When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i just installed a cold air intake on my 2006 jaguar s-type base 3.0L v6. the car idles fine. but i also installed a new maf i bought off eBay. i new had the code p0175 pop up till after i finished the install. code came up immediately. on pending . the after 5 miles it came on as check engine and engine went to restricted performance. erased code, went back to garage witch is 5 miles away. just kept on as pending. took off the new maf sensor and put in the stock one. i also cleaned the OEM MAF with MAF cleaner. then swapped it out. this time i took off the negative terminal. put the old maf in after i cleaned it. and started car. the code p0175 popped up again but as pending. ran the car idle for 5 minutes then erased codes. the p0175 didn't come back on as pending. so my question is the new maf i bought from china make that code pop up. i thought it was the new intake. i made Sure their were no leaks on the new intake. but i drove 5 to 6 miles and code never popped up again with the p0175 on pending. what's your guys thoughts? ill start it tomorrow take it for a drive and see if the code pops back on the pending side of the ODB check. But also another question can P0175 turn on restricted performance because it came on after 3 miles driving after it went from pending code to actual check engine code. I got the new MAF sensor off eBay. Said it fits a Lincoln as well.So maybe just a bad OE sensor and the Jaguar is sensitive to where it put the code up. Any thoughts? need reply's asap. Thanks GUYS!
thats a bit strange . the parts you just swapped are feeding and metering both banks .
but you only have a code for bank two rich .
learned the hard way also . never trust non oem sensors on the jag .
it can end in frustration .
i just drove around for 1 mile. no p0175 code now. I believe it might be a faulty sensor, especially that it was not a OEM sensor and the Jaguars seem sensitive to that. regardless I used MAF cleaner on the old OEM MAF sensor and put it in. no pending p0175, for 7.8 miles as compared to it popping up instantly. just floored it to 80mph on the 1.8 mile drive. still no pending code even. but my question is why did the p0175 code turn on restricted performace.????
Not sure what your situation is exactly but let me share my experience with installing a new MAF as well as a Cold Air Ram system on my 03 STR a few years ago. Here you go. I too had similar issues. After more than one or two unhappy conversations with the mirror and more that exchanging, installing, and being very (restricted performance) disappointed with each and every 'aftermarket' MAF I finely 'bit the bullet' and bought the/a OEM Jaguar MAF and yes, that solved all the problems. The same problems you seem to be having. As to the Cold Air Ram system......Whew!!! When the MAF problem was solved my STR was like a beast unleashed! The Cold Air Ram System really made a HUGE DIFFERENCE! Just loved it. Yes, every other year I'd take the 20 min to swap out the Cold Air for the OEM box to pass the Cal. smog requirements and then re install as soon as I could get back to my shop. Eh.....so what?!
Bottom line: My suspicion is the problem lies in your MAF if it's not a real OEM Jaguar part as I've 'traveled that road'
Bet to you,
Current:
2000 S Type 3.0L
Past:
2003 STR
1957 XK140 DHC
No it’s not it has the Mina heat partition .
and the pod is segregated from the heat .
though I will advise sealing the partition with radiator foam as I have so no heat leaks across.
[QUOTE=JagV8;229693The car is cold intake from new.[/QUOTE]
yes but restricted flow in comparison to the pod .
also the stock box suppresses some if not most of the cool broom broom sounds.
there are advantages to GOOD aftermarket intake set ups .
i will never put mine back to stock .
Ha ha , that broom broom sound does sound twice as good as a stock jaguar air box admit it .
Plus mines a V8 broom . That’s the attraction. Just Betterer LOL
Old MAF sensor fixed the problem!!!!! no more codes! beware of eBay maf sensors! the one I put in brought up the P0175 code! I'm in the process of returning it now!
When it comes to O2 sensors, MAF, spark plugs, coil packs, and others, I always go OEM. OEM always works. whereas I have had NO LUCK with aftermarket parts. they are always slightly off
So I have experience tuning. And specifically tuning the "MAF transfer function".
There are several things to know,
1) The sensor is specifically designed and manufactured to match the math in the (factory) tune. (this is why aftermarket sensors don't work sometimes. Because they don't have access to the OEM MAF transfer function)
2) The I.D. of the tube its in needs to be 100% the same as stock or the MAF transfer function needs to be adjusted in the tune. You cannot change one w/o effecting the other. Simply... the physical parts match the math. Change one and the reported MASS to the computer will be wrong.. and so will be the computers commanded output for timing and fuel..
I've seen MAF transfer functions that when corrected only 2% can make an engine idle better, get better MPG, and have better throttle response.
When I tune an engine.. this is Step #1.
To make this simple.... your stock MAF is more than adequate to measure incoming air on a stock engine. You generally need to increase power about 30%+ before you start to max out the MAF. And even then it only flatlines at the very top of the RPM (which I have personally done on SC engines). It will gain you nothing but headaches to change it.
What you can get gains from are using a conical filter that pulls in cold air.
My advice... go back to a stock MAF housing / module and change the filter / air path upstream of it. Conical filters create laminar air flow which smooths pressure gradients at the throat and helps to fill the round tube uniformly. And cooler air is denser air. The MAF reports the MASS passing it and the computer will accommodate w/o needing anything else.
Also, so many people freak out over oiled filters... don't worry about it. Just use electrical contact cleaner and a Q-tip to clean the MAF wires from time to time.
Personally when I do a project like this I add a "outerwears" prefilter too.
Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 10-14-2020 at 05:52 AM.
So I have experience tuning. And specifically tuning the "MAF transfer function".
There are several things to know,
1) The sensor is specifically designed and manufactured to match the math in the (factory) tune. (this is why aftermarket sensors don't work sometimes. Because they don't have access to the OEM MAF transfer function)
2) The I.D. of the tube its in needs to be 100% the same as stock or the MAF transfer function needs to be adjusted in the tune. You cannot change one w/o effecting the other. Simply... the physical parts match the math. Change one and the reported MASS to the computer will be wrong.. and so will be the computers commanded output for timing and fuel..
I've seen MAF transfer functions that when corrected only 2% can make an engine idle better, get better MPG, and have better throttle response.
When I tune an engine.. this is Step #1.
To make this simple.... your stock MAF is more than adequate to measure incoming air on a stock engine. You generally need to increase power about 30%+ before you start to max out the MAF. And even then it only flatlines at the very top of the RPM (which I have personally done on SC engines). It will gain you nothing but headaches to change it.
What you can get gains from are using a conical filter that pulls in cold air.
My advice... go back to a stock MAF housing / module and change the filter / air path upstream of it. Conical filters create laminar air flow which smooths pressure gradients at the throat and helps to fill the round tube uniformly. And cooler air is denser air. The MAF reports the MASS passing it and the computer will accommodate w/o needing anything else.
Also, so many people freak out over oiled filters... don't worry about it. Just use electrical contact cleaner and a Q-tip to clean the MAF wires from time to time.
Personally when I do a project like this I add a "outerwears" prefilter too.
very nice explanation....i really understand and visualize what you are saying.....and it makes sense without a bunch of numbers to crunch