P0171 and P0174
#182
P0171
Thanks for the reply JagV8,. It has been a while since my last post. My mistake. It was a lean condition (p0171).
I believe cleaning MAF sensor and tightening vacuum hoses resolved the problem and since then I have driven it about 600 miles with no engine fault.
The only code the scanner reads is P1000; Comprehensive status monitor not ready. All other monitors are ready.
I believe cleaning MAF sensor and tightening vacuum hoses resolved the problem and since then I have driven it about 600 miles with no engine fault.
The only code the scanner reads is P1000; Comprehensive status monitor not ready. All other monitors are ready.
#184
yes they are , that's why the 1646/1647 codes will read injector motor failure which indicates sensor failure and this band sensor can replace the ecu in manipulating fuel trim. Oxygen sensors determine how long the injector nozzles will remain open during a spraying of fuel into the engine. This is always decided by how much air the sensor senses.The narrow band will be what I described up top which reacts from current instead of the pump probe of the wide band. And let me say another thing, the oxygen sensors job is to sense oxygen only, NOT FUEL! This is the sole purpose of its existence, as the sensor sees the oxygen content low, it can command the injectors to remove fuel as a byproduct reaction based on air, not fuel....The narrow band will decrease, or increase voltage due to air ratio....the ecu responds to this voltage change and to compensate it commands the injectors to add fuel..It is like a back up for unmetered air..say you have air entering the engine from areas that the maf, and map sensor arent seeing....such as a leaking valve cover, or say a lower plenum gasket leak, the maf sensor sees air entering from air cleaner box, but not the plenum, or the valve cover leak.....but the oxygen sensors will catch this extra air exiting and now you have a fuel trim issue...Another example is say you have a dirty air filter the maf sees shows low air entering the engine below 14.6-1 ratio, this info can result in the injectors taking away fuel because of low oxygen being metered into the engine. Hope this makes sense..
Last edited by 912guy; 07-22-2015 at 07:44 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Jumpin' Jag Flash (07-22-2015)
#185
#186
my friend what I am simply saying is that if you use professional diagnostic equipment when you run across these codes that say injector motor failure, it is a upstream oxygen sensor issue. Why? because the 02 sensor drive the injectors pulse...to the untrained eye they will have no clue what these codes are pertaining to...I do this for a living, and if you ever see this which I hope not then I am just explaining to you what it will mean...
#187
#188
Thx, 912guy! This stuff is fascinating. I'm trying to practice what a good mechanic once said: "Stop buying parts... and start thinking."
yes they are , that's why the 1646/1647 codes will read injector motor failure which indicates sensor failure and this band sensor can replace the ecu in manipulating fuel trim. Oxygen sensors determine how long the injector nozzles will remain open during a spraying of fuel into the engine. This is always decided by how much air the sensor senses.The narrow band will be what I described up top which reacts from current instead of the pump probe of the wide band. And let me say another thing, the oxygen sensors job is to sense oxygen only, NOT FUEL! This is the sole purpose of its existence, as the sensor sees the oxygen content low, it can command the injectors to remove fuel as a byproduct reaction based on air, not fuel....The narrow band will decrease, or increase voltage due to air ratio....the ecu responds to this voltage change and to compensate it commands the injectors to add fuel..It is like a back up for unmetered air..say you have air entering the engine from areas that the maf, and map sensor arent seeing....such as a leaking valve cover, or say a lower plenum gasket leak, the maf sensor sees air entering from air cleaner box, but not the plenum, or the valve cover leak.....but the oxygen sensors will catch this extra air exiting and now you have a fuel trim issue...Another example is say you have a dirty air filter the maf sees shows low air entering the engine below 14.6-1 ratio, this info can result in the injectors taking away fuel because of low oxygen being metered into the engine. Hope this makes sense..
#189
Quantico you are most correct....once someone has a understanding they are a VERY good mechanic and can diagnose many issues...
#190
My friend,if your familiar with ids sdd or any of the 6000.00-12000.OO PLATFORMS USED AT DEALERSHIPS ..such as Autologic,Scientech iscan 2,or Bosch 340 series,or Launch x431 master series,or Autel Maxysis,or Carman series, or G scan units they will show these codes,NOT SAY YOUR OXYGEN SENSOR IS BAD ,but as once stated your untrained and you have absolutely no clue what the data would be saying if you had a real scanner OR even know how to test it for that matter. .Ex. Say you have good fuel pressure,spark,air,inertia switch function,you have new coils,you have good voltage but car cranks,no start,what would you do??You have no codes,what is the issue??One can read all the data and PDF crap they wish but in the real world of fixing **** it means nothing most of the time...theories and suppose to be fixes.Both cam sensors are switching,refer to your PDF ...Or say your x350 xj will crank,you have no codes,no fuel issues,good spark,ecu is good,all pid values are good,but car wont start but cranks..what do you do??You have no clue but you will call dealership,or run to forum for answers .Buddy I have fixed cars like this and even worse....My point to you is dont ever attack someone with experience because you lack knowledge and understanding. I usually dont even post or waste time on the forums because of silly *** people.My dad always said "A hard head makes a soft *** " so go ahead and think what you wish.I do not throw parts at **** guessing,wondering,hoping I get it right,praying that the insight fairy will grant the answer to my issues with my car.I OWN OVER 60K in equipment and tools and isnt a thing I can't do on a s type r,xjr,x type and MANY other jags...IF ANYONE ON THIS FORUM WOULD LIKE TO GET HELP FEEL FREE TO PRIVATE EMAIL ME LIKE SO MANY OTHERS ALREADY DO..Until next time happy wrenching..912GUY is out fellas...lol
Last edited by 912guy; 07-22-2015 at 04:09 PM.
#191
#192
Be very careful here.
Code P1646 and P1647 are O2 sensor heater failure codes.
These are from either a bad O2 sensor (About 99% of the time this is the reason) or you have a wiring problem preventing the heaters from working.
These heaters are internal to the O2 sensor and are on 30A circuits because they take a surprising amount of current to heat the O2 element.
The O2 sensors DO NOT determine how long the injector stays open. The ECM does that based on far more than just the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensors are just one in a series of inputs used.
.
.
.
Code P1646 and P1647 are O2 sensor heater failure codes.
These are from either a bad O2 sensor (About 99% of the time this is the reason) or you have a wiring problem preventing the heaters from working.
These heaters are internal to the O2 sensor and are on 30A circuits because they take a surprising amount of current to heat the O2 element.
The O2 sensors DO NOT determine how long the injector stays open. The ECM does that based on far more than just the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensors are just one in a series of inputs used.
.
.
.
#193
Be very careful here.
Code P1646 and P1647 are O2 sensor heater failure codes.
These are from either a bad O2 sensor (About 99% of the time this is the reason) or you have a wiring problem preventing the heaters from working.
These heaters are internal to the O2 sensor and are on 30A circuits because they take a surprising amount of current to heat the O2 element.
The O2 sensors DO NOT determine how long the injector stays open. The ECM does that based on far more than just the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensors are just one in a series of inputs used.
.
.
.
Code P1646 and P1647 are O2 sensor heater failure codes.
These are from either a bad O2 sensor (About 99% of the time this is the reason) or you have a wiring problem preventing the heaters from working.
These heaters are internal to the O2 sensor and are on 30A circuits because they take a surprising amount of current to heat the O2 element.
The O2 sensors DO NOT determine how long the injector stays open. The ECM does that based on far more than just the O2 sensor. So the O2 sensors are just one in a series of inputs used.
.
.
.
yes sir it has two heater wires in the upstream and yes they do take a lot of current to go from 0-600 degrees F within seconds this is why all cars at cold start are rich trimmed before the sensor begans to switch between lean and rich...I can go on and on and on... it is useless.. Not here to impress, get a following ,or even act like I know it all as so do many on here that haven't spent thousands of hours working on these cars...but I can assure you that even if you state a fact someone will try to discredit it with a unproven opinion or just call information that is correct CRAP, OR BS. I have low tolerance for stuff like that because anyone in the trade knows that information is always evolving, and technology changes...As stated I rarely even come here anymore just because of the mentality...
The guy says he uses sdd and ids..yes you may do but maybe a cloned version from China...as far as the injectors staying open...well I will have to tell every instructor who has taught this in class that they are liars...and after years of getting this understanding I am wrong and every Master tech I know. To each his own but at the end of the day as long as we all can share info without saying to one another that there post is crap, or garbage then I can read anyones' info without issue. It is called respect...
#194
P0171
That is the problem JagV8. Here in CA, they won’t even allow the car to go through the smog check with P1000 showing. Even though there in no O2S fault code, I replaced both upstream O2S’s (no effect) and will replace the downstream ones too as soon as they arrive. If this does not help, I look at it as part of regular maintenance. In the meantime, I managed to get a Smog Referee appointment for August 7. Until then, I have to go to DMV every day and get daily permits to get on the road.
#195
Hadia; Can you give the list of ready monitors so we know which ones have been set and which ones have not?
There are 5 monitors and most states will allow one or two to not be ready and still allow a smog check. I don't know if you state requires all 5 to be set or not. There are also continuous and non-continuous monitors so that is another layer of fun.
I fought this with my wife's Lincoln LS. As you know every time you clear the codes it resets all 5 readiness monitors. That's why you have a P1000. I too did the published drive cycles and for weeks it just would not set that last readiness monitor. It finally did set and I found out that my problem was (This is still a guess!) I did not let the fuel level get low enough while driving around!
The S type should be the same but might have a different number of things monitored.
So you are not alone and it was a big enough problem that Jaguar issued a TSB with further explanations.
Have you seen this from Jaguar?
Might help.
.
.
.
There are 5 monitors and most states will allow one or two to not be ready and still allow a smog check. I don't know if you state requires all 5 to be set or not. There are also continuous and non-continuous monitors so that is another layer of fun.
I fought this with my wife's Lincoln LS. As you know every time you clear the codes it resets all 5 readiness monitors. That's why you have a P1000. I too did the published drive cycles and for weeks it just would not set that last readiness monitor. It finally did set and I found out that my problem was (This is still a guess!) I did not let the fuel level get low enough while driving around!
The S type should be the same but might have a different number of things monitored.
So you are not alone and it was a big enough problem that Jaguar issued a TSB with further explanations.
Have you seen this from Jaguar?
Might help.
.
.
.
#196
P0171
Here is a recap of whole situation:
Got P0171
(NOTE: A year earlier, I got same error, removed and cleaned MAF without disconnecting battery, code went away, monitors remained ready, all went fine. This time, I made a mistake of disconnecting the battery.)
Cleaned MAF sensor, tighten hoses. I was unable to reset code via scanner or disconnecting battery.
Took it to the shop, they reset the code performed a vacuum test, run it about an hour, no leak found and code did not return either. At this point all monitors were at Not Ready state.
After about 65 miles, most monitors got ready except ECM, OS2 and Comprehensive Status.
After 260 miles, still same. As was suggested by someone in a forum, I warmed up the car, opened the gas cap for a minute, closed it and drove around, ECM and OS2 became ready too. 600 miles later, the required monitor status remains as follow:
Misfire Status = Ready
Fuel Status = Ready
Comprehensive Status = Not Ready
Catalyst Status = Ready
Evaporative Status = Ready
Oxygen Status = Ready
Oxygen Heater Status = Ready
EGR Status = Ready
California allows smog check if the only not ready status is the Evaporative Status because supposedly they are aware that this one takes a long time to set.
Got P0171
(NOTE: A year earlier, I got same error, removed and cleaned MAF without disconnecting battery, code went away, monitors remained ready, all went fine. This time, I made a mistake of disconnecting the battery.)
Cleaned MAF sensor, tighten hoses. I was unable to reset code via scanner or disconnecting battery.
Took it to the shop, they reset the code performed a vacuum test, run it about an hour, no leak found and code did not return either. At this point all monitors were at Not Ready state.
After about 65 miles, most monitors got ready except ECM, OS2 and Comprehensive Status.
After 260 miles, still same. As was suggested by someone in a forum, I warmed up the car, opened the gas cap for a minute, closed it and drove around, ECM and OS2 became ready too. 600 miles later, the required monitor status remains as follow:
Misfire Status = Ready
Fuel Status = Ready
Comprehensive Status = Not Ready
Catalyst Status = Ready
Evaporative Status = Ready
Oxygen Status = Ready
Oxygen Heater Status = Ready
EGR Status = Ready
California allows smog check if the only not ready status is the Evaporative Status because supposedly they are aware that this one takes a long time to set.
#198
Well I am confused because all the monitors are ready but it still won't give you the comprehensive one?
Please let us know how you got it set. If you read the TSB I posted there is a mention of getting the fuel level down to 30% and a warning to not exceed a certain amount of time driving.
Have you followed those instructions?
Maybe a factory tech can guide us here?
Brutal are you out there?
.
.
.
Please let us know how you got it set. If you read the TSB I posted there is a mention of getting the fuel level down to 30% and a warning to not exceed a certain amount of time driving.
Have you followed those instructions?
Maybe a factory tech can guide us here?
Brutal are you out there?
.
.
.
#199
P0171 , Comprehensive Status Monitor not ready
UPDATE: Today I had my Smog Referee appointment. As of today I had driven the car for 750 miles since the engine codes were reset and the comprehensive status monitor still remains at not ready state. I provided all the paper works regarding the tests and what have been done so far for this issue.
They verified everything and ran the smog check and it passed flawlessly (with comprehensive status still not ready). I made one more trip and a 2 hour wait in DMV and finally got my registration sticker.
For this problem I found a few different Drive Cycle instructions on the internet but today I got a more comprehensive Drive Cycle instruction specific for this model from the Smog referee personnel. I am sure it will apply to some other Jaguar models too. I have attached this PDF file here for others to refer to when needed. It is 4 pages long but people can summarize it to their understanding. Thanks everybody who tried to help me with this problem.
They verified everything and ran the smog check and it passed flawlessly (with comprehensive status still not ready). I made one more trip and a 2 hour wait in DMV and finally got my registration sticker.
For this problem I found a few different Drive Cycle instructions on the internet but today I got a more comprehensive Drive Cycle instruction specific for this model from the Smog referee personnel. I am sure it will apply to some other Jaguar models too. I have attached this PDF file here for others to refer to when needed. It is 4 pages long but people can summarize it to their understanding. Thanks everybody who tried to help me with this problem.
#200