Nuts fused to studs - cannot unbolt cat converter
#1
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I've been trying to unbolt my passenger side (clogged) catalytic converter for about 3 evenings and made absolutely no progress. There are 2 studs in the flange with two 15mm nuts viewing from the bottom. I had soaked the threads in PB Blaster overnight three times, won't budge. Tried using propane torch on the nut, still doesn't move a bit.
I've got my breaker bar on it and I'm using so much torque already that the stud will either snap or more likely the nut will round off.
Questions:
Thanks!
I've got my breaker bar on it and I'm using so much torque already that the stud will either snap or more likely the nut will round off.
Questions:
- Any other tips for removing the nuts other than PB Blaster and propane? Will MAPP gas help?
- If the stud breaks, how difficult will it be to remove from the manifold?
Thanks!
#3
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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#4
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X2. At least you stoped before snaping them off. An oxy acetyene torch works wonders in cases like this.....as long as nothing catches fire!
#5
#6
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Yeah, the oxy torch used by an expert is scary & amazing. Had a cat changed on my previous car and watched with interest. I think it's such a vast amount of very localised heat that it snaps all the rust bonds.
It wasn't too expensive to get the work done and it's beyond what I can do - or want to do.
It wasn't too expensive to get the work done and it's beyond what I can do - or want to do.
#7
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What everyone already said.
P.S. Focus the heat on the nut, not the stud. The heat expands the metal allowing you to break the galvanic corrosion bonding them together. It also weakens the temper allowing you to break any burrs that may have seized them together as well. Like Brutal said, when you take the heat away you should see it glowing faint red.
P.S. Focus the heat on the nut, not the stud. The heat expands the metal allowing you to break the galvanic corrosion bonding them together. It also weakens the temper allowing you to break any burrs that may have seized them together as well. Like Brutal said, when you take the heat away you should see it glowing faint red.
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#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah, the oxy torch used by an expert is scary & amazing. Had a cat changed on my previous car and watched with interest. I think it's such a vast amount of very localised heat that it snaps all the rust bonds.
It wasn't too expensive to get the work done and it's beyond what I can do - or want to do.
It wasn't too expensive to get the work done and it's beyond what I can do - or want to do.
Cheers,
#13
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There is nothing wrong with PROPANE but the addition of OXYGEN is what is needed.
I use acetylene for welding and some cutting but OXY/PROPANE will braze and solder. It will also heat ALMOST as well as acetylene. I have an old propane tank that I interchange with my acetylene regulator (they have the SAME left hand threads) because propane is a little cheaper than acetylene.
OXY/PROPANE is useless for welding but it heats well for less money if getting something hot is all you need.
Just a thought.
bob gauff
I use acetylene for welding and some cutting but OXY/PROPANE will braze and solder. It will also heat ALMOST as well as acetylene. I have an old propane tank that I interchange with my acetylene regulator (they have the SAME left hand threads) because propane is a little cheaper than acetylene.
OXY/PROPANE is useless for welding but it heats well for less money if getting something hot is all you need.
Just a thought.
bob gauff
#14
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Anyone who's never had oxy (etc) cylinders and is thinking of getting them - please research carefully about safety issues (what you must and must not do). Especially oxygen has issues which go well beyond the obvious.
I know mechanics appear to treat these things casually but looks can be deceptive.
I know mechanics appear to treat these things casually but looks can be deceptive.
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