03 STR Wont Star, no crank, just dasboard lights on...
Hi everyone I cant get my car (2003 S Type R) to start. It was working all fine, until trying to fix the only wrong thing with the car then (AC blowing hot on one side).
So I had the key in the ingnition on the "off" position, and unpluged the Fuses from all 3 fuse boxes that I thought would reset the selenoids for the AC vents that aren't working on the right side of the dashboard (stock opend on hot). But now the car is not cranking at all! For the first couple of tries I got beeping sounds from the dasboard when turning the key, but that went away (doesn’t hapend anymore), I read to make sure the shifter was on the P position. I tried to unplug the battery and go through all the ing/starter/fuel fuses and nothing yet... I only have one key and I cant tell if it is the key or not??? How could I tell?
Please help me!!!
Thanks,

 

I hope I'm not offending you but did you just buy this 03 STR?...I'm wondering why you're not sure about the key being correct? If the preceeding is moot and all the fuses are bridged by filaments (not blown), the relays returned to their correct positions, and the battery fully charged with both terminals snug, then what may have happened is your STR was thrown into a security lock-down condition. Don't worry, someone here will help you out of this.

 

Bfsgross, thank for your response, and please, there is no offence taken on my side. Yes I just bought this STR, beautiful car and I’m in love with it. It was working great (minus the AC problem). But like I said, now I can’t get it to start, and I’m very frustrated... The Gauges needles go all the way (left to right) when I turn the key on. I tried to disconnect the battery for 10 mins and see if that would reset it, but nothing...

I need to get back on the road. Please everyone/anyone...

 

Usually the gauges reset when the battery volts seen by the instrument cluster are too low. Which almost always means a failing battery. Or a poorly charged one or bad connection that won't deliver current properly. Bad battery is easily and by far the most likely. In case you have it tested it needs to be tested properly not by someone doing it crudely - they'll say it's OK when it isn't

 

If you still have the orginal Jaguar battery chunk it and get a new one, battery life spans are < 5Yrs The car is already 7 yrs old.

 

That depends on how well the battery has been cared for. Even so-called maintenance-free batteries need proper care (no such animal as maintenance-free ANYTHING)....

If the cells are kept full, if the terminals and attaching hardware are kept burnished, clean, and tight, and if the alternator is working properly. battery lifespan increases considerably. The $40 Walmart battery with a 2-year replacement warranty in my 1999 Dodge Ram pickup just turned 8 years old. The factory battery in my wife's 2004 Lexus RX330 is still going strong. So is the factory battery in our 2005 S-Type. Take care of your battery and it will take care of you. Check those cells often (especially during the hot-weather months) and add water as needed....

 

Three points make a trend; Battery.

My 2003 STR did exactly the same thing back in December last year - the gauge needles swinging full range, no beeps etc... At the time I was able to do a battery swap from my 2001 S-Type to confirm and ended up replacing with a new battery.

On a side note, do you have the 4 digit security PIN code so that you can get the Navi etc. working again?

 

I just tried to jump start the car and nothing... I didnt think it was the battery to begin with, because the car had started fine 5 mins before I did the fuse checking. Well, can anyone tell me how to get the car runing??

JG

 

If you had the key in the ignition when pulling fuses then the car was part powered. Maybe that's the clue. Fried electronics?

Can't say I'd trust the "tried to jump start" line of argument but it's your car.

Sounds like you need a competent jag tech at this point.

 

Go back over everything you touched and re-check ignition, etc. fuses. Then as ridiculous as this may read: Remotely lock then open the doors. This simple maneuver may re-set security lock-down.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by bfsgross

Go back over everything you touched and re-check ignition, etc. fuses. Then as ridiculous as this may read: Remotely lock then open the doors. This simple maneuver may re-set security lock-down.

I just finished doing this; every one of the fuses was right and in working condition. I don’t have a working remote key; I guess it needs a new battery. I can only opened/close manually. Which I’ve also tried couple times.

I did have the key in the ignition (on the "off" position), but either way it was in and maybe some “circuits were on”, and as I recalled the one fuse I touched last was the F27 on the engine compartment, and it has to do with the "Starter Solenoid" I took it out and then put my fingers on the contacts to make sure they were strait. Then put it back on and try to start the car and nothing…

I've also checked the switch by the driver's kick panel and it was fine, but I reset it anyways.

JG

 

The battery could have gotten run down while you were fiddling with the A/C relays. Determine the age of the battery. Though you tried to jump start her; put the battery on a charge at 10 amp/hr for the night. Check that both terminals are very tight and be sure the negative terminal is tightly grounded to the chassis (bolts to chassis left of negative terminal). Put a fresh battery in the remote keyless entry then try to lock then open the doors. Let us know what happens. Private message BRUTAL (certified Jag tech) with your debacle...stat!

 

I read somewhere that the there is a light on the dashboard that will either blink or stay solid while the the key is turning the car on, to let you know the key is or not programed. But I just cant find such light.

1. Perhaps the only light that seems to be doing any blinking is the the "P" on the J gate shifter whenever I put the key in the ignition and turn it. Does this says anything?
   
   BTW Im taking the car battery to the local autoparts to get tested... I've heard so many stories, and I just want my car back on the road!
2. I did try to buy a new battery for the key, but they tested it at the store and it was fine, which means the key apparently has not being programed yet. But it was working fine until now..
3. 
   Could it be that the car went into immobilizer key mode?

JG

 

"Immobiler mode"? I made referrence to you in an earlier post that you may have inadvertently put her in security lock-down mode. Private message "BRUTAL" (certified jaguar tech.) for an expert who will help you retrace your steps and set you on your way.

 

Well, like many of you said it, the battery was weak, just got it back from the local autoparts store and even after a full charge cycle it tested weak (680A and only showed 368A and 12.37V)... Go figure, and yes it was the original white Jag battery. Now let’s hope this will get it going.

Estrange that it was bad, because the car did start 5 mins before it stopped working...

Now the biggest problem I’m facing is getting the trunk open. Apparently the wind here in South Florida has picked up enough to close my trunk while I was gone... And there is no way to get in the trunk without a battery in the car...

**Can I removed the seats from the inside and work my way in? I’ve tried to open the arm rest and it has a huge fabric bag attached to it... So taking the seats out might be the only way in. Does anyone have a better idea??**

 

If your battery leads are in the clear in the trunk (not touching ground or each other) you can back feed from under the hood with another battery and open it that way. Or use the key in the trunk lid!

 

I got in the trunk, yes there is small opening on the trunk for the key. The "NEW" battery is in, but nothing happend... It still wont start. I turned the key and the gauges needles go all the way up and nothing, but like 10 beeping sounds come from the dasboard... Maybe the new battery is weak too? But it should at least crank the car on. Its new!

 

I did sent him a PM about 3 mins ago. I'll hope and pray that he will answer soon!

Thanks again!
JG

 

This sounds very much like the PATS has been activated. This is the factory anti-theft system. If you don't have it yet please buy the JTIS on EBay for about $10. Best money you will ever spend!!

The PATS has a red light in the center of the dashboard up against the windshield. What is the red light doing?? When the car is off and when you insert the key and when you attempt to start the car? Any rapid flashing of the PATS light is saying the system is not happy and will not allow you to start the car.
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.
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The PATS light stays ON solid while the key is turning. When the key gets to the max point the light goes "OFF".

Okay I've finally got down to a good **"CLUE"**. I got more news. I pulled the Relay R20 from the engine "Fuse Box". This is the "Starter Motor Solenoid" and with a tester light I found out that I only get the tester light to come "on" when it touched the 86 port when I turn the key all the way "on", but nothing on the 30 port, either with or without key "on".

I see there is current always going through the 86 and 30 ports of all the rest of the relays in the box.

I did a "hard reset" took the two battery cables off and held them together for about 10mins, but obviously it didn’t help.

Now the question, I guess I could bypass the relay (I just don’t know to?)
Could it be that the current is being interrupted because of the Security syst? Or maybe somewhere somehow there is a problem?

Maybe now we have it down to just one wire...

JG