So fellows, today I changed the oil and filter. When the time came to unscrew the filter, the male portion came out with the filter. I had a T55 torx socket that fit the hex shaped female inside the "stud" itself (sorry the pic doesn't show the hex). A 10mm allen wrench fits but is loose, my guess it would be a 12mm allen wrench. Just thought I would share.





BTW, I used Castrol 5w/30, what Jaguar called for!

 

OMG, you neutered your Jag!

 

kinda'

 

Ahahahahaha

 

Very strange. And somewhat disconcerting. No oil filter should ever be able to grab tight enough to unscrew its threaded shaft attachment. Did you use a cap-style oil filter wrench or just a plain old spanner oil filter wrench?

I thought you used Purolator filters like me, Rick. There's your problem! Stick with Purolator and it won't happen again!

I see your new Escalade in the background. Very, very nice....

 

Yes, that happens occasionally. Just screw it back in and seat it, no harm, no foul.

Ford uses different threaded inserts with stepped shoulders to adapt different filter types on different models. I changed one, one time on an X-Type where I bypassed the coolant insert and used a much larger filter can (held a full quart).

 

Actually Jon I hand tighten, and hand untighten. Yes I never had that happen before, so next time you guys change oil check it out.

The $9.00 filter was free with purchase of the Castrol oil.

Thank you for the compliment, I didn't really notice the station wagon until I posted the pic.

Oh and guess what started to drip again, the dreaded ZF, no tranny fluid on the ground yet but the electrical connector is wet again.

 

Yikes!! Keep us posted on your ZF situation. If you decide to take the plunge and go after it at some point, I'm curious as to what fluid you will select. But I'll keep my fingers crossed that the leak will heal up again for you....

 

I just reread ccc's thread (again like the 69th time) and something dawned on me. I PM'd him to see if the sleave could be replaced without having to drop the tranny pan/filter which in my mind would save a considerable amount of new tranny oil. I haven't seen him out here for awhile so I hope he will reply. If someone else knows the answer to the above question, I am ALL eyes.

 

If I remember correctly, that leaking O-ring sleeve must be removed and replaced from inside the transmission pan. Thus, the fluid must be drained and the pan has to come off....

 

This was taken directly from cccs thread, as I read it I don't think the pan has to be removed.

#6 Replace connector sleeve. This parts seems to be prone to leaking and should be replaced proactively. The three dealers around my house stock them but only 1 had it in stock. They get a few of these in each day. Disconnect the cable connector buy twisting and pull out (there is another wire that goes to some other connector that should be removed so you can move the harness out of the way. See photo but there is a white release slide, push in the release pin and pull down. Reach the sleeve from the outside and pull out. Lube up the seals on the new one and slide in. May have to rotate it around a bit but when you get it lined up, it should slide in with a pretty snug fit. When is in, push up the white disconnect until it clicks. Connect the connector and rotate until it clicks and reconnect the other connector on the harness

 

no you dont drop the tranny pan to change the sleeve

 

AH HA!!!! thank you Brutal. Would you recommend purchasing just 1 qt of the same ZF fluid to replace as I think we would loose a bit of fluid?

Does one have to go through all the drive selections and warm up to put new fluid back that was lost?

 

you could, but I have never lost enough to worry about when changing. I just have the new sleeve ready, take out the old(I believe its a 7mm stud that youll take loose to remove the outer sleeve the connector fits into) Sleeve. When you take out the sleeve youll get(Maybe 1/4 cup out) thats nothing to worry about) And do it cold, youll get alot less fluid out and wont burn your tender hands and put the new one in. pay attention to locating over the electrical pins correctly, the connector should only go in 1 WAY.

 

This is one situation where I'm glad I was wrong....

Wonder how much ZF fluid you lose when you pull that leaking sleeve out? I guess it all depends on how fast you can get the new sleeve lined up and correctly snapped into place....

Brutal, what's your guess on how much ZF fluid the average do-it-yourself guy might lose doing this job lying on his back underneath the transmission?


Update:

Thanks for beating me to the punch, Brutal. I appreciate your quick response....

 

This is TERRIFIC news!!!!!
Again THANK YOU Brutal!!!!!

 

I don't agree with this if it is a 6hp26 - There is a locking collar that grabs the sleeve from the inside of the casing. The tab, that locks/unlocks the sleeve is only accessible when the pan is removed.

You can remove the twist lock cable connector harness, but you won't get the actual sleeve out w/o unlocking the tab.

 

UTTT OHHHH
short lived celebration maybe............

 

So who's right and who's wrong?

 

Dude...To just go back to the original post for a moment...

Rick...Couldn't you think of a better title than that??? God only knows what was running through my head when I read..."oil chainge, male end came out"!

I thought it was going to be another "bed liner" thread!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...threadid=18595