No Start Issue Periodically
#1
No Start Issue Periodically
Hi all, I have a 2006 S Type with a 3.0 engine, left hand drive N.A. I am at the end of my rope with this issue, so any help would save my sanity. This is where I'm currently at. I can start the car with no issues say 20 times, then out of the blue I get in, turn the key and noting happens, meaning all the dash lights come on, but will not fire the spark plugs or coils. I have changed out the battery, I then did hook up a scanner which said B1600 codes (PATS System) it is my understanding that there a few things to the Pats system namely. The key has a chip in it which needs to talk to the ignition cylinder with immobilizer and then go through the instrument cluster, which in turn tells the PCM to start the car. So far, I have had the dealer change out the complete key and reprogram it, still happens, then the dealer changed out the ignition cylinder and immobilizer, still kept happening, then the dealer changed out the instrument panel and reprogrammed that. They swore that this should do it. Nope still happens, it always resets itself sometimes after 2 mins, sometimes after 15 mins, the most it has taken is 30 minuets to reset, then starts fine. The only thing I haven't change or repaired is the PCM. Thank goodness the dealer has not charged me one dime to do all this, as they are baffled and felt that they did not find the fault so why charge me. Phew!!!. Any ideas from your side would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Try using your other key (for weeks if needs be) and see if it also does it.
If you don't have one:
1. someone else has it!!!!
2. get one before you really regret not having one when something happens to the one you do have
BOTH need to be programmed in the same session. That will then wipe the missing one (if one is missing).
If you don't have one:
1. someone else has it!!!!
2. get one before you really regret not having one when something happens to the one you do have
BOTH need to be programmed in the same session. That will then wipe the missing one (if one is missing).
#4
#5
JagV8, thanks again. Is the transceiver part of the key cylinder/immobilizer? if so that was completely replaced and programed, or a separate module? also what is a SCLM?. The one thing that I keep going back to is that when it will not start, something resets itself. Sometimes quickly, sometimes not so quickly (15 minuets). Then it starts. Now when it will not start, there are no codes showing up. That's why this is driving me crazy.
#7
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#8
#10
The nearest I've had is if I turned the key _immediately_ after inserting it into the ignition. But it then worked fine after a short time (seconds, not minutes). I took it as a sign of module initialisation / immo not being complete.
Yours sounds different and I think I'm out of ideas other than perhaps to study the elec. guide very closely in the hope of spotting something.
Yours sounds different and I think I'm out of ideas other than perhaps to study the elec. guide very closely in the hope of spotting something.
#11
#12
Mike, John, Gus . . . greetings from down under.
You have a real brain twister Mike . . . specific, but intermittent symptoms that I think, with no less frustration, I have seen only once previously and that followed some unrelated work behind the dash.
First up though, let me ask a really basic question to help test the relevance to your dilemma - please describe in accurate detail exactly what does and does not happen when you move the ignition key from the "on" to "start" position during one of these "no start" episodes -
You may be lucky and find that the unclip, clean, smear with proper electrical contact lubricant, and re-connect securely . . . will fix the issue. It was just so on the MY07 car cited above . . . and pointed to in Gus' post.
Best wishes,
Ken
You have a real brain twister Mike . . . specific, but intermittent symptoms that I think, with no less frustration, I have seen only once previously and that followed some unrelated work behind the dash.
First up though, let me ask a really basic question to help test the relevance to your dilemma - please describe in accurate detail exactly what does and does not happen when you move the ignition key from the "on" to "start" position during one of these "no start" episodes -
- do the warning lights lit in the "on" position remain lit or extinguish as you turn key to "start"?
- as you turn key to "start", does the engine crank, but not fire up? or does the engine not crank at all?
- have you done, or had done, any work around or behind the IC/dash area that might co-incide with the onset?
You may be lucky and find that the unclip, clean, smear with proper electrical contact lubricant, and re-connect securely . . . will fix the issue. It was just so on the MY07 car cited above . . . and pointed to in Gus' post.
Best wishes,
Ken
Last edited by cat_as_trophy; 11-19-2016 at 04:09 PM.
#13
Forgive me if this sounds completely out of left field, but it almost sounds like an intermittent or misadjusted neutral safety switch. I'd be interested to hear more details in response to Ken's questions in post #12.
For giggles when the car is behaving, try shifting out of P or N and observe the warning lights, etc. when you turn the key to Start. See if the symptoms are the same.
And next time the car acts up, look at the position indicator lights on the J-gate. P or N must be illuminated before the starter can be engaged. The indicator lights are driven by the internals of the transmission, not the shift lever position. If the P or N aren't illuminated when the car is misbehaving, try playing with the shift lever and see if that helps.
A long shot for sure, but it might match your symptoms.
For giggles when the car is behaving, try shifting out of P or N and observe the warning lights, etc. when you turn the key to Start. See if the symptoms are the same.
And next time the car acts up, look at the position indicator lights on the J-gate. P or N must be illuminated before the starter can be engaged. The indicator lights are driven by the internals of the transmission, not the shift lever position. If the P or N aren't illuminated when the car is misbehaving, try playing with the shift lever and see if that helps.
A long shot for sure, but it might match your symptoms.
#15
Good call Karl . . . to which we should add to your general theme . . . check the 2 retention bolts that locate and fix the shift cable to the auto trans. These bolts are known to cause shift issues if loose and some have been known to fall out entirely. If the correct shift positioning becomes problematic, then this may affect the positions at which the synchronized gear selection and P/N safety interlock each operate correctly, along the lines that Karl has pointed out.
While there is still a need for accurate answers to questions in post #12, Karl's advice to check this area, is relatively simple to do . . . and certainly recommended IF the engine is not cranking at all.
Best wishes,
Ken
While there is still a need for accurate answers to questions in post #12, Karl's advice to check this area, is relatively simple to do . . . and certainly recommended IF the engine is not cranking at all.
Best wishes,
Ken
Last edited by cat_as_trophy; 11-19-2016 at 09:41 PM.
#17
Hi,
I had exactly the same problem, stumped me for ages!! I checked everything from park position sensors, PATS, battery, starter motor, ignition circuit... I also had no codes, nothing to assist.
The solution (for me anyway) was to replace both relays R3 and R20 at the same time. (Replacing either independently did not solve the problem.) I also cleaned the connectors within the fuse box which were are now shiny.
I still do get the occasional (once or twice in the last 6+ months) hesitation, but if the engine does not turn over immediately on turning the key, holding it in the start position for less that a second longer and the car will start perfectly.
Hope this helps...
Donna
I had exactly the same problem, stumped me for ages!! I checked everything from park position sensors, PATS, battery, starter motor, ignition circuit... I also had no codes, nothing to assist.
The solution (for me anyway) was to replace both relays R3 and R20 at the same time. (Replacing either independently did not solve the problem.) I also cleaned the connectors within the fuse box which were are now shiny.
I still do get the occasional (once or twice in the last 6+ months) hesitation, but if the engine does not turn over immediately on turning the key, holding it in the start position for less that a second longer and the car will start perfectly.
Hope this helps...
Donna
#18
#19
S type 1999 30L
Hi all have a similar problem.Car would cut out about 3 miles from home in the same area, dash lights on...would not start..wair 5-9 minutes and would start and be ok all day. Then would not start when leaving to the shop, around 700 yards away..wait a while and presto, it starts!! Started to not start when stopped and car is parked outside local shop now, walked home due to no starting. Sometime it seems like its on a timer!!! All lights on dash ok, tried both keys but now wont start so its a recovery!! Any ideas will help, have checked all cables for security and no dampness, no engine light showing..Help!!