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  #21  
Old 11-05-2015, 07:53 PM
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My gut says run another can of BG44K and see what takes place. It cleared one side and may to the same on the second go-around.

Originally Posted by Gus
I would suggest adding a can of BG44K to your fuel tank ans see what takes place first. This fuel additive is a little hard to find but it is the best on the market.
 
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  #22  
Old 11-05-2015, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by OkieTim
I know this sounds crazy, but check your battery. I was getting a series of strange codes when someone suggested that I check the battery. I was getting 11.5 volts across the battery with the engine off. The battery was 5 years old. I replaced the battery, reset the codes, and haven't had a problem since. That was about 2000 miles ago. I cannot explain why a marginally low battery voltage causes the problems.
Good advice. 11.5 volts is not marginal, it's too low. Here's why...
Modern cars are essentially rolling computer systems comprised of multiple computers that constantly receive feedback on the car's performance via electronic sensors attached to the major parts of your car. Analog devices (e.g. a light bulb) will usually work, albeit not at peak performance, even when voltage drops. Digital devices, on the other hand, have very narrow voltage requirements so they either work or, if voltage drops, they don't - in the computer world it's either a 1 or a 0 - on or off. There's no in-between.

Therefore, if the battery's voltage is too low, some of the car's digital devices may temporarily stop working, usually triggering one or more codes and possibly even sending your car into Limp Mode or Restricted Performance.

Don't panic and think you suddenly need thousands of $$ worth of repairs until you have first fully charged your battery. Then troubleshoot. Optimum charge is at least 12.5 volts.

BTW - You may notice this same behavior on your laptop computer...as the battery fades, devices like your DVD player or touchpad might stop working. They aren't broken; there's simply not enough juice to power everything. Recharge the laptop, reboot, and all your computer's devices work again.

I apologize if this explanation seems oversimplified. See the link in my signature for more battery info.
 

Last edited by Jumpin' Jag Flash; 11-06-2015 at 06:42 AM. Reason: typo
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  #23  
Old 11-05-2015, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by QuartzSTypeR
Did you use an OEM MAFS? The three main things that will cause a rich code on both banks are the MAFS, fuel pressure regulator, or coolant temp sensor (which would likely cause another code, but not always).
I did replace the MAF but not with an OEM. I purchased it at the local AutoZone. Could that be a problem?
 
  #24  
Old 11-05-2015, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jumpin' Jag Flash
Good advice. 11.5 volts is not marginal, it's too low. Here's why...
Modern cars are essentially rolling computer systems comprised of multiple computers that constantly receive feedback on the car's performance via electronic sensors attached to the major parts of your car. Analog devices (e.g. a light bulb) will usually work, albeit not at peak performance, even when voltage drops. Digital devices, on the other hand, have very narrow voltage requirements so they either work or, if voltage drops, they don't - in the computer world it's either a 1 or a 0 - on or off. There's no in-between.

Therefore, if the battery's voltage is too low, some of the car's digital devices may temporarily stop working, usually triggering one or more codes and possibly even sending your car into Limp Mode or Restricted Performance.

Don't panic and think you suddenly need thousands of $$ worth of repairs until you have first fully charged your battery. Then troubleshoot. Optimum charge is at least 12.5 volts.

BTW - You'll may notice this same behavior on your laptop computer...as the battery fades, devices like your DVD player or touchpad might stop working. They aren't broken; there's simply not enough juice to power everything. Recharge the laptop, reboot, and all your computer's devices work again.

I apologize if this explanation seems oversimplified. See the link in my signature for more battery info.
Thanks for the input! I did have to replace the battery a few months ago. It was the original battery and was quite old. I started getting crazy problems including a gear box error. I replaced the battery and it all was fixed. That was pretty crazy to me, but your explanation makes total sense.
 
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  #25  
Old 11-05-2015, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by caveforce
I did replace the MAF but not with an OEM. I purchased it at the local AutoZone. Could that be a problem?
Definitely. I replaced a MAFS on an S4 with a rebuilt Autozone unit, and I had the same rich codes as before. After disassembley, the rebuilt unit looked like it was put together with paper clips and a hot glue gun. I got another MAFS and the trouble codes have not come back after several weeks. Not saying that's what happened with your case, but it is a possibility.
 
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  #26  
Old 11-06-2015, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by caveforce

4) Have a look at fuel trims, too. Hot engine, parked, at idle & then rev to about 2500. (The idea is to get more data.)
What are fuel trims and how do I check them?
Google "fuel trims" to read about them. In the meantime, these will get you started with understanding what they are and why they're a valuable diagnostic tool...
 
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Part Two--Using Fuel Trims.pdf (1.02 MB, 512 views)
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Old 11-07-2015, 06:35 AM
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A Bluetooth OBD2 reader and the Torque app cost $35 and will give you a huge amount of real-time information including short and long term fuel trims. The app logs data while driving and emails excel files.


You will be amazed how much information is available
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by QuartzSTypeR
Definitely. I replaced a MAFS on an S4 with a rebuilt Autozone unit, and I had the same rich codes as before. After disassembley, the rebuilt unit looked like it was put together with paper clips and a hot glue gun. I got another MAFS and the trouble codes have not come back after several weeks. Not saying that's what happened with your case, but it is a possibility.
I have a sneaky suspicion that I am having the same problem. I'm going to replace the one I have and see what happens.
 
  #29  
Old 11-09-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jumpin' Jag Flash
Google "fuel trims" to read about them. In the meantime, these will get you started with understanding what they are and why they're a valuable diagnostic tool...
THANKS!!!! I will read up on this!
 
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rocklandjag
A Bluetooth OBD2 reader and the Torque app cost $35 and will give you a huge amount of real-time information including short and long term fuel trims. The app logs data while driving and emails excel files.


You will be amazed how much information is available
THANK YOU!!! I am ordering an OBD2 reader now. Is there an iPhone version of the Torque app? Or can you recommend an iPhone app?
 
  #31  
Old 11-09-2015, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Gus
My gut says run another can of BG44K and see what takes place. It cleared one side and may to the same on the second go-around.
I think you're right. I am going to get another can of the stuff. I guess it can't hurt even if it doesn't solve the problem.
 
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  #32  
Old 11-10-2015, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by caveforce
THANK YOU!!! I am ordering an OBD2 reader now. Is there an iPhone version of the Torque app? Or can you recommend an iPhone app?
Last I checked, Torque wasn't availabe for iPhone, so I use EngineLink HD on both my iPhone & iPad. It too can email. However, this app is designed specifically for LELink (Low Energy Bluetooth) code readers, which apparently is the only type of Bluetooth reader that is compatible with iPhone.

If you didn't buy an LELink reader, then you must use a WiFi reader with an iPhone. Standard Bluetooth readers are incompatible (unless Apple has fixed its OS to accommodate them).

If you get a WiFi code reader, Torque is highly rated. Search the app store and read the user reviews for more info.
 
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  #33  
Old 11-10-2015, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jumpin' Jag Flash
Google "fuel trims" to read about them. In the meantime, these will get you started with understanding what they are and why they're a valuable diagnostic tool...
Thank you for the files 1&2.. several lights came on.. These should be up top there first page with tips etc.. What do you call s "sticky" or something?

Part One--Fuel Trim Primer Rev2.pdf (813.7 KB, 9 views) Part Two--Using Fuel Trims.pdf (1.02 MB, 5 views)
 

Last edited by ZenFly; 11-11-2015 at 09:26 AM.
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  #34  
Old 11-13-2015, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ZenFly
Thank you for the files 1&2.. several lights came on.. These should be up top there first page with tips etc.. What do you call s "sticky" or something?

Part One--Fuel Trim Primer Rev2.pdf (813.7 KB, 9 views) Part Two--Using Fuel Trims.pdf (1.02 MB, 5 views)
I agree ZenFly, this should be a Sticky on the main page.
 
  #35  
Old 11-13-2015, 08:04 PM
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They are on my page if you need them again.
 
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  #36  
Old 11-15-2015, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Gus
My gut says run another can of BG44K and see what takes place. It cleared one side and may to the same on the second go-around.
I bought a can of BG44k but then read that the oil should be changed right after. What is your opinion because I have less than 3,000mi since my last change..
 
  #37  
Old 11-15-2015, 07:26 AM
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I would not be overly concerned about the oil.

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Originally Posted by ZenFly
I bought a can of BG44k but then read that the oil should be changed right after. What is your opinion because I have less than 3,000mi since my last change..
 
  #38  
Old 11-15-2015, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Gus
I would not be overly concerned about the oil.

Gus
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Thanks. I haven't read anywhere that it was mandatory only some reports that the oil was darker after use..
 
  #39  
Old 11-16-2015, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by QuartzSTypeR
Definitely. I replaced a MAFS on an S4 with a rebuilt Autozone unit, and I had the same rich codes as before. After disassembley, the rebuilt unit looked like it was put together with paper clips and a hot glue gun. I got another MAFS and the trouble codes have not come back after several weeks. Not saying that's what happened with your case, but it is a possibility.
Looks like I have the same problem. I received my bluetooth code reader and it pulls up the P0101 code registering a MAF fault. I'll purchase on OEM and hope that solves the problem!
 
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