Hi,
Any midlands members on the forum?

I've had the S type for 4 days now and love it already.
I've got some work I intend to do on it ASAP:

Oil and filter change.
Cabin air filter change.
Fit metal lockable valve caps.
Fit xenon headlights and sidelight bulbs.
Fit a pair of aero flat blade windscreen wiper blades. (They look infinitely better and work much better than standard blades)
Replacing the remote key fob batteries or the whole key fob if necessary.
Properly detail cleaning the wheels.
Clean the windows inside and out which are quite dirty. I have used Autoglym Fastglass for years and I find it does an excellent job.

Although the car has only done 58k miles (checked on dvla website), the written service history only goes up to 42k miles. So I'll be having a check out of the vehicle done by a local mobile mechanic.

 

 

Wouldn't bother with lockable valve caps.

Forget Xenons! Mega-legal trouble. Just use a bit higher output bulbs.

Get OBD tool and heck fuel trims.

Plan to replace coolant hoses.

 

The valve caps are missing on this so Ive got to get a set.
The kids nick em and collect them.
With regs to the xenons I've never had any problems on my previous motor, but I went for ultra bright white rather than blue coloured. The bill arent too bothered around here with minor technical stuff on bikes or cars. I've had a roadside check on the car with xenons and nothing was said.

Thanks for the advice ! Much appreciated.
I've got the 2.5 V6 SE 2002

 

Replace the coolant hoses because of the age yeah?

 

You'll regret Xenons. They need new lenses, module, powerwash, self level. It's a nightmare to fit even the bulbs. Brighter normal bulbs you can fit in minutes.

All the hoses will be ready to fail.

Service the gearbox.

 

Keep reading! There are a number of things to do. But replace ALL the lug nuts NOW!

Has the DCCV been changed yet?
Yes plan on changing all coolant hoses.

Check the plastic defroster panel up by the windshield. They are brittle and crack badly at this age. Big source of rattles.

Have you checked for codes yet?
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I know what you mean now.
I should have made it more clear that I am only buying the xenon bulbs not the full headlight kits.
The headlight blub types I've noted down as: H7, HB3 and W5W
I have the 55W ultra bright white lights on my previous car.
I wouldn't change the wattage for the new car either, I'll stick with 55w.

Coolant hoses sound a good idea, can you get silicone kits for these?

Thank you for your input.

 

Thank you for the info.
Could you please expand a little on the above items for a newb to Jaguar like me?

 

A couple more photos of the car, it's quite clean.

 

Very nice example! The advice here on this Forum will help you keep it that way.

 

Thanks very much.
Thats what I am hoping. I prefer doing my own work but somethings I have to pay others to do. But I dont want to "mess" with this car too much, just subtle and useful improvements.
I had thought about changing the grille, but the grille on it suits it.
I think the popular addition of stainless mesh is a bit of an overkill.
Thats just my take.

 

Save your money on cosmetics, and address the functional components of the car first. These cars can be expensive to repair. And familiarize yourself with the forum's SEARCH feature, as it can be an in valuable source of solutions to problems and answers to questions you have. Nice looking car. Good luck with it!

 

Well I'm a big boy now and I decide what to spend my money on. I've had quite a few expensive cars over the years and I know how to fix them myself or know someone who can.

I've already fixed both key fobs which weren't working and Iocated all the bulb types to order xenon bulbs which are much brighter than standard because I've used them for years on other cars.

The gearbox service seems split 50/50 online as to whether it's worth it or pointless. So I'm not convinced yet but will research it further.

I've priced up new front and rear drilled and slotted discs and pads which I will fit myself. Both sets on the car look like originals and the fronts look well worn.

 

This means that 50% of the comments you've read are misguided.

 

Possibly.
It would be prudent to do it anyway.
I don't think its worth droppng the sump though.
I've just read online that the same ZF gearbox was in my E60 BMW 545. No problems with that gearbox in 55,000 miles.
Only gearbox computer problems

 

The S-type gearbox problems start to surface at the 70-90K mile range it seems.

 

This box isnt 100% best, but its a typical autobox.
It slightly lurches when engaging drive and reverese in slow speed manouvers
and its not a smoth gear change between I'm not sure if its 4th and 5th or 5th and 6th. Nothing major and to me these are normal autogearbox behavior. I've never had an auto box that worked perfectly.
I've had a Granada Cosworth, Granada Scorpio, a couple of Senny 3 litres and a few BMWs. Of all of them I would say the GM autobox's were the best.
I don't rush autogearboxes, I make nice slow movements of the lever and you can adapt your driving style to allow for some of the vagaries.

I assume the choice of ATF is critical on these?

 

Sure can. Search for DCCV as we have several hundred threads on it. Very common but not too bad to fix. Don't delay as the DCCV can burn up the climate control module if not fixed.

Completely foolish statement! It is MANDATORY to change the transmission fluid. Only the factory can claim it's lifetime filled.

As was posted above we have found it's best to service the transmission (which includes a new pan) somewhere around the 70K mark. You mentioned the "Lurch". Have you been to the website and read how to identify the different versions of the lurch? Well worth the read even though the guy went off the deep end BUT he did buy the car new and paid full price! Not like us cheap skates that purchased them used at a great price!

Jaguar S-Type Ownership Experience - The ZF LURCH Fault

Do you know the pan is integrated with the filter? Read about the fluids as we do have some non factory fluids that have been working fine. I use Lifeguard 6 but only because it has come down to around $19/Liter. Still expensive but you probably will only change the fluid once during your ownership. Takes about 6-7 liters when you swap the pan and filter assembly. Do you know about the sealing sleeve problem? This is also likely leaking and should be replaced when you have dropped the pan/filter. Good thing is it's only about $15 just don't forget or you will be dropping the pan again!

Couple of things I don't see you mention? The transmission cooler lines will weep at the connection between the steel tubing and the rubber hose. This can lead to low fluid level and all kinds of strange actions. So be 100% sure you have the correct fluid level before doing anything. Get under the car and inspect these now. They are probably weeping already.

Search for different solutions as it can fixed very cheaply DIY or massively expensive at the dealer if you replace the entire hose assembly. Be aware the cooling lines can't be removed/replaced in one piece with the engine/transmission if place. The factory assembled it that way.

Again do you know how to check the fluid level? It's not easy but a home guy can do it if you are motivated. Just remember that it must be checked properly! No short cuts. The car must be level and in the air and you must measure the transmission fluid temperature while the car is running. You will slightly over fill and then let the excess run out before putting the fill plug back in.

So I would recommend getting the free manuals we have here on the forum. They are called the JTIS and the JEPC. These are really key to understanding and fixing your car. As you know the only way a used Jaguar will work out is if you can DIY most of the repairs/service.

I don't see where you have changed the lug nuts yet? These will be bad. Don't delay as people have been stuck along the road with a rim they can't remove. Then you will need to cut the lug nut off with possible rim damage.
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+1 on servicing the gearbox promptly and use the correct fluid for any topping up or drain and refill.

It is always a good idea to ensure the filler plug can be removed PRIOR to draining the fluid and removing the sump.