for a little bit may be 10-15 seconds it came back on.
i hope its not going to cost me a lot to repair that through a dealer, in june paid them about 2500 for ac conrol unitt and then again paid 1500 for the oil fan leak and door insulation (that was the money i was going to use to get set of hid headlights from one of the very active member here).
so if someone knows with-in what kind of price frame i might get hit by?

 

what car model.....and why are you payin the dealer so much!?

 

The dealer's charging a lot. A heck of a lot. Must be expensive lemonade there.

 

its a 05 SType base model. yeah i am in podunk, Oklahoma so none other mechanics want to look at it so have to drive 100miles just to go see dealer for maintenance and shell out first born, arm and leg.

 

I`m sorry dude but I don`t understand the situation. Can someone translate?

 

Why the odd language? Just slows everything down.
Leedsman.

 

I think he said that he's got a non-functional headlight, thinks that somebody has played with the wiring and wants to know how much the dealer will charge him to fix it.

The high cost of his previous repairs might include simultaneous translation services.

 

You rang.

Sounds to me as if there is some hacked about wiring and the OP needs some help. If the light came back on again after driving for a while it would surely point to a poor connection.

How about posting a pick or two of the bad wiring if you are able to, this might help the guys out a little.

I have obviously no idea about the availability of independent garages in your area, why not post up a 'Looking for Independent Jag specialist near Podunk' request over in the regional section.

At least the forum might be able to help you to keep the family together, and just lose the odd toe or two. LOL

 

A headlight issue need not require a Jaguar mechanic.....

 

Sounds like the "twisted wire connection" is only connected some of the time.
To test this theory, unwrap the twisted wires, and if they appear somewhat clean, re-twist them and re-wrap them with electrical tape.
If the copper appears overly corroded, you can run some fine grit sand paper over them to get back down to clean copper wire.
Drive for a couple / few days and see if the problem is gone.
If it is, then I would suggest getting a soldering iron / gun, solder, and some heat-shrink tube and do the job right.

 

You obviously have a computer.. Do you have Adobe Acrobat reader? It's free. Get it if you dont.

When you do, let me know, I'll put the Wiring Diagrams on my server for you.

This isn't hard to do, and no need to be driving 100 miles to a dealer, which will probably tell you someone has hacked up the headlight harness and you need a replacement body harness at a bazillion dollars + tax.

George

 

Electrical diagrams are here: http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co..._Reference.htm

 

thanks for the wiring diagram. the wires were twisted together to keep it on place and had electric tape over it, which i took it out and instead bought some of the wiring clips and used them. after using the wiring clips it seems to be working, i do not have to wait or drive for a while for the headlight to come on. this is the second day after i used those clips will see if that will change over a week.
and for the reference this is what Podunk stands for
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Podunk

I was just frustrated with all the cost of repairing raking up when I had bought a car with only 40K miles and 5 years old. after shelling out almost 4K for small stupid stuff when none other garage want to work on Jag where I live. it is very tidious to drive 100miles for stupid small things that other garages could take care of. it might not have been a this much of hassle and frustrating if I was mechanically savvy as most of you guys are.
Thank you again for helping me out again.
My luck probably next week I will have another problem.

 

Not only 100 miles but they've ripped you off (gouged you)!

There again, I recall a member with a 900-mile round trip (Canadian, I think).

There MUST be a way to get jobs done properly at a fair price. Anyone help him find where or got ideas?

 

George and "jagv8"...you guys did a marvelous job helping "somedude" troubleshoot then restore power to his headlight.

 

there are places about 45 miles from where i live, they do do some work but they are always so much busy that they tell me to leave the car for atleast 4 days and them not being a dealer they cant provide me a loaner car which will make me rent a car. to rent a car it will easily be 400-500 being under 25 yrs old.
Just like the last time when I started to feel a little vibration in my car when applying brakes @ 60 miles an hour. and then when the car is on D and completly stopped, apply brakes makes the steering vibrate a little, i was preety sure that it had to do something with the brakes/rotors but making a trip to dealer; they told me front brakes still have 80% and rear have 70% left on them, and said there is no vibration. when i picked up the car it didnot have the vibration but it started again last night. now will be another trip again i guess.
how long can I wait with the vibration problem, right now i am kinda really low on budget.
I can hear a little rattle when going over uneven roads, on the last trip i was told that it was the door mirrors going loose which they are going to tighten but also said that if that rattle comes back I will have to buy new pair of door mirrors and quoted me $1200 for each mirror, is that true?
and to the members here from DALLAS TX where is the best place to get jaguar serviced?
the dealer I keep talking about is Park Place Jaguar.

 

This is going to be long, but here goes:

What year / model is this car? You sound like a younger guy on a budget who likes nice cars. I was in your shoes once, and although I'm no longer as young what I learned stayed with me.

Here's what I quickly realized. If I wanted to keep these cars, and still have enough $$ to eat, I had to learn to do things myself. Second thing I realized. Cars are just cars. Sure there are some specialty procedures that require dealers (like programming keys or remotes), but for the most part, as long as you go slowly, ask questions, and seek out help, you can learn to do things yourself. Do not be afraid or intimidated because there is a Jaguar hood ornament present.
Third thing I realized. You NEED the right tools for the job. This doesn't mean go out and buy some snap on box with every do-dad in it right away. What this means is, instead of paying someone else to do things, if you do them yourself you can buy the tools, and still usually come out ahead cost wise, with one advantage. You now own that tool, and the next time you need it it's free. As your skills, and abilities (and or needs) progress, you can get more and more tools. Personally 95% percent of my tools are from sears / craftsman. They are the best compromise between quality and value, and carry a nationwide lifetime warranty. If you break anything, and you will... You can walk into any Sears, put it on the counter and say it broke. They will replace it for free, no questions asked. I ran a ratcheting screwdriver over with a car, and cracked the shaft out of the plastic handle. I took it back and the guy not only replaced it, but since he didn't have the one I had (that included the bits) - he gave me a separate set of bits with more bits than the original screwdriver came with.

Now the first thing you are going to need is a SAFE way to lift and support the car with the wheels off. Do you have a garage or a relatively flat driveway where you can work?

Bare minimum you're going to need a decent floor jack, and a set of two good quality jack stands. Don't skimp here, you will have these for life, regardless of what car you own.

Next thing you are going to need is a good METRIC (for the Jag and all European cars, and some of the stuff on modern american cars). Socket set. I would start with a good set of sockets, 7mm - 21mm will cover 95% of your needs on these cars. Eventually you will want to get deep well sockets too, but start with regular ones first. Personally I prefer 6 point sockets to 12 point sockets because they keep a firmer grip on the nut, and have less of a tendency to slip and strip bolts. The most useful drive is 3/8". But I would get a 1/4" Ratchet, and a corresponding adapter for tighter places.

Eventually you'll get a 1/2" drive set, but leave that alone for now.

The next thing you are going to need is a good set of open ended closed end wrenches. Once again 7-21mm will cover your needs.

Next a set of screwdrivers - I would buy a flat / phillips set, and a ratcheting one or fixed one that takes bits to start. You are going to need a set of torx bits if you plan to work inside the jag. t-10 to t-40 should have you covered.

With those tools, you will be able to do 90% of the DIY jobs described on this site.
A hint about Sears. Follow the sales, they have some GREAT deals sometimes. Also go to the store and walk around the tool section. Sears has a habit of putting things really cheap on clearance. Usually it's because a new line has come out, but the old tools are just as good (but the newer one has the size written on it bigger for easier identification), or something like that. Remember, it doesn't matter, they are all lifetime warrantied.

Let me know if you need help selecting tools, or have questions about anything.

Now, as far as the steering vibration while braking is either lower ball joints on the earlier car, or warped rotors or possibly (but it would be rare) a bent / out of balance wheel.

I would really look at brakes here. But please tell us the exact year / model, and we will go from there.

Take care and don't despair.

Welcome to the club.

George

 

A big +1 on George's recommendation to watch Sears for their tool sales. Too many good stories to tell here, but I will say that back in November I purchased a full set of long-handled box wrenches in both metric and standard sizes for about twelve bucks. Lifetime warranty. Probably the best everyday tool deal I've ever come across. My older box wrenches were mostly short-handled and a haphazard collection of what I had scraped together over the past 40 years. This new set from Sears puts them all to shame, and they cost me twelve bucks on sale!!

Subscribe to Sears e-mail distribution list and make it habit to watch the tool sales. Yes, you sometimes have to wade through a lot of merchandise of no interest to you, but it is certainly worth it whenever you hit the tool jackpot on something you don't have or need to replace or upgrade....

 

u just nailed it, but with right tools n direction i can get there to achieve my dream car

 

I really DID like that contribution by Androulakis: It reminded me of me.
Leedsman.