Ok so I will try and make a long story as short as possible.

I bought this 2001 S-type 3.0 which was making noise sounded like very noise lifters/rockers it did not sound deep (lower end).
After have it towed home it would not start, ( I believe it was driven on the flatbed) anyway everytime I turned the key it would just peg the gauges acted like it was seized or a bad starter.

I let it set for about 2-week (weather) get in it turn the key it runs again, still noisy, but runs. I see coolant at the tailpipe, I open the throttle body and I see signs of Dexcool in there also. So I checked the coolant tank was empty, so I added couple gallons of water and pressure test the system and the tank is empty again.

this time I start the car and start to pour water into the recovery tank and the engine starts quieting down, then comes to an abrupt stop. try and start it nothing the same as before, wont budge & pegs the gauges.

So my next step is to pull the 3 plugs I can get too (drivers) re-pressure test, water disappears but no sigh in those cylinders. (I have a scope at work I will have to bring home to verify)

So I am know ASSUMING the problem is with the passenger side head, either a gasket or catastrophic failure in a cylinder on that side.

I believe the reason it will not and did not start is because of hydro-lock and that while sitting for the two week the water exit the cylinder allowing it to start for a short period before locking again when I filled it with water.

So now I must check the passenger side plugs, it looks like I have to remove the upper intake and throttle body to get to them is that correct?

the reason I ask is I have removed the serpentine belt in order to eliminate the noise coming from any of the pumps.

My only fear is I my have disconnected whatever accessory that my be powering the oil pump?

Any and all support or advise welcome.

I tried to make it short but I had to be informative also

 

Beware of dropping too much money into this! The S-Type is general does not have the greatest resale value, not to mention the pre-2003 models which, on the whole, we're far less reliable than their later cousins.

 

Before you do anything else, download a copy of JTIS and do lots of reading.

 

thanks for the advice I can get a complete 70k mile 3.0 for under a grand, so I cant see getting to hurt if I'm all in a $2k.

Plus I just read that the EMS will shut the cylinders down one by one and them eventually shut down the motor in a case on overheating.

So it could be that what as happened (not having the serpentine belt on) so I will continue on my quest.

Keep the help coming any and all is welcome

 

In your previous thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...uestion-95286/

on the same subject, the recommendation was given to get JTIS and JEPC. I can't imagine why this was ignored given that they're both free downloads nor can I imagine attempting to get deep into an engine without understanding it's basic configuration.

People here are very willing to help but............

 

and I have downloaded them and read them that is were I found that the ems could shut the engine down. So now that you are satisfied I have down loaded them were are your words of wisdom?

 

This suggests that more basic reading is required:

Advice:

If the coolant is disappearing that quickly and is finding it's way into the oil sump, don't start or crank the engine without changing the oil. It may already be too late.

 

thank you but the coolant has not found it way to the crank case I have already checked for that

 

So which is it?

 

well when I check the crank case it was a quart low so I pretty sure it not in there, nor it is discolored or foamy in any way as well as the oil fill caps shows no signs of condensation.

After adding over 3 gallons of water during pressure testing the oil level did not rise either. so I have to assume it is in the cylinder or exhaust, since it is not on the ground.

so if you have any other questions (no answers yet) that you think make you fell smart keep them coming but so far I have not heard any thing from you that has been a help.

thanks again,

 

Drowssap, being bitchy to mikey will not help you find the answers your looking for, he is a very knowledgeable and respected member of the forum and being bitchy will only alienate you.

Looks like it's time to whip the head off and have a look.

 

that was my thought from the beginning, the OP asked if I had to pull the upper intake to get to the other coils and plugs. Not to have someone talk down to me like im some type of fool right out of ITT tech.

police666
thank-you by the way

 

You do need to remove the intake manifold, The thing is, that info is in jtis, so if you had used it....... Just saying

 

I think if that much coolant was getting into the cylindrs you have to get some in the oil? I don't see how you could not? It will seep past the rings and run down the cylinder walls.

Can you pull more plugs? Maybe crank it with them out? Anything blow out the plug holes?
.
.
.

 

Statements like this (3 gallons of water in a 3L (.79 gallon engine) as well as the others above make it difficult to offer a way forward.

Exactly.

 

I have already pulled the 3 plugs on the driver side, did not see of hear anything entering those cylinders.

The car will not crank once again, which is way I believe the problem is on the passenger side and the intake will have to come off.

the fact that I could not get pressure to build but it took so much water as I gave it leads me to believe its either in a cylinder or in the exhaust.

I'm guess I will find a blow out head gasket or catastrophic failure on the passenger side.

I would think if I had over three gallons of water in the oil even for a short time it would be nice and milky.

 

"Statements like this (3 gallons of water in a 3L (.79 gallon engine) as well as the others above make it difficult to offer a way forward."

then buy all mean move on to someone you can help then.

 

clubairth1,

That is my plan now that I know I have to pull the intake, I will pull the other plugs and scope that side. I'm pretty sure I will find my water or traces of it on that side.

Thanks

 

In the interests of not seeing a possibly salvageable engine damaged even more, please don't attempt to start it or even turn it over. Proceed straight to cylinder head removal.

My guess is that the previous owner allowed the engine to run low on coolant, it then overheated and warped a head.

The oil pump is not driven by an accessory (as illustrated clearly in JTIS) but conventionally like almost all other engines. I'm not that familiar with the 3.0 V6, but am not aware of an "EMS" that shuts down cylinders in response to an overheat. Can you point me to this info please?

 

"you really should download a copy of JTIS and do lots of reading"


Fail Safe Cooling System



A unique feature of the V6 engine is the use of a fail safe cooling strategy, controlled by the EMS, in the

event of coolant loss leading to rising engine temperatures. The principle of the strategy involves

switching off one or more fuel injectors to inhibit combustion and reduce heat, thus allowing the flow of

ambient intake air to further cool the selected cylinders. By cycling the selected cylinders, ie switching

different injectors off for a period and in a sequence determined by EMS parameters, overall engine

temperature can be controlled sufficiently to allow the vehicle to be driven, at reduced power, for a

short distance. Throughout the malfunction period, instrument panel messages and warnings advise the

driver of the current status of the cooling system as described below.


Driver Indication and EMS Action



The fail safe strategy moves though different stages depending on engine temperature:

¥ Temperatures below 122û C (250û F) are within the normal range. At high temperatures below this

level the temperature gauge pointer enters the red zone.

¥ If the temperature rises to between 122û C - 127û C (250û F to 260û F) no action is taken by the EMS

which affects engine running but the following indications appear:

Temperature gauge pointer in red zone

Message Centre HIGH ENGINE TEMPERATURE

Warning light TEMP

Priority light red

Audible indicator single chime sounded

¥ If the temperature rises to 127û C (260û F) or above, the fail safe strategy operates. At 127û C (260û F),

the EMS will cut out one cylinder (the selected cylinder is varied) and as the temperature continues

to rise, this will increase to a maximum of three cylinders cut (with cylinder cycling). The following

indications are given:

Temperature gauge pointer in red zone

Message Centre ENGINE POWER REDUCED

Warning light TEMP

Priority light red

Audible indicator three chimes sounded

¥ At 166û C (300û F) or above, the fail safe strategy continues as described but the following

indications are given:

Temperature gauge pointer in red zone

Message Centre PULL OFF ROAD SAFELY alternates with TURN OFF IGNITION

Warning light TEMP flashes

Priority light red

Audible indicator five chimes sounded

¥ EMS shuts the engine down.