I've searched for these codes and seen the individual replies, but I have all of these together and am wondering if I can eliminate any of the alternative solutions because the issue seems to be engine wide.
I'm assuming that because it is both banks I can eliminate Cats, exhaust gaskets and probably inlet gaskets - unless I have a compound failure of both items at the same time.
Am I correct therefore in assuming it is in the input air or fuel system?
I've had new plugs, coils and Rocket gaskets done recently and no indication of MAP problems - 2003 4.2 base car has 111000Km on it.
The throttle body seems to be a culprit, but what goes wrong with it?
AE report is attached.
Any ideas welcome before I tear out the rest of my hair and head for an expensive Jag dealer here in Toronto.

 

One thing you could do is to read the various important-to-OBD sensors from cold engine (engine off but be sure your battery will stand this) and check they're all plausible. Then start engine and check they change gradually, staying plausible. Which sensors are in JTIS if you spend an age looking or clues to the sensors are visually here OnBoardDiagnostics.com - Engine Basics

Check what you can manage, quit then unless you find a problem.

You should not have P1000 without knowing why - have you cleared the codes and/or disconnected the battery?

Needn't be TB surely it could be the MAF? Tried cleaning it?

Checked for air leaks - especially after the MAF?

Using an OE (& clean) air filter?

I'd be in no hurry to suspect let alone blame the TB.

BTW, not wise to clean the TB unless you've first found out what NOT to do with a very high-tech jag one.

 

Thanks JagV8.
I bit the bullet and took it to a dealers. Turns out the clamp holding the large air pipe to the throttle body was not doing its job and it was sucking air where it shouldn't.
They did however reset all the trims etc. and more than this updated the ECM and TCM which had not been updated for at least 5 years!
No Rest Perf so far and it feels soooo much smoother with the reset trims and updated computers.
It is extremely worthwhile spending the hours dealer IDS time just to update the computers. Should be done annually or at least every 2 years.

 

Good news! I hope it was a fair price. I wouldn't quite agree about the updates in that there may be no more (as the cars are out of production and anyway most faults seem well-known by now). That said, the dealer can easily find out from IDS whether any update is available (IDS pretty much demands it be done if so, I understand, but otherwise is simply content to leave it alone).