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New Member– Trying to Troubleshoot "No Start" 2000 S-Type 3.0 V6
RE: 2000 Jaguar S-Type 3.0 V6
all stock, no modifications at all.
Greetings everyone,
My name is Dawn and I am here scouring through threads like a mad-woman and I am currently trying to start my car after having it sit for a while. I am grateful to have found this forum. I will start with the background of what happened before I parked it and where I am today. As mentioned, my first baby has been sitting for quite some time(over 2 years). I know! Iknow! please do not throw tomatoes at me, I will explain because I really do love my car and that is why I have not lost hope. I, SADLY,had to park my car. At the time, I was putting myself through Graduate school, only working part-time to be able to complete my hours for a really intensive internship, and raising a daughter– needless to say I was overwhelmed and finances were tight. Then, when the different miscellaneous "warning messages" started displaying in the dash, the thought of having to take the Jag to the dealer gave me immense anxiety. Before parking it, I was always very in tune with my car, and always sensed when something wasn't quite right, like when I could smell that my car was running a little hot or the coils sputtering--and would address the issue immediately. But, with going back to school and having a limited income, it was difficult I was really between a rock and a hard place in terms of fixing my precious car. So, in a sense, I really was forced to park my car.
Background/Symptoms:
I will try to list the symptoms in the order that I remember them happening, and please bear with me if my jargon is not correct.
The first thing I remember was the Heat stopped working,, fan was blowing, but was just blowing cold air. It wasn't too cold here, so troubleshooting the Heat, was not at the top of my "To do" list.
Then the "Left Brake Lamp Failure" warning came up. I checked the brake light and sure enough it was not working. I cleaned the bulb contact points, did not work, I replaced the bulb, still did not work. I had a mechanic friend look at it, and I cannot remember if he checked the fuse, but I do remember him saying it could be RECM. I was not in a position to replace it or to even have a Jaguar mechanic trouble shoot to verify if that was the problem. So, I just kept on...hoping to be able to take care of it soon.
Some time after a month or so (I cant remember exactly), when I was on the freeway, the "Trunk Ajar" warning light came on. I pulled over immediately, checked but my trunk was securely closed. Around that time, I had noticed that when I would use the keyless entry fob to open the trunk, the trunk lid would stick a bit and I would have to manually pull it open.
Then, I began to notice that my "unlock" button on Keyless Entry Fob wasworking/not working intermittently, it eventually stopped working completely. I replaced the battery, but the "unlock" button still did not work, while the other buttons did. From then on I had to unlock/lock the car with the key, and turn the alarm off (if it went off) with the key as well. Around this time as well, I think I remember that when I would press twice to unlock all doors, they would lock back up. Actually, to be quite honest, I cannot remember if the "re-locking" actually happened after the fob was no longer working at all and after II tried to lock it manually from inside. Now, that I think of it I think its the ladder.Side bar:| my new-used fob arrived yesterday, but I need to get it programmed.
Afterthe fob stopped working completely, I noticed "weird" things began to happen. My car alarm began to sound off randomly, this started to happen shortly after I started unlocking/locking the car with the key. If remember correctly, it almost seems that it would mainly happen in the middle of the night. At some point, to avoid having the alarm sound off, I began leaving my car unlocked, so my neighbors would not kill me.
Around that time, I also distinctly remember distinctly, coming out in the morning and finding my radio was on. I was a bit perplexed, but honestly, I did not think to much of it. But, paid attention after I exited the car and before walking away. Then it happened again and I knew that wasn't a fluke because I had made sure that the radio was off. What I cannot remember if I actually turned powered the radio off with the button before turning the car off, or if I just looked to make sure it was off once the key was out.
After the car alarm began to go off and radio turn on randomly, I noticed my car battery began having trouble. I am thinking that was due to the radio perhaps coming on at night and it being on all night. I woke to a dead battery several times. I charged it and took it to be looked at and they recharged it, was okay for a little while. Then the car died at the market, jumped it, only die again. At this point, I was super stressed out and like I mentioned I was not in a position to take it in to the dealer. I bought a new battery, it was okay for a while, but soon eventually started draining as well. So I reported it to department of motor vehicles as "Non-Operational"
I took that battery out and it collected dust
After reading threads, I have learned a few things that may have been the causing the symptoms stated above.
Heater not working -> Heater Control Module
Left Rear Brake Light --> blown fuse, corrosion in the wiring, poor ground, or maybe it is the RECM.
Alarm going off --> faulty fob triggering the PATS
Radio --> I am stumped, haven't had time to look that one up. Fuse maybe, problem within the radio circuitry, a ground,
Dead Battery --> Radio draining battery,
Current Status: Car will not start
First thing that I am need to trouble shoot is the car not starting-- really need to get this car back on
Things I have done so far.
Purchased a new after market battery, I know that these cars are very finnicky about power and battery, but I first just want to see that it starts and then go from there and get the more expensive Jaguar batter. Fluids were checked, mechanic checked fuel pressure and detected pressure, he checked the relays (we have not trouble shooted) fule pump relays yet, because he said that I should start with getting a new fob to see if the alarm issue triggered the PATS, and to see if the PATS is preventing the fuel injectors from working? He said that if after I program fob and try to turn off PATS(I cannot remember exactly what he said about the fob and PATS, so please be nice because it may be me misunderstanding something he said) and it still does not start, we can move on to trouble shoot fuel pump.
There's no way we can help with the concise details you have provided in a clear, well organized format. This is considered a serious breach of forum protocol. We are far more accustomed to cryptic messages written in textese with no punctuation.
With so much going on at once, check for water in the spare tire well. These cars are notorious for leaks into the trunk, which affects the many electronics bits back there.
For the turn signal issue, here are a couple of threads you may find interesting. Note how a failure of one fuse can cause problems elsewhere:
Also, make sure the correct bulbs are installed. IIRC, the rear turn signal bulbs are oddballs, and somebody may have installed a more common one, thinking they are all the same.
For the heater, look here, specifically posts #2 and #6:
For the no-start condition, does the starter engage normally? This isn't clear. Big difference in how to troubleshoot. If the starter runs normally, check for fuel pressure at the injector rail. The fuel pump is very prone to seizing if sitting inactive for long periods. Rule that out first and then there are other steps after that.
The very first place to start is with the battery voltage. Use a voltmeter and check the battery voltage across the terminals. If it's less than 12.6 volts, try charging the battery for 8 hours at 2 to 5 amps, then retest it. If the voltage is still below 12.6 volts, the battery should be replaced.
Another key thing to check is fuel pressure. This can be done at the schraeder valve on the engine fuel rail. Quite often when these cars are left unused for extended periods, the fuel pumps seize.
Ny heart sank when I began to read your reply, but then I got the joke!😂 I had read about water in the STW, and we recently had some rain so I kept an eye out and no water in there. But, again it wasn’t pouring down and don’t know if that would make a difference. Honestly, I can’t remember if I have ever had water in there. I don’t have an issue with the turn signal, it’s my rear left break light that is not working— unless it is the same light/bulb? I am assuming that when you ask “does starter engage normally” you mean does it turn and crank? If so, yes it turns and cranks but does not fire up. My friend checked for fuel pressure and said he detected it. So that’s why he said that if it doesn’t start after I program my fob, we trouble shoot the electric fuel pump first, then if that doesn’t work, replace the entire assembly. Is it possible that my non-working fob triggered my PATS which then shut down my fuel injectors? But again, he did say he detected pressure and said that was a good sign. *crossingfingers
2 year old fuel doesn't sound like a very combustible product.
See if your Tech had a pressurized container he can hook to the fuel rail with the specified pressure straight to the injector Schroeder valve and try to crank the engine over.
when you ask “does starter engage normally” you mean does it turn and crank? If so, yes it turns and cranks but does not fire up. My friend checked for fuel pressure and said he detected it. So that’s why he said that if it doesn’t start after I program my fob, we trouble shoot the electric fuel pump first, then if that doesn’t work, replace the entire assembly. Is it possible that my non-working fob triggered my PATS which then shut down my fuel injectors? But again, he did say he detected pressure and said that was a good sign. *crossingfingers
I'm a little confused by your friend's troubleshooting logic. If you have the correct fuel pressure at the injector rail, the pump is fine. There'd be no need to continue trying to fix something that isn't broken.
The only caveat is how was pressure checked? Was a mechanical gauge used, and did the results match specs? Or was it the infamous thumb test, where you verify some pressure, but that's it? You would have no idea if pressure was even close to specs. All bets are off if this friend has a calibrated thumb, though.
You had asked a similar question in a different thread, but it's best to keep it all in one location if possible. Too many threads covering the same issue can get very confusing.
Observe the PATS indicator light on the dash, at the base of the windshield. This is for the security system, which may have inhibited the fuel pump and/or injectors as a precaution. Here is how it's supposed to behave if all is good:
First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every 3 seconds or so (not sure of the exact time) to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault.
Okay, I had misunderstood the mechanic. There is not enough fuel pressure. As far my PATS, I am not getting any light at all- no blinking no solid read, absolutely no red light. What should I check next?
Okay, I had misunderstood the mechanic. There is not enough fuel pressure. As far my PATS, I am not getting any light at all- no blinking no solid read, absolutely no red light. What should I check next?
So it seems that you have a fuel pressure issue ILO an ignition issue.
This may be a blessing in disguise. I don't think that running 2 year old fuel through the system is good for any component we are dealing with here. I would thing the cetane rating of the fuel in the tank would be closer to Kerosene instead of premium grade fuel.
If it were my car..I would ask my tech again if he has a pressurized canister he can hook to his shop air and set it to the specified pressure your vehicle requires. I would probably pull the fuel pump fuse so the old fuel from entering the system.
If it starts..Bob's your Uncle..Pull the left side fender liner and disconnect the fuel filter input and run the pump until all of the old stuff is out of the tank.
Okay, I had misunderstood the mechanic. There is not enough fuel pressure. As far my PATS, I am not getting any light at all- no blinking no solid read, absolutely no red light. What should I check next?
Hiya Dawn,
Welcome back. I was afraid you were going to be another drive-by poster, never heard from again because we didn't have a magical answer to fix everything right away.
Please clarify the comments about "not enough fuel pressure". Does this mean there is at least some pressure? If so, that would indicate the fuel pump is getting a command to run. Whether it puts out the correct pressure is another matter. But if it tries to run, that's a good sign. The problem could be as simple as a bad pump, clogged filter, etc.
Trying to sort out the fuel pump operation is like playing the game of telephone. Your mechanic tells you something, you tell us, we come up with some steps to try, you tell your mechanic, who then tells you, and so on. It's enough to drive a person to drink...
Here's what I'd suggest. At the Shraeder valve on the fuel rail, bleed off any residual pressure. This is like a valve stem on a tire. Just wrap a rag around it, and touch the center with a small screwdriver. This bleeds off any pressure that may have been present. Next, connect a mechanical pressure gauge to this fitting. Turn the engine to Run, but not Start. The pump should run for a couple of seconds to pressurize the fuel rail before start. Record the pressure and get back to us.
If there's no pressure, try again and listen for the pump running. It's located under the back seat. If you can't hear it, remove the bottom seat cushion. There are two latches on the front edge. IIRC, they just slide to the side and then lift up the front edge.
For the inoperative PATS light, that's a strange one. I haven't heard of that before. It's just a little LED, which is usually very reliable. Check fuse #24 in the primary junction box, inside the cabin just outboard of the US front passenger's feet. There's also a relay which controls power to this fuse and a number of other circuits. For a quick check of this relay, turn the key to Run and try your turn signals. Check the turn signals that are right above the low beam headlights. If those turn signals flash, then the relay is operating correctly.
I've been reading up on PATS, but it gets a little confusing. On the early models like yours, Jaguar didn't put out much info. It's almost like they didn't want this info to get into the hands of bad guys. From what I gather, and I may very well be wrong less correct than usual, PATS responded differently for different scenarios. In some cases, it locked out the starter operation. In other cases, it only inhibited the ignition and/or fuel injection. In those cases, the starter would crank away but there's no way the engine would start without fuel or spark. Some of the training manuals aren't exactly clear on how all of this works, so please don't take this as gospel. But if your starter cranks, that's a good sign. The next steps would be to determine if you're getting fuel and spark. Fuel is easier to check, so that's where I'm suggesting your mechanic go.
No no, I am still here and I am not going anywhere! I would be crazy to leave such a wonderful support system.
Re: Troubleshooting No Start
I did everything that you outlined above and also checked fuses and relays which turned out to be okay. The mechanic checked the pressure and sure enough there wasn’t any. We checked the fuel pump and it was not making any sound. Because I had read the threads and watched SEVERAL videos on YouTube, I went ahead and purchased the electric fuel pump (just in case). I did not buy the entire assembly, because again, I’m starting with the small things first and it was only $9.99. After checking the pump with the meter(I am sorry I can’t remember the reading) he said the pump was no good. Side bar:| I hovered over him the entire time because I am really interested in understanding my car, but he’s a really nice And patience and was pretty impressed at what I had learned from you all here THANK YOU. We start taking the fuel pump out and realized that it had Been Jimmy-rigged like in the video I saw. There was a black hose and a fuel filter with zip-ties. He took it apart and took those things off and out it back together how it was supposed to. We installed it and let it sit for a minutes, open and closed the key to engage the pump, and I told him I didn’t here the sound it was supposed to make. After several open close sequences, he tried to start several times and it cranked but no start— Boo-hoo 😢😢. I listened to the pump and told him that I could barely hear the pump actuate, but what I heard mainly was a *whoosh* of sorts that sounded like air blowing through something. He took a listen , and said that it sounded like a bad hose. We took it out again, and sure enough one of the plastic hoses had a crack. So, the other black hose that was now an extra piece, we used as a replacement. We cut it to fit and clamped it, put pump back together and in the car. This time, I turned the key so he could listen, he could hear the pump doing it’s thing and I could even hear it from the drivers seat (that gave me butterflies lol) he gave me the okay to turn the key to start the cart...AND....*drumroll* 🥁🥁🥁🥁...The car started RIGHT UP with zero hesitation! That was the most beautiful feeling ever! Needless to say I was happy.
Now, as we stand there and let it do its thing, there was a lot of smoke coming out of the tail pipes. But, then I noticed smoke coming out from the front engine area, the mechanic at first thought it was oil resize burning off from us attempting to start, but then he noticed that one of the hoses came off. He put it right back on and after a few minutes the smoke cleared from the tail pipes as well. He said he thinks it came off from when we tried to start it with the starter fluid in the first attempt after we installed the pump. (Note I have been saying “we” because I was 100% engaged and assisting). I told him that I remember reading about that happening to another person after changing the fuel pump. So here we are...now to trouble shoot the rest of “The List.”
Edited 12/30/19
Re: PATS
I know what you mean about Jaguar not making this information readily available. It felt like a treasure hunt! I am a pretty earnest and resourceful researcher with an analytical mind. But, just when I thought that I had a new lead and was onto something, I found myself going down a rabbit hole, only to find myself right where I started. Jaguar is definitely mysterious with this info. However, I did speak to 2 separate locksmiths with the capability to program my remote and they both felt that the symptoms of my PATS (no red light at all) along with the symptoms of the car cranking- meant that the PATS/Immobilizer/alarm were not the issue. They butch suggested I trouble shoot fuel pump first and then calling a locksmith. Based on what I had read, I was still thinking to myself, “well maybe it’s the PATS fuse that’s not working or the module that’s fried” But, I put those thoughts aside and went with the most common suggestion- fuel pump. So, now, I can get the remote programmed.😄
Edited 12/30/19
Re: Issues with Rear Lights
So before starting the car, the only warning lights that came up we’re:
• Rear Left Brake Lamp Failure and
• Trunk Ajar
The mechanic had checked the left light fuse and sure enough it was bad, so he handed it to me and I took it in the house to remember to replace it once the car is up and running.
But immediately after changing fuel pump and starting the car the warning regarding the rear light Changed to:
• BothBrake Lamps Failed and now
• Right Tail Lamp Failure
* (Trunk Ajar Warning still Presents)
So, I said okay, I’ll research the fuses first, then light bulbs next and replace them all. But I do not know if I am looking at the correct Diagram, in an official Jaguar S Style Technical Guide. (See attachment). I think I am
Though because my Luggage Compartment Box is not curbed.
In case it matters, the following is the Status’s of Other Lamps (I will need to check them at night to see how bright they are):
Inner Head lamp— working
Outer Head Lamp— working
High beams— working
(forgot to check fog lights)
Front -Left and Right Direction Lamps— working
Side repeater Lamps— working
Front Side Marker Lamps— RT side not working (I took off to replace bulb) LT ok
Left Tail Light— working
Right Tail light— dim
Both break lights not working (i think)
High Mounted Stop Lamp— working
I had my friend help with lights and when he turned the lights on, I initially thought the right tail light was off, but after pressing brakes several times I realized it was on but very dim.
Then, upon pressing the brakes the following happens:
> the dimmed right tail lamp turns off and some lights on the inner corner-closest to the license plate turn on (I think these are the break lamps) I will have to check at night again. I guess I should have done that and waited to post...
I just want to verify that I am using the correct Technical Guide to identify and purchase the correct fuses.
Last edited by IvysMommy; 12-29-2019 at 12:39 PM.
Reason: Accidentally pressed send to soon
Just a point of reference, the electric fuel pumps often fail when the vehicle is left unused for an extended period of time. Should the new pump still fail to start the vehicle, the next step would be to check the inertia switch in the LH front footwell and if that's not tripped, next would be the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP), which tells the PCM the crankshaft is rotating. If the CKP fails, the PCM will not start the fuel pump.
next would be the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP), which tells the PCM the crankshaft is rotating. If the CKP fails, the PCM will not start the fuel pump.
For future reference: If the CKP fails, would this also inhibit the prestart priming action? This info would come in very handy for troubleshooting.
The pump will develop pressure once the ignition switch is in the on position, but if the starter engages and there is no signal from the CKP to indicate the crankshaft is turning, the PCM shuts off the fuel pump.
UPDATE: “No Start” issue resolved. Currently, Troubleshooting Other Symptoms
Hello Everyone Happy New Year! 🎆
I have been sick with this flu bug and had not been able to work on my car or post. But, I am feeling much better and am eager to give you an update, considering that my car is doing some things that were happening before I parked the car.
Please bare with me, I am not trying to be redundant, but I was asked more questions regarding the “no start” issue, so I am officially updating that single specific issue as resolved.
RE: No StartIssue <RESOLVED>
As already mentioned, fuses and relays were good, so after replacing the fuel pump and one of the plastic hoses (on the assembly) that had a crack on it, the car started without hesitation. I have been driving the car around town since then and have not had any issues relating to this Yippee! I still have to troubleshoot the Left Rear Break Lamp Failure and Trunk Ajar warning lights. However, since starting the car and driving around, I have been reminded of some things that were happening right before I parked the car. So, addressing these is taking precedence over the lights...
RE: Remembering Things That Were Happening Before I parked the Car (2 years ago)
I remember that my car was displaying the following symptoms:
• Temperature gauge was going slightly past the normal range
• Leaking coolant from radiator
• Engine fans would turn on while drivingand would stay on for a few minutes after the car was off.
• Rough Idle (due to he following)
• Code P0304 Coil #4 misfire (this was not changed at the time. I parked the car as it was) • Heater Not Working (fans working but no warm air)
[Sidebar:] As I now understand, the normal temperature gauge position (while driving) is a little past the half way point.
At the time, I began to notice that the temp gauge was going up a little past that “normal” point...maybe to the next marker or s little beyond, but it never went into the red zone. When this happened, I was triggered by a memory from college— bare with me. I remembered that my girlfriend’s car would always start to overheat and she would turn on her heater(in the dead heat of summer 112 degrees that year [in the shade] at Chico State in Northern California) and it would bring the temp gauge down. So, the only thing that ended up overheated, parched, and slightly roasted was us. But I digress. So, years later, triggered by that memory- I did the same. I turned my heater on (fan working but not blowing warm air) and it seemed to bring the gauge down on my cat as well. Then, after having parking the car, I would come out and find a leak/puddle on the ground- under where the radiator is. I also had noticed the rough idle and sputter while driving, which I was REALLY familiar with. Approximately 1.5 years before the coil #4 misfire code came up (2 years ago) several coils had misfired and I had changed all 6 of them. But when coil #4 came up, I was not in a position to fix because much I knew it was best to just change them all at once.
[Side bar:] Now, I am finding out that coil misfires are a common nuisance because of the lack of quality coils on the market.
Note: for reasons previously mentioned, I was not able to address these things before I parked the car. So, they are still the same issues that I am hoping to finally fix.
Currently as of 1/15/2020:
The same above symptoms are still present. I have been paying attention and noticed that:
• The fans still come on
• A “slighty” elevated temperature happens after about 20-30 minutes of driving; but car does not overheat. Gauge does not go past the next marker after the half way point.
• Similar leak spot under that car where radiator sits
• Rough idle (due to the coil)
• Code P0304 (Misfire coil #4)
• Heater Still does not blow warm air
I relayed info to my mechanic and he reminded me that we had changed the radiator about 4 months before I parked the car. I can’t remember if there were leaks after we replaced it, but, I do remember that the temperature would still elevate a bit and fans would still come on. Now, he has said he suspects the temperature/fan issue is related to a faulty thermostat.
What I Plan To Do and I Need Your Input
I read a thread regarding misfires/coils on a 2002 S-Type and what I deduced is that...since the Intake Manifold Cover is coming off I might as well also perform the following maintenance:
Replace Thermostat (Brand suggestions?)
Replace all 6 coils (thinking Delphi Brand)
Change all Spark Plugs (NGK Iridium)
Replace both Upper/Lower manifold Gaskets
Replace Valve Cover Gaskets, Inner & Outer, Right & Left
Replace Throttle Body Gasket
Replace Breather Elbow (I Need part #)
Replace Fuel filter
Replace Air filter
Additionally, I should:
- Clean MAF
- Clean Throttle Body
- Use anti-seize compound, dialelectric grease, and silicone lubricant.
Re: Heater
Is it possible that my issue is the Heater Control Valve? And aside from not blowing warm air, is this related to any of my other temp/fan/ issues? Do I need to replace it at this time or is it something that can wait?
PLEASE give me some input, I need to know if I am on the right track.
Thank you so much!
~ Dawn
[Written on my iPhone, please excuse any typos]
Last edited by IvysMommy; 01-15-2020 at 09:33 PM.
Reason: Typos
Currently as of 1/15/2020:
The same above symptoms are still present. I have been paying attention and noticed that:
• The fans still come on
• A “slighty” elevated temperature happens after about 20-30 minutes of driving; but car does not overheat. Gauge does not go past the next marker after the half way point.
• Similar leak spot under that car where radiator sits
• Rough idle (due to the coil)
• Code P0304 (Misfire coil #4)
• Heater Still does not blow warm air
Hi Dawn,
A few thoughts, in no particular order:
Take care of that coolant leak. On my '02 V6, I've had two instances when minor leaks caused erratic heater performance, and the coolant temp climbed above normal. In both cases, all I did was fix the leak and all returned to normal. Just a hunch on my part, but I think coolant flow goes wonky when pressure can't build to normal. Even if my hunch is wrong less correct than usual, you should fix that leak as part of basic troubleshooting, in other words: Fix the known faults first! Use a cooling system pressure tester, the kind that looks like a bicycle pump. It connects in place of the cap on the coolant reservoir. Pump up the system to the value shown on the cap. The pressure should hold for at least 15 minutes or you've got a leak somewhere.
More details on the temperature indication in this thread:
My tale of woe at the following link, when I had both a bad thermostat and a bad temperature sensor. If you need to replace the thermostat, I HIGHLY recommend testing it before installation. If you need to replace the sensor, the last post in that thread has resistance values you should see at certain temperatures:
Basically, when the temperature is in the normal range of 180-230F, the gauge needle stays centered. Typical variations within that normal range are hidden from the driver. If your gauge climbs above center, something isn't right. Start by fixing the leak, then testing the thermostat and temp sensor.
For the lack of heat, after fixing the leak, run the tests given in posts #2 and #6:
Definitely take care of that P0304 misfire. You're in luck, as cylinder #4 is in the middle on the US driver's side, where you don't have that big swoopy intake plenum in the way. Remember, "misfire" in OBD-speak doesn't only mean an ignition problem. It just means low power from that cylinder relative to the others. This could be a dirty injector, low compression, etc. Not trying to scare you, as most misfire codes are caused by a bad coil, just keep other causes in mind if the problem continues.
Before splurging on all new coils, I'd swap that suspect one with another position and see if the fault follows. Also, check for oil in the spark plug wells. This is a very common problem, fixed with new gaskets for the valve covers. I've had that happen twice, and in both cases the coils were fine after spraying with aerosol electronics cleaner. If you don't have time right now to replace the gaskets, just clean up the oil leak and make plans to get the gaskets in the near future. Unless the oil leak is a gusher (not likely, usually just a seep), you can usually buy a month or two until you have time for a permanent repair.
For all of the other repairs you have in mind (MAF sensor, filters, gaskets, etc.), I would offer one big caution. Despite how tempting this may seem, don't do everything at once. Whenever possible, spread out the tasks, with test drives in between. It's VERY easy to induce new faults during any work, whether it's new parts bad from stock, accidentally disturbing an electrical connector, and so on. If you've only changed one or two parts just before the new symptoms appeared, it's easy enough to know where to look. But if you had just worked on a big shopping list of repairs all at once, good luck trying to figure out what happened. I do not care to discuss how I learned this...
Some things obviously should be worked together, such as new intake gaskets while the intake plenum is removed for access to the coils and plugs on the difficult side. But stuff like the fuel filter, MAF sensor and the like? Work those separately whenever possible. It could save you a lot of grief.
So I went out to my car to see if I could get some visibility on where to find the leak and upon closer inspection, I do not think it’s the radiator. The fluid seems to be coming from more towards the center of hw car. Please see attached pictures (they are not very good) but I hope that it can give you some idea...to in tiren give me some guidance— before I start buying parts.
Thank you all!
~ Dawn Wet spot directly under leak source (further back from radiator) more towards center of car and slightly more on the driver’s side. Same picture as #2 just zoomed out
12-19-2019, 07:01 PM
New Member– Trying to Troubleshoot "No Start" 2000 S-Type 3.0 V6
