So immediately after I picked up my 09 XF-SC from having the supercharger cooling lines replaced, it threw a P0401 EGR insufficient flow code in the engine. Took it to the dealer to have it fixed under warranty but it's specifically stated that the EGR valve is not covered. Spent $450 for them to check it out to no avail. The EGR valve is not running it's self test even though it's operating properly. They were able to get it so the check engine light doesn't come back on but they assured me it would return immediately.

To make matters worse they told me the only way to guarantee this getting fixed was to DROP THE ENGINE to repair the EGR valve and check for any other vacuum leaks. This is going to cost ~$2300.

WTF???!?!?!?!?!?!!!???!?!??!

 

Not sure why they want to drop the engine? We recently found out that it is possible to replace the EGR valve without removing the blower but so far only one guy has done it to my knowledge.

It sure is suspicious that they worked in that area and now you have a problem?? Any chance you can go back? I think I would have turned around when the light went off since you just drove off the lot?? But it was after hours and you probably needed to use the car too.

I wonder if they got everything hooked back up? If the EGR electrical plug was left off or not seated all the way you would get these codes.
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I think all blower removals have to be preceded by the EGR removal, right?

 

Atem-o,

I assume you're dealing with Leith Jaguar in Cary. I know from personal experience that the two master techs at Flow Jaguar in Greensboro (Nhao and Georgiy) blow every tech at Leith away in experience, knowledge, skill, thinking-outside-the-box repair efforts, and customer relations. I live about 25 miles from Leith. I live about 80 miles from Flow. On the very rare occasions when I need dealer service assistance, I drive to Flow. Period....

 

Hi man, did you find the solution for that. I'm thinking of purchasing a used stype r which has a coolant leak under supercharger. Could you let me know how much did it cost you to repair the leak.

Thank you

 

Bull27 has not posted since July 2012, so I doubt that he will respond.

Also, I notice that this is your first post. When you get a chance, please go to the New Members section and post the expected brief "intro". It is always good form to say hello prior to attempting to pick our brains...

New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

This is a well known problem and we have dozens if not hundreds of posts on this. Please do some searching as there are repair threads with pictures and parts list. Yes the shop will most likely hand the car back to you with additional problems UNLESS they have done this repair before.

It's a complicated and time consuming repair. This hose itself is only around $25 or so but there are a number of gaskets that should be changed when doing this and that is where the cost comes from. You should also think about changing all the coolant hoses as these SC cars have about 23 separate hoses and they are all possible leak points. My 2005 STR was a great car but I will say this was the hardest repair I did and without this list to back me up I don't think I could have done it. I had to go in a second time and fix a vacuum leak I caused because by this time any hard plastic you touch will break. I broke the plastic vacuum fitting under the SC elbow for the PB.

The second time I removed the SC it was MUCH faster but I really did not want to become an expert on that repair!

But the big question for you is can you DIY the repairs? Otherwise it will be an expensive used car to own.
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Yes, there is not just one single possible reason as to why there could be a coolant leak. And the repair (if you can not do it yourself) is likely to be very expensive. I am currently fixing this on my S-Type V6 2004. When I am finished I will write an extensive report in a new thread. Here only a few bullet-points: 1.) Seals on water outlet and water inlet (both made of metal), which you can access only after removing intake and fuel injection unit. 2.) Corroded-thru "unnamed" "cover plate" of the water-pump, which is near impossible to order anywhere. 3.) Damaged seals in radiator top hose (XR827648) - and those seals can officially not be ordered, only complete expensive hose assembly. And all those leaks are extremely hard to detect. The previous owner apparently gave up on finding them and his "solution" of adding a second hose clamp next to any existing hose clamp just did not fix the issues as he would have hoped... Cheers, Peter

 

I wasn't sure where to put the update to my 2005 STR project but this looks as good a place as any. I was referred to a local Jaguar tech who used to work for Jaguar NA here in NJ and he has a clean, new one man shop about 40 minutes from me.
He came out on 6/23/2023 to look at the car in my driveway where it's been parked for 4+ years with a very good cover on it. He said it didn't look too bad and I had all of the parts labeled. So then the parts hunt began. We had a few hiccups with a wrong or missed hose or two but now we're on the final stretch. I've driven the car and it drives well. Along with every hose and gasket on the intake tract we've also replaced:

• The DCCV again out of caution.
• The mechanical water pump.
• Thermostat.
• The heater pump
• Not the intercooler pump
• The EGR valve and all of those gaskets.
• Spark plugs
• Cleaned the fuel injectors and replaced the screens and O-rings
• Two oxygen sensors oh the RH bank.
• The map sensor because it was cracked and leaking.
• Had the almost new brake rotors very lightly tuned to remove the rust.
• Flushed the brake fluid.
• Put the smaller upper SC pulley on.
• Drained 15 gallons of old gas from the car.
• All new filters including cabin, engine air, fuel, oil
• Fresh engine oil - Mobile 1.
• Valve cover gaskets, they were about to fail.

I'm sure that there were other things I just can't remember right now. I think we were pretty thorough.
He also showed me videos of the inside of heads with covers off as he was priming the oiling system before initial startup. He said it was the cleanest engine he'd ever seen, zero sludge, varnish or stains and that all the valve train looked like it had 5K miles on it instead of the almost 70K it has. So that was good news

So now he cannot seem to get the EVAP test to run and clear the IM readiness flags. That's the last thing that's needed to pass state emissions testing. He's going go for a longer drive today and take the car home tonight.

 

excellent. Bob. Excellent. Told you it was not ready for the junker. Way to have faith

 

Thanks, though it wasn't inexpensive and still isn't totally fixed until that code clears all by itself. By the time everything is done with tires, paint repairs and headliner fixed I'll have way more into the car than it's worth.
Then I can work on the rear suspension links, probable new shocks soon and balancing that driveshaft! That shaft might be the simplest and cheapest repair of all the repairs.
My wife wanted to keep and fix the car and it is about $50k less than the Maserati I was looking at, better looking but that one was 12K miles and came with a 6YR unlimited miles warranty plus 590HP!

Me? I think we should have both! LOL

 

Good job and much progress has been made!
Report back if your able to find any CATS struts too. They were MIA several years ago and Bilstein rebuilding services did not seem to cover the CATS version of the struts either.
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Hey it's only money ... I'm not doing the work.

Looks like Moog makes a heavy duty looking rear sway bar links with zerk grease fittings. I think those have to be tightened with a load on the wheels and not hanging in the air. That might be tough to do in my driveway.
There's a bit of a leak on the tops of the front shocks. No adverse effects as yet. Is it Bilstein who manufactured them for Jaguar? If so then Jaguar might have an exclusive right to repairing/selling them.

Is this what we're all looking for? https://www.shockwarehouse.com/searc...Model%2FS-Type

 

Good find on all those struts. Hard to say as I don't know if the CATS struts from the STR are the same as the CATS struts for the non-STR's?
Last time it was posted that they are different but note the listing has "Base" in all the listings? The green color does match OEM so maybe they are for the STR too? $1200+ for a set of four is a decent price.
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Here in the so called golden state of CA you can pass a smog check with the evap pending as the only one left to set. Double check that for your state. I can hardly believe any other state would be tougher than CA. I just did it today on my 2000 silverado. Evap not set but passed

 

What is the hose I.D. in inches?

 

Yes it's that way here as well. He got it to clear itself though and then sped to the closest inspection station so that the car is now 100% legally registered and inspected.

I picked it up yesterday but things got very complicated in the last two days.
My wife tested positive for covid and was pretty sick the last two days. I'm fine. But that made picking the car up complicated. I didn't want to expose him so we both wore masks which marginal prevents me from spewing virus if at all though I don't think I am anyway. For him the masks have been proven worthless for years already, yet the insanity persists. So we kept mostly 30-50 feet apart. I think he'll be fine.
He didn't end up flushing the brakes because his test of the brake fluid in the reservoir showed that it had 0 % moisture and the brakes were flawless so I saved a bit of money there.

THe 45 minute drive home was smooth other than the obviously flat spotted tires.

However as I got close to my house on b roads where I was closely following other cars I began to smell what seemed like oil burning. Sometimes that's a car ahead of you but when I got to my driveway and opened the hood the smell was definitely there. My mechanic thinks it might be the nut loosener he used on some of those SOB bolts. Perhaps ... I didn't investigate further as there were no obvious oil leaks and there was another more pressing issue ... the engine rattles at idle badly.

This pretty much ruined the joy at getting the car back. You cannot hear it from inside the car but something is not right. Perhaps a dropped bolt somewhere? But it did sort of sound like it was coming from the SC.
I can't return with the car to his shop until this covid crap has cleared our household. We both had the weak omicron variant 2 years ago and this a variant of that.

So it stays in the driveway AGAIN and then it gets flatbeded Again to see what's up.

The ICs & SC got cleaned, new oil as well as a solid coupler to replace the spring type which ironically can make this noise when they are worn out.

 

The solid coupler makes the charger way louder. I bet that is what you are hearing. The gear noise. Datsports has a good write up on it when he did his. I did mine and hated the noise so when i had to do some other work i went back to the spring one

 

If I can find my old one I could measure it but know this ... it has a different ID and OD on each end. There's a coupler in between and it's the short larger size short straight piece that fails. That got replaced with piece of HD silicone hose on the new hose.
Finding the hose is the least of your problems. Just buy one and replace the small piece as I suggested. There are a lot of other issues to deal with while you're doing this repair and this is the time to do it.
I'm not out of the woods just yet. Figure 5-6K and even so I'm not sure the garage is making any money.

 

I'll try to find that. Thanks.The whine IS more pronounced but at idle it sounds terrible. I'll try and record it and possibly post the video here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...6/#post1619670

Well if I'd known this before hand I think I'd have gone with the original. BTW that's a very similar explanation I got from my mechanic yesterday.
I must say it does sound groady as hell and at resale I doubt this explanation would fly.

Again thanks for the link.