That's why I like this forum, you learn something new every day.

But what I suspect really happens is engine overheats, damage gets done, needle then goes to red, then cylinders shut down. Lol.

 

let try a show and tell, new to site and posting pix sorry if I wait your space.

pix 1 is drip stick over filled with oil not water
pix 2 throttle body
pix 3 throttle body under pressure
pix 4 upper intake draining
pix 5 lower intake

 

has anyone had the vehicle go into Fail Safe Cooling System mode? and is there some way it has to be reset before the engine will start again?

 

Thanks for that. It appears that the system might not be applicable to the V8 engine- or my copy of JTIS is lacking.

 

One of the problems with the jag is the temp gauge is not a true representation of temperature, the can be massive variations in temp and the needle will stay in the middle, it was designed thus way as focus groups showed temp needle movement worried the average driver.

Another problem is the temp gauge sensor is at the top of the engine so if you lose enough coolant the is not enough to transfer the heat to the sensor and you have a cooked engine before you know it, the is a low coolant warning but again, this sometimes gets ignored or doesn't work correctly.

In short I suspect by the time cylinders start getting shut down the damage has already been done

 

pretty much the same as a LR's temp gauge "useless" they either read cold or melt down anything in between is normal.

I do another question for any body or there on picture #3 that coolant is actually pouring down from the top of the throttle body, the coolant appear to be running into the plunum from the recovery bottle vent?

 

I think you're right and the description also infers that the car can only be driven a short distance with all sorts of dire warnings flashing in the driver's face.

Sort of an academic exercise in the OP's case, the engine obviously has some serious damage given the pictures.

 

it appear that is how the system work, but if your under the hood pressure testing, it hard to see those lights.

But even with the all spark plugs out it will not bump over? which makes no sense.
I am rethinking the hydro-lock? I'm starting to think it shut off on fail safe cooling mode, because when it stopped, it just stopped didn't cough or fart just stopped running.
I believe the motor was filled with water from pressure testing after as I said earlier when pressure testing water just pours out top the top of the throttle body heater from what appears to be the cooling reservoir return line.
ideas?

 

With no plugs in can't be hydro lock, I'd go for flat battery or pats system locking you out, also without the throttle body on it might not turn over as the jag does all sorts of electronic checks prior to turning over.

Check with other more knowledgeable than me but it my be possible to jump the stater to get it to turn over.

 

I have no idea why you're still trying to turn it over. This risks making things worse.

Either take it apart to find out what's gone wrong or just swap the engine for the spare you've found.

 

it has to be some system control locking it out, the battery in a few months old and I had charged set at a 200amp start mode and I still got nothing.

I am guess that once it goes into safe mode, you must have to reset something.
But I don't see anything in the manual about resetting the ems, perhaps the use the vehicle arm/antitheft system to shut it down?

I be dumb once again what does pats system stand for?

 

Mikey,

"Either take it apart to find out what's gone wrong or just swap the engine for the spare you've found."

And what if I do swap the motor out, it still does not explain why water is pour from the top of the throttle body or why it wont crank.

I think I would want to find the problem before I take the time swap the motor, also as you said it probably already hurt and I don't see what damage can be done cranking it with no plugs or intake.

but thanks

 

That's why you need to take it apart. You're going in circles with it right now.

 

thanks but until I can figure out how coolant can pour into the top of the plenum while being pressure tested, and why it will not crank I will keep going in circles.

 

There is apparently a leak path from the cooling system into one or more combustion chambers. If an intake valve is open, any fluid pushed into the cylinder will flow back out the intake.

 

I believe you are misunderstanding me the water did not come back up the plenum. it rain straight down from the top of the intake.

I stuck my finger in the hole it was backing up from the recovery tank. in the 2nd picture it is the hose on top to the right.

I know in the pix it look like it is on the floor of the intake it isn't, it hard to pump and take a pix at the same time.

I "believe" hydro lock was never a problem. I think all that water got in there while pressure testing after it cut out on safe mode.

Don't forget I my first post I said I was running it without a belt to eliminate any of the accessory pumps as a cause of the noise.
.
So no belt, no water pump, engine acts like a heat sink and goes high enough to trip safe mode.

 

It will probably not crank as you have removed the throttle body, I might be wrong but I'm sure I read somewhere the throttle body and gas pedal have to have the same reading.

Another thing to check is the pats, check the red light on the dash and count the flashes

 

I think it looks at the CHTs and sees it overheating so shuts down cylinders.
V6 petrol, only.
Has to be chancey as to whether it prevents damage.

Only thing needing a reset could be inertia switch. Not the PCM (aka ECM, it's not really EMS but hey no-one sticks to standards).

 

but it was doing the same thing before I removed the TB, but the TB did have water in it?

Don't get me wrong I'm not saying that this car does not need a head gasket or more, what I am saying is I believe I drowned the engine in water pressure testing after it cut out.

The not cranking is the part that gets me, that was my original thought on the hydro-lock, but I do not believe that is that case any longer.

I wonder if it was running long enough to store and codes?

I will check the light on the dash tonight and get back,

Thanks for letting me bounce ideas around

 

Jagv8,

would it not still crank if it were the inertia switch?

when it stopped it did just that stopped did not starve for fuel, did not make noise, just lights out.