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Old 04-05-2011, 08:18 PM
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Default Oil pan leak

Hey guys Just woundering if any body has had success replacing an oil pan gasket leak on the 3.0 . It looks like there is enough clearance to get it down but wanted to check before doing it. I also wanted to see if I would find a loose or bad rod bearing since I'm hearing this ticking noise that I talked about in a previouse thread because it is mostly heard underneath the car. Any body replaced there oil pan gasket without lifting up the engine? Please post pics if you hav any.
 
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:25 PM
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Rick (Joyce'sJag) is your man...I think....

B'lieve you do have to lift the engine a mite, though...maybe?

aha! Finally found it...Rick posts too much! Tried searching "oil pan gasket" w/o joy, then went to "Threads started by Joyce'sJag" and finally on page 3....here you go, David

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...il-leak-11520/
 

Last edited by aholbro1; 04-05-2011 at 08:39 PM. Reason: went on search foray....
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:25 AM
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You can always lower the subframe. I replaced 2 oil pan gaskets (1 on a 2003, and on our 2005 3.0 both S Types).

I had not done either one this way.
 
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:40 AM
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David if you don't have JTIS or alldata, I strongly suggest that you do.

JTIS is available through ebay, about $10.00

or

Here is a link for www.alldata.com that gives a discount code for a years subscribtion: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...19-95-a-52237/

I have been using alldata for years and and it hasn't failed me yet.
 

Last edited by joycesjag; 04-06-2011 at 06:19 AM.
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Old 04-06-2011, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
David if you don't have JTIS or alldata, I strongly suggest that you do.

JTIS is available through ebay, about $10.00

or

Here is a link for www.alldata.com that gives a discount code for a years subscribtion: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...19-95-a-52237/

I have been using alldata for years and and it hasn't failed me yet.
Hey rick yes I do have JTIS but it's a little hard to make out what I see in the pics they provide. Pretty much I wanted to find out if there is a way around replacing the oil pan gasket rather than having to do it the way JTIS says. So you have done it your self? Do you have any pics? Thanks.
 
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:17 PM
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JTIS states to lower the sub frame correct? I do not have any pictures for that procedure.

I do have pics of leaving the subframe intact and raising the engine from above (if that makes sense).
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:54 PM
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For what it's worth, the mongilian 600ft/lb snap-on intimidator impact wrench attached to an industrial compressor at my brothers shop had a heck of a time breaking loose the subframe bolts, and at one point I thought I was going to snap the head off of one..

If I were to do it again I would advise not loosening / lowering the subframe unless you were in a situation where you absolutely had to, regardless if you had a lift available. It's much easier to pull the bolts out of the motor mounts and raise the motor especially if you have a cherry picker.

I'd go the way Rick has... And raise the motor, especially if you where doing it at home.

First, pull the cowl cover and the bar that goes across the two strut towers (see rick's imt o ring short route post for details)

Release the serpentine belt and remove the belt from the a/c comp and alternator pulleys. Now is a good time to swap the belt for additional piece of mind if you haven't done it yet.

Then it's time to go underneath the car.

Basically u need to remove the two bolts on each side that hold the a/c compressor and the alternator. Then pull the motor mount bolts. Raise the motor with either a block of wood and a floor jack on the oil pan, or use the cherry picker. If you don't have a cherry picker you need to get one of those steel bridges that goes across the fenders to support the motor in the elevated position.

Then remove the 2 bolts that attach the steering rack to the subframe. Lower the steering rack.

After that remove the rest of the pan down and forward. The oil pickup tube is almost at the bottom of of the oil pan so realize you have to get the pan that low to be able to slide it out. Scrape both gasket mating surfaces. You need a couple dabs of permatex or other gasket maker as well, once you place the new gasket on the pan it will make sense where. The gasket is a compression / crush type that will compress as you torque up the pan. Loosely hand tighten everything before final torquing.

Assembly is the reverse of removal. Attach steering rack back to subframe, lower motor and bolt in motor mounts. Replace a/c compressor and alternator, reinstall serp belt, replace bar and reinstall cowl, and don't forget to fill it with oil!!!

I'm sure I missed something but that should give you the general idea. Rick, feel free to correct me or add to this.


Take care,

George
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 08:55 PM
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That pretty much sums it up George (in about 20 seconds of read time) , to bad the oil pan gasket job will take a first timer about 5 hours on his back.

the only correction needed are a couple of bolts:

4 on AC compressor, 2 easy access 2 not so easy
3 on the Alt pretty straight forward
3 on the rack

David if you wish for me to post pictures of this procedure, I can do that. Some are a bit vague though. To replace the oil pan gasket you will definetly need JTIS or alldata. For a years subscribtion to alldatadiy its only $20.00 something like $45.00 for 5 year subscribtion.

BTW the first gasket replace I tried lowering the sub frame, but as George said those 4 bolts are in there REALLY tight. I managed to loosen 3 out of the 4, thats when I had to change gears and go through the lifting engine procedure.
 
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:35 PM
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Lol I always forget something .... thats why I knew you would fill in the blanks. I remember the two long bolts on each side with the alt and the ac compressor.

As far as JTIS, don't pay for someone to copy a CD and mail it to you on ebay. There are "alternative" ways of getting it. PM me if you get my drift.

Take care,

George
 
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
That pretty much sums it up George (in about 20 seconds of read time) , to bad the oil pan gasket job will take a first timer about 5 hours on his back.

the only correction needed are a couple of bolts:

4 on AC compressor, 2 easy access 2 not so easy
3 on the Alt pretty straight forward
3 on the rack

David if you wish for me to post pictures of this procedure, I can do that. Some are a bit vague though. To replace the oil pan gasket you will definetly need JTIS or alldata. For a years subscribtion to alldatadiy its only $20.00 something like $45.00 for 5 year subscribtion.

BTW the first gasket replace I tried lowering the sub frame, but as George said those 4 bolts are in there REALLY tight. I managed to loosen 3 out of the 4, thats when I had to change gears and go through the lifting engine procedure.
Thanks for the info guys I guess I'll just do it by lifting the engine. but go ahead and upload the photos from the oil pan gasket fix so I can get a visual Idea. By the way should I worry about the transmission? It is connected tothe back of the engine. Just want to make sure I won't brake any thing back there. Also They sell oil pan gaskets for the jag at autozone should I get one of these or should I just use permatex gasket maker? Thanks guys.
 
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidRey
Thanks for the info guys I guess I'll just do it by lifting the engine. but go ahead and upload the photos from the oil pan gasket fix so I can get a visual Idea. By the way should I worry about the transmission? It is connected tothe back of the engine. Just want to make sure I won't brake any thing back there. Also They sell oil pan gaskets for the jag at autozone should I get one of these or should I just use permatex gasket maker? Thanks guys.
David, I will up load the photos for you, I just have to find them all.

I hope you realise, that it is an indepth procedure. Make sure you have the correct tools and MIND SET for this, it will take you about 5 hours maybe 7.

PLEASE don't go into it as a PIA job. It really isn't, its just time consuming and kinda fun.

BTW Auto Zone gasket will be just fine, actually it would be a FelPro gasket that they sell you. <--THANK YOU GEORGE for the heads up.
 

Last edited by joycesjag; 04-10-2011 at 09:48 PM. Reason: BTW
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Old 04-11-2011, 06:25 AM
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Rick, if you find oil pan gasket changes fun, you are more than welcome to come over and do the annual oil pan gasket job on my Rover. Unless "fun" is now a curse word.....

Your method is definitely the way to go, dropping the subframe is indeed a major PITA.
 
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:27 AM
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To bad I still do not live in Cleveland Chris, I would make the trip over and you could hand me the tools! I am still hoping an STR guy brings his PITA supercharger hose problem to me.

I find wrenching very therapeutic and fun. I look at "mechanical situations" more fun than a PITA, makes the job go easier! BTW if a job has multiple procedures, I start at the hardest part and work my way to the easiest. Most people I know start at the easiest and work towards the hardest part making the job all uphill.

I also leave a couple marshmellows in the bowl of cereal for the last (and best) bite! huh?
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:25 AM
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:48 AM
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Thanks for uploading the photos rick, How do I go about attaching the engine hoist to the engine with out the bracket that is stated in JTIS? I see you have used chains, where are they attached to or is it wrapped around the engine?. Thanks again pics are very helpful.
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:40 PM
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Damn ya'll would never make money in a shop
only remove the 2 lower ac compressor bolts, remove both lower alt bolts, and "almost" remove the upper so the alt is free to pivot and move. Dont need to remove the cowl or cross brace either. The car has to be up high enough to drop and turn the pan to drop away from the oil pump pickup too
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
Damn ya'll would never make money in a shop
only remove the 2 lower ac compressor bolts, remove both lower alt bolts, and "almost" remove the upper so the alt is free to pivot and move. Dont need to remove the cowl or cross brace either. The car has to be up high enough to drop and turn the pan to drop away from the oil pump pickup too
Wait so if you get the car up high enough on the lift, with the alt pivoted, AND the A/C compressor big bolts removed, Are you can get the pan out by dropping it and turning it? Without touching the steering rack OR raising the motor / undoing the motor mounts?

Do you think you could accomplish this on ramps at home or no? Which way would the pan have to turn?

Take care,

George
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
Damn ya'll would never make money in a shop
only remove the 2 lower ac compressor bolts, remove both lower alt bolts, and "almost" remove the upper so the alt is free to pivot and move. Dont need to remove the cowl or cross brace either. The car has to be up high enough to drop and turn the pan to drop away from the oil pump pickup too
Brutal I am going to quote this in the 3.0 Oil Pan Removal thread,

Again I am just a DIY'er. Having the AC and Alt off and tied up gives more "wiggle room" when you are on your back with 18" between garage floor and bottom of vehicle. Only adds a few more minutes to completely remove and hang.

I left the cross bar on when I did Joyces car. There is room when engine is jacked up but, its really tight especially when putting the oil pan back in place. For Joels vehicle, I removed the crossbar and had enough room for your hands, Georges and a buddies!!! Again a few more minutes aids the DIY'er.

Incidently I did not remove the the wiring from the ALT or AC and AC lines.
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by androulakis
Wait so if you get the car up high enough on the lift, with the alt pivoted, AND the A/C compressor big bolts removed, Are you can get the pan out by dropping it and turning it? Without touching the steering rack OR raising the motor / undoing the motor mounts?

Do you think you could accomplish this on ramps at home or no? Which way would the pan have to turn?

Take care,

George
damn Geaorge your always reading stuff not writen I said you dont have to remove the cross bar, the alternator or the cpmressor. I never said you dont have to drop the rack or jack up the engine. I know you were hoping for a tech tidbit that would save you half the time still dont know why you would worry about the cross bar, since the only reason you need the hood open is to refill the oil. The trans and exhaust will hit before the engine hits the cross bar. And yes maybe only a couple minutes to remove. thats is unless the bolts are so badly rusted then they snap off. and then you drilling and tapping
 
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Brutal
damn Geaorge your always reading stuff not writen I said you dont have to remove the cross bar, the alternator or the cpmressor. I never said you dont have to drop the rack or jack up the engine. I know you were hoping for a tech tidbit that would save you half the time still dont know why you would worry about the cross bar, since the only reason you need the hood open is to refill the oil. The trans and exhaust will hit before the engine hits the cross bar. And yes maybe only a couple minutes to remove. thats is unless the bolts are so badly rusted then they snap off. and then you drilling and tapping
LOL of course I was, especially after your declaration that "we would never make $$ in a shop"

I worried about the crossbar because Rick did it first, and I guess he felt that it had to come out, so I didn't question him. So this saves us the steps of completely removing the alt and A/C compressor.

AS an aside where would you jack up the motor from from underneath? (Since we don't need to open the hood except to refil the oil )

Take care and thanks!

George
 


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