P0172 and P0175
#21
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My gut says run another can of BG44K and see what takes place. It cleared one side and may to the same on the second go-around.
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caveforce (11-09-2015)
#22
Join Date: Mar 2013
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I know this sounds crazy, but check your battery. I was getting a series of strange codes when someone suggested that I check the battery. I was getting 11.5 volts across the battery with the engine off. The battery was 5 years old. I replaced the battery, reset the codes, and haven't had a problem since. That was about 2000 miles ago. I cannot explain why a marginally low battery voltage causes the problems.
Modern cars are essentially rolling computer systems comprised of multiple computers that constantly receive feedback on the car's performance via electronic sensors attached to the major parts of your car. Analog devices (e.g. a light bulb) will usually work, albeit not at peak performance, even when voltage drops. Digital devices, on the other hand, have very narrow voltage requirements so they either work or, if voltage drops, they don't - in the computer world it's either a 1 or a 0 - on or off. There's no in-between.
Therefore, if the battery's voltage is too low, some of the car's digital devices may temporarily stop working, usually triggering one or more codes and possibly even sending your car into Limp Mode or Restricted Performance.
Don't panic and think you suddenly need thousands of $$ worth of repairs until you have first fully charged your battery. Then troubleshoot. Optimum charge is at least 12.5 volts.
BTW - You may notice this same behavior on your laptop computer...as the battery fades, devices like your DVD player or touchpad might stop working. They aren't broken; there's simply not enough juice to power everything. Recharge the laptop, reboot, and all your computer's devices work again.
I apologize if this explanation seems oversimplified. See the link in my signature for more battery info.
Last edited by Jumpin' Jag Flash; 11-06-2015 at 06:42 AM. Reason: typo
#23
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I did replace the MAF but not with an OEM. I purchased it at the local AutoZone. Could that be a problem?
#24
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Good advice. 11.5 volts is not marginal, it's too low. Here's why...
Modern cars are essentially rolling computer systems comprised of multiple computers that constantly receive feedback on the car's performance via electronic sensors attached to the major parts of your car. Analog devices (e.g. a light bulb) will usually work, albeit not at peak performance, even when voltage drops. Digital devices, on the other hand, have very narrow voltage requirements so they either work or, if voltage drops, they don't - in the computer world it's either a 1 or a 0 - on or off. There's no in-between.
Therefore, if the battery's voltage is too low, some of the car's digital devices may temporarily stop working, usually triggering one or more codes and possibly even sending your car into Limp Mode or Restricted Performance.
Don't panic and think you suddenly need thousands of $$ worth of repairs until you have first fully charged your battery. Then troubleshoot. Optimum charge is at least 12.5 volts.
BTW - You'll may notice this same behavior on your laptop computer...as the battery fades, devices like your DVD player or touchpad might stop working. They aren't broken; there's simply not enough juice to power everything. Recharge the laptop, reboot, and all your computer's devices work again.
I apologize if this explanation seems oversimplified. See the link in my signature for more battery info.
Modern cars are essentially rolling computer systems comprised of multiple computers that constantly receive feedback on the car's performance via electronic sensors attached to the major parts of your car. Analog devices (e.g. a light bulb) will usually work, albeit not at peak performance, even when voltage drops. Digital devices, on the other hand, have very narrow voltage requirements so they either work or, if voltage drops, they don't - in the computer world it's either a 1 or a 0 - on or off. There's no in-between.
Therefore, if the battery's voltage is too low, some of the car's digital devices may temporarily stop working, usually triggering one or more codes and possibly even sending your car into Limp Mode or Restricted Performance.
Don't panic and think you suddenly need thousands of $$ worth of repairs until you have first fully charged your battery. Then troubleshoot. Optimum charge is at least 12.5 volts.
BTW - You'll may notice this same behavior on your laptop computer...as the battery fades, devices like your DVD player or touchpad might stop working. They aren't broken; there's simply not enough juice to power everything. Recharge the laptop, reboot, and all your computer's devices work again.
I apologize if this explanation seems oversimplified. See the link in my signature for more battery info.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (11-06-2015)
#25
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Definitely. I replaced a MAFS on an S4 with a rebuilt Autozone unit, and I had the same rich codes as before. After disassembley, the rebuilt unit looked like it was put together with paper clips and a hot glue gun. I got another MAFS and the trouble codes have not come back after several weeks. Not saying that's what happened with your case, but it is a possibility.
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caveforce (11-09-2015)
#26
Join Date: Mar 2013
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Google "fuel trims" to read about them. In the meantime, these will get you started with understanding what they are and why they're a valuable diagnostic tool...
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caveforce (11-09-2015)
#28
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Definitely. I replaced a MAFS on an S4 with a rebuilt Autozone unit, and I had the same rich codes as before. After disassembley, the rebuilt unit looked like it was put together with paper clips and a hot glue gun. I got another MAFS and the trouble codes have not come back after several weeks. Not saying that's what happened with your case, but it is a possibility.
#29
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (11-10-2015)
#30
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THANK YOU!!! I am ordering an OBD2 reader now. Is there an iPhone version of the Torque app? Or can you recommend an iPhone app?
#32
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Pawleys Island, SC USA (formerly from Tabernacle, NJ USA)
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If you didn't buy an LELink reader, then you must use a WiFi reader with an iPhone. Standard Bluetooth readers are incompatible (unless Apple has fixed its OS to accommodate them).
If you get a WiFi code reader, Torque is highly rated. Search the app store and read the user reviews for more info.
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caveforce (11-13-2015)
#33
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/kirsch/attach/pdf.gif)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/kirsch/attach/pdf.gif)
Last edited by ZenFly; 11-11-2015 at 09:26 AM.
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (11-11-2015)
#34
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Thank you for the files 1&2.. several lights came on.. These should be up top there first page with tips etc.. What do you call s "sticky" or something?
Part One--Fuel Trim Primer Rev2.pdf (813.7 KB, 9 views)
Part Two--Using Fuel Trims.pdf (1.02 MB, 5 views)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/kirsch/attach/pdf.gif)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/kirsch/attach/pdf.gif)
#35
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Jumpin' Jag Flash (11-15-2015)
#37
#38
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I would not be overly concerned about the oil.
Gus
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Gus
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
#39
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Definitely. I replaced a MAFS on an S4 with a rebuilt Autozone unit, and I had the same rich codes as before. After disassembley, the rebuilt unit looked like it was put together with paper clips and a hot glue gun. I got another MAFS and the trouble codes have not come back after several weeks. Not saying that's what happened with your case, but it is a possibility.
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