I am sure after the rebuild, that the tops of the selenoid covers filled up again , at least somewhat since i have warmth leaving the dccv, limiting great flow through them.

 

I have an extra DCCV in the box my shop. This is another link on A/C Temp control

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I have not aquired any extra parts yet. The a/c write might help me in the spring when i recharge the a/c. I will blow out temp sensor tomorrow. I see your from around Md. I was born in baltimore.

 

Gus's quasi address, he's in the Witness Protection Program.... LOL! Just kidding Will, but really, he is.

 

I have ways around that, my families Italian, hint hint. lol.

 

So I am about to order the dccv for my s type. Ii had to drive it 70 miles this afternoon to pick kids up from school. 7/8 of trip is highway speeds. The car heated up to about 220 pretty quick and the fan kicked in before i even left for the round trip. It pretty much kicks the fan on at about 220 and more. So during the trip i would notice the fan kicking in everytime i would slow down or stop. I would drop to neutral and try to keep rmps up to keep fluid flowing and cool it down, fan would stop. So that was the norm for the whole trip. I had no heat at all. When I go to the middle of the trip , about 35 miles, I park to wait for kids to come out of school. The fan kicked on full blast as soon as I parked and the temp continued to rise, I gave it rpms to about 1500-2000 for next 5 min and I go heat up to 90 as long as I kept the rpms up it stayed that high. If i let it idle, it would very slowly cool back to 60's and fan would kick in. I then continued to keep rpms up because that seemed to cool motor, heat in cabin was secondary at this point , but needed for when the kids got in car for trip home.

So basically its overheating, top radiator hose seemed to have alot of pressure. I cracked bleeder up front on engine and had plenty of pressure and fluid. So, i am not sure whats up, but i cant afford to replace every darn parn in this system till i find the problem. I already replaced resevoir and upper radiator assembly and the thermostat. I flushed the whole system and replaced fluid with new, dextron mixed 50/50.

I know I shouldnt have correct heat if dccv isnt working right...I can deal with that until it arrives this week, but why is the car overheating? Is my waterpump shot? or is the dccv inhibiting engine flow? Like i said i cracked the bleeder on front of engine and it has fluid, I also have bleed the heater core bleeder too, it flows hot fluid, so it doesnt seem to be an air issue, the tank was at its levels, cold , when i first started it....

btw, I have Torque Pro obd2 on my android htc evo 4g, so I monitor through elm27 bluetooth interface, all specs of car, and sensors. This is where I monitor the temperature because the dash one always warmed to half way, then stays there. I know 220-230 deg F is not the center of our temp guages so therefore there is a problem with that also.

 

Did you mention swapping in a thermostat? Either this or water pump are the likely culprit for overheating.

 

With critical parts such as the thermostat, it is always best to stay with an OEM part whenever possible. It is entirely possible the new aftermarket thermostat is either not functioning correctly or is installed in the wrong direction.

 

I put it back in the way it came out, besides its stupid proof, it wont go in the housing backwards, so the housing would have to be backwards too. I guess I will take the thermostat out tomorow and run it to see if flow is restored...will that work as a test for flow?

 

It will work for viewing the flow of the system, but the engine will find it difficult to reach normal operating temperature if the ambient air temperature is very cold.

 

I just want to get it going for the 4 hours of dropping and picking kids up tomorrow without damaging the motor with an overheat. Then if the flow is fine, I will purchase oem thermostat.

So when i bring the rpms up to cool the motor like I was, it that making the 'bad' thermostat open somewhat? How do you think the rpm load is helping the situation? I even get heat while doing this? but when I stop it stays pretty hot between 210-234F is the highest reading I got on the obd2. So it doesnt keep going to hotter and hotter, just has a hot range I guess.

 

I do not know how to answer your question because if the thermostat is only partially opening, you may get the higher readings.

The higher rpms will cause the water pump to spin faster and increase flow. Most newer vehicles are designed with cooling systems that work with flow rate rather than volume, thus the smaller radiators.

 

Raising the rpm causing heat is likely a function of more coolant passing through a partially opening thermostat.

 

that would make alot of sense to me because I opened up my dccv and cleaned it out, lubed and left naturally open when I installed [did not hook up electrical connector].

I thought for sure that the flow would then return through the heater core for now.

If what your saying is correct, the heater core is fine, the bad dccv that I left open, could still be open,at least some, but the thermostat is hindering volume or flow to proceed through the system.... UNTIL i put alot of rpm on, which creates more flow with the water pump, then it pushes some fluid through the core, enough to heat in park, but not enough flow to resist the constant cooling of the lines under the hood [wind while driving, ambient temp now is 40F] to the firewall from the dccv.


Ok, then my water pump is probably alright, because when i hammer on rpms it creates the pressure necessary to fight against the partially open thermostat, dccv is shot, and the thermostat I bought at autozone is a piece of crap, not working.

I will start with the removal of the thermostat tommorow and bleed system to see if that resistance or partially open thermostat is gone and noticeable. I should see no high temps and it should run at a normal level. What temperature should be a normal temp for these cars? The dash temp seems to only go to half way and has never warned me of a high temp. Luckily I have been watching it with a obd2 device.

 

The temperature gauge should be at smack middle when fully warmed and stay this position when hot. Temperature should remain steady at 200 degrees +- 10 degrees. jaguar runs these motors hot. It maintains thermal efficiency and keeps oils with contaminates emulsified.

 

Hmm. I had a DCCV failure recently, and the only effect of it was to kill the cabin heater. I did notice that the car reached operating temperature noticeably quicker with the heater out of action, which I put down to the great heat-sink of my cold morning carcass being effectively out of the loop! But the temperature gauge in these cars isn't there to tell you what the actual engine temperature is - it's there to tell you that everything is absolutely fine by scooting up to the middle of the dial and staying there. In reality the actual temperature will vary between about 200-220F depending on conditions and the temp gauge needle will never budge. This is completely normal - modern engines run quite hot because of efficiency, emissions and so forth.

Now, when everything is not fine, i.e. when you have a cooling system malfunction of some sort, the temp gauge needle will indicate that things are no longer fine by starting to move towards the red zone. I had a cooling fan module failure a couple of years ago, and because I am in the habit of keeping an eye on the temp gauge I spotted this and took action in time. In the six years I've been driving this car, that is the only time I have seen that needle move. At all.

 

Minor point but I think that should be ... Hogmanay ...

 

Egad, Blackadder - you're right! Baaah!!

 

Willburn, if your not in close proximity of a new thermostat, you can remove the present thermostat and run this till you procure a thermostat. This wil also test wether the thermostat is a culprit for overheating. Let's play a game while we wait for the thermostat swap. Can U say "thermostat 3X fast? Yeah! that's what I'm talking about. Sounds like a motor on its last leg? LOL!

 

Yes, it was the thermostat. I removed it and now it runs at 196-206 for the 20 min idle, and then 15 min cruise at highway speeds about the same. I did notice, the aftermarket thermostat I purchased is rated at the OE 192deg F. There is an alternate temp thermostat that is rated at 180deg F....should I be using this one? I live in wisconsin, we have pretty cold winters, and all four seasons, which includes hot summer.

With the issues I was having, was it the highly rated thermostat, or was it actually just a bad thermostat? It has a 1 yr warranty to I will return for cash or the 180deg one. Waiting for recomendation. The store is on my way out of town today.